I love RF MF Focus because ......

[jaapv]

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I find the 35/f2 easier and more forgiving than the 50/f1.4 I own. I've tried pre focusing by numbers, in ft or m, but in the heat of the moment it's easily (for me) to get confused which way to rotate the tab. Unfortunately I don't have the camera at hand to refer to, but from memory if the moveable rectangular image is to the left, the lens needs to rotate towards infinity and vice versa. The confusion comes because the focusing tab is pushed or pulled in the opposite sense to this. How do you reconcile tab rotation in your own brain (anyone)?

Practise, practise, practise. Drive your wife mad by pointing the camera at everything in sight.

[Manoleica]

Practise, practise, practise. Drive your wife mad by pointing the camera at everything in sight.

Temptation Temptation   (The Girlfriend giggled & The wifey slammed the door in my face) - l o l...

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[Michael Geschlecht]

Hello Everybody,

 

1 way to focus on a flat surface of water or on a proverbial white wall is to begin by holding the camera 3 wide by 2 hi.

 

Then rotate the camera/lens counter clockwise 45 degrees.

 

Then focus the lens to where you THINK the point of focus is using the rangefinder rectangles.

 

You do this because when you do, the rectangles are moving up - down & down - up as well as left - right & right - left all at the same time when you are focussing.

 

More operational variables at the same time means more potential anomalies to notice.

 

Then holding the camera rotated 45 degrees counter clockwise wobble the camera a small amount left to right & back as well as up to down & back in order to see what moves & what stays still.

 

There is usually always something there to see move & to see not move. You just have to find it.

 

Adjust focus, if necessary, as needed.

 

When what you want to be in focus stays still when you wobble the camera still rotated 45 degrees counter clockwise, then you are pretty much in focus.

 

A helpful miniature camera rangefinder focusing tip from the 1930's.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

Edited May 17, 2016 by Michael Geschlecht

[Ecaton]

I suppose one of the benefit of AF and a tilting viewfinder with live view is the ability to act stealthily.

 

By the way, have you seen the images 'warrior' Jhon produces (on the street photography sub forum) - how he does it, I'm not too sure, or more to the point what his hit rate is like.

 

The "stealthy" story is for the creepy and sneaky stuff. To capture the moment speed is everything and there is no time to glance at a screen (lcd or EVF) tilted away from the action. Especially not if the camera has to wake up from sleep first (hello Sony a7rII).

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[colonel]

Yes stealthy is to do with speed, in the sense that moments are fleeting.

 

In terms of capture, lets face it, the smaller a silent shutter silent AF camera, like the Fuji X70 or the Sony RX1, will always be the easiest to use for those subtle waist level shots.

 

However waist level works with the M, it just takes practise. The satisfaction is greater. You don't have the issue of the AF locking onto the wrong thing, which has caught be a few times, but you do have the challenge of getting the focus right. Prefocus at a fixed point through the VF is always best, but estimation can also be done and takes practise

 

I challenge myself to do this in close environments when I get the look I am waiting for and have to move fast

 

 

[Steve Ricoh]

@Ecaton: All electronic cameras will catch you out, so I'm assuming 'f8 and be there' using film.

 

What about the transition from frame 36..., a second film camera?

Edited May 18, 2016 by Steve Ricoh

[Ecaton]

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Yes stealthy is to do with speed, in the sense that moments are fleeting.

 

In terms of capture, lets face it, the smaller a silent shutter silent AF camera, like the Fuji X70 or the Sony RX1, will always be the easiest to use for those subtle waist level shots.

 

However waist level works with the M, it just takes practise. The satisfaction is greater. You don't have the issue of the AF locking onto the wrong thing, which has caught be a few times, but you do have the challenge of getting the focus right. Prefocus at a fixed point through the VF is always best, but estimation can also be done and takes practise

 

I challenge myself to do this in close environments when I get the look I am waiting for and have to move fast

 

 

 

Yep, waist level works with the M. M9 & 24mm Elmarit.

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Edited May 18, 2016 by Ecaton

[Echo63]

I find the 35/f2 easier and more forgiving than the 50/f1.4 I own. I've tried pre focusing by numbers, in ft or m, but in the heat of the moment it's easily (for me) to get confused which way to rotate the tab. Unfortunately I don't have the camera at hand to refer to, but from memory if the moveable rectangular image is to the left, the lens needs to rotate towards infinity and vice versa. The confusion comes because the focusing tab is pushed or pulled in the opposite sense to this. How do you reconcile tab rotation in your own brain (anyone)?

I think of it as lens rotation, not pushing or pulling the tab

If the subject is closer than the lens is focused, the RF patch is to the left, and needs to move right to coincide, so rotate the lens clockwise - think of it as the patch being attached to the lens.

 

The split image in Dad's SLR did the same - if the top was to the left and bottom to the right, you turned the focus ring to push them together......

 

 

 

 

 

As for why i love the RF.

Its fast (not as fast as a 1DX though, but i am improving)

Its accurate (providing its calibrated)

It works in low light, down into the "need a tripod" ranges.

You can see stuff entering the frame, before it enters the frame.

[ddbowdoin]

I really struggle with the patch... need to square away zone focusing.

 

I'm not missing the shots completely, but they aren't 100% locked in.

[jmahto]

I really struggle with the patch... need to square away zone focusing.

 

I'm not missing the shots completely, but they aren't 100% locked in.

Not sure if your RF is adjusted properly. Easy to check with LV. If it is adjusted then it is only a matter of practice. When I started using RF then I realized that sometimes my right finger blocks the window and I can't see the patch clearly. Edited May 19, 2016 by jmahto

[ECohen]

I really struggle with the patch... need to square away zone focusing.

 

I'm not missing the shots completely, but they aren't 100% locked in.

 

 

I'm not sure if this applies but I too struggled until I found the correct diopter for my eye.

I went from a +3 to a +4 and the world or the MF rangefinder opened up.

I really love it, for all the reasons mentioned on this thread

Its got easy and now its a pleasure.

 

Using the +3, I didn't realize that was the problem, because I could see the patch just fine.

I thought I needed to practice more or had to find the correct viewing place for my eye.

It slowed me down and required too much thinking.....about the camera to focus

Now I can forget the camera and "focus" on the image.

 

OK I still find I need practice....but now it's fun!

 

I hope you figure it out .....once you solve your issue it should be a snap

Edited May 19, 2016 by ECohen

[Steve Ricoh]

I see the patch ok, it's just the speed of aligning that's the issue for me, having to slow down as the two converge otherwise the things overshoot and I have to reverse direction. At best I'm about 1.5 from infinity (always park it at infinity) to near distance, which is useless for street photography. I know I need to practise more (and I'll do that when I get my camera back).

[jaapv]

Maybe worth reading this, Steve:

 

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/216580-leica-m8-m82-m9-m9p-mm-mtyp240-faqs-questions-with-answers/?p=2464049

[Guest]

Once you have the MF sorted, its fastest for the decisive event. No AF lag nonsense ...

I do agree with the AF lag nonsense. Even if I am using MF M & R lenses now on an SL. The AF lenses have been sold.

[Steve Ricoh]

My prescription is -1 (approx) in both eyes, right eye dominant, and I can focus at infinity and at 2m (and less) without issue. 

I'm using method 1 as my preferred tequnique, and although I was previously aware of methods 2 and 3, they tend to slow me down even more - but having said that method 1 can add delays if I need to search for a line or edge to align.

 

Once I have the camera back  I'll make a concerted effort to use the M and not switch back and forth to AF cameras. It is my experience that AF makes you lazy, almost like a crutch if times get hard with MF. 

[tobey bilek]

I find the 35/f2 easier and more forgiving than the 50/f1.4 I own. I've tried pre focusing by numbers, in ft or m, but in the heat of the moment it's easily (for me) to get confused which way to rotate the tab. Unfortunately I don't have the camera at hand to refer to, but from memory if the moveable rectangular image is to the left, the lens needs to rotate towards infinity and vice versa. The confusion comes because the focusing tab is pushed or pulled in the opposite sense to this. How do you reconcile tab rotation in your own brain (anyone)?

 

Always start from infinity, counterclockwise all the way from rear view.   Then you learn how far to turn by feel based on distance.  Or if time ,  pick a good target and focus one time , do not fiddle. there is one turn only, clockwise.

 

Focus on a river middle by finding focus near and far bank focus,  then set hyper focal left and right on distance scale.  Works every time.

 

Been known to hang a weighted string in a still life or self portrait.

[johnwolf]

I like 50mm but really struggle with focus when street shooting. Life moves too fast. So I find myself pre-focusing and waiting for scenes to develop, which is not always ideal. So different from the way I whip my little GR around. 

 

John 

[colonel]

I like 50mm but really struggle with focus when street shooting. Life moves too fast. So I find myself pre-focusing and waiting for scenes to develop, which is not always ideal. So different from the way I whip my little GR around.

 

John

Which one do you get the best pictures from ?

[Ecaton]

I thought this was about "why I like RF focusing". But I read: "my problems with the patch", "I struggle with this or that...".........

Going shooting, enjoy exchanging what does not work, life is too short....

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Hallo,

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[Joshua Lowe]

I'm always alternating between 35 and 50 depending on what I feel like.  50 is harder to work with on the street but feels more rewarding.  35 is much easier to work with but I'm never quite as happy with the best 35 results vs. the best 50 results.