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Shooting color with MM246


steppenw0lf

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Hello,

 

has anybody tried to produce color fotos with the monochrom by using 3 images with three different filters (RGB) ?

If yes, what are the best filters to use so that the result in the end are colors that match reality ?

Does anybody know what are the specifications for the three color filters ?

Are they identical to the filters used in a Beyer filter ?

 

Thanks for any response.      Stephan

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Hello,

 

has anybody tried to produce color fotos with the monochrom by using 3 images with three different filters (RGB) ?

If yes, what are the best filters to use so that the result in the end are colors that match reality ?

Does anybody know what are the specifications for the three color filters ?

Are they identical to the filters used in a Beyer filter ?

 

Thanks for any response.      Stephan

 

 

This was one of the first things I did when I bought my Monochrom in 2012. I did plan to do more of it but never got around to doing so. I bought three cheap filters off eBay in the largest filter size I could find so that I could swap between the filters quickly and easily without mounting them on the lens (screwing filters in and out would take too long and risk introducing camera shake). Even with this technique you can see that any subject movement (clouds or things blowing in the breeze) introduces colour registration differences. I also experimented with changing exposure between shots to account for the different filter factors of the three filters but I can't remember now what I concluded. It's an interesting and fun idea to play around with.

 

8094141535_d00ee9138f_b.jpg

 
 
8094141995_31eba7196f_b.jpg
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9252184660_de026a4206_z_d.jpg

 

This is one I did with the MM. I just used an ordinary red and green filter and a blue colour correction filter I had (can't remember which one).

 

You need to be quick because anything that moves comes out as one of the primary colours, but the technique would be interesting for still life.

 

 

 

Steve

 

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Just to expand on the above post. Ideally you need large diameter filters or gel filters because you have to hold them in front of the lens. If you screw them on you will move the camera. Make all the exposures the same, or as near as possible. In a perfect world you would use manual exposure, but again you don't want to touch the camera except for the cable release, so work quickly and let the auto metering sort out the filter factor for you. Don't walk around the tripod between exposures, it will move.

 

 

Steve

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Hello,

 

sorry to ask again, but does anybody know anything about the specifications for these filters ?

I think Red Green and Blue is simply not precise enough. How can I make sure that the three filters are well suited - for example that they will add up to white for white objects ? That they have the same density ? And so on ...

Do you know if sets of filters can be bought that explicitly have this property ?

Could there be alternative sets ?

 

Thanks.          Stephan

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You simply need to register the difference in tone that a filter produces on three images, the rest, the intensity and colour brightness can be adjusted in Photoshop. I have no doubt there is a perfect set of three filters if you were doing this technique with film, but you aren't. So for the record I dug out the three I used, they are Red Nikon R60 (mid red), Green Nikon XO (mid green), Blue an 80b (mid blue). As Ian has already said, a cheap set from Ebay is fine, just make sure they are a much larger diameter than the front element of your lens (in an ideal world buy them to fit any other camera you have that needs a large diameter filter).

 

 

Steve

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I've done this recently. If someone is interested I have originals in my blog.

 

 

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I love how the clouds turned out actually. Very interesting effect. When I did mine - I had to import everything to PS and shift the layers until they aligned perfectly. True that all the moving things mess up the registration. What I want to try is shooting very long exposures with like a 10 stop ND. I think this will partially solve the color registration problem.

 

 

 

 

This was one of the first things I did when I bought my Monochrom in 2012. I did plan to do more of it but never got around to doing so. I bought three cheap filters off eBay in the largest filter size I could find so that I could swap between the filters quickly and easily without mounting them on the lens (screwing filters in and out would take too long and risk introducing camera shake). Even with this technique you can see that any subject movement (clouds or things blowing in the breeze) introduces colour registration differences. I also experimented with changing exposure between shots to account for the different filter factors of the three filters but I can't remember now what I concluded. It's an interesting and fun idea to play around with.

 

8094141535_d00ee9138f_b.jpg

 
 
8094141995_31eba7196f_b.jpg

 

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  • 1 year later...

All digital camera sensors register luminance only.  The Red, Blue, and Green (RGB) color filters in the Bayer Color Array of color digital cameras are used to create the color information.  This is done by comparing the luminance data from adjacent pixels that was captured after passing through each different color in the Bayer Array.  To get a color image from a Monochrom body one must take three images, each one with a different Red, Blue, and Green filter on the lens.  These images are then brought into Photoshop and placed into the appropriate color channel of a single image. This effectively duplicates the Bayer Array processing in a color body.  One of the biggest shortcomings is that since the three images are taken at different times - anything in motion, like clouds, will not perfectly align with the other images and will have red-blue-green fringes where the images don't overlap.

Edited by Luke_Miller
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