Bamajr711 Posted November 24, 2015 Share #1 Posted November 24, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) Is anyone else having auto WB issues? I was able to correct it with the gray card option but in auto it's horrible. Is there a way to fix the auto or is the gray card slot the only option? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted November 24, 2015 Posted November 24, 2015 Hi Bamajr711, Take a look here Auto WB issues. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Manoleica Posted November 24, 2015 Share #2 Posted November 24, 2015 Have you tried a Reset? Then Off, battery out/wait say 3mimutes/then battery In..Turn On.. (Maybe you have a rogue setting)..L Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamajr711 Posted November 24, 2015 Author Share #3 Posted November 24, 2015 I pulled battery out last night to charge for over an hour. Am I supposed to do something different? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
edliu97 Posted November 24, 2015 Share #4 Posted November 24, 2015 I had the same issue and it was horrible when I used it indoor and I needed to calibrate via gray card option everytime. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bencoyote Posted November 24, 2015 Share #5 Posted November 24, 2015 I can't say that I've had problems with my T and AWB. Can you describe a bit more of the problem you're having and what the actual light was like vs what you got? Very mixed light confuses everything including my eyes and filtered or polarized light creates some very odd effects. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamajr711 Posted November 24, 2015 Author Share #6 Posted November 24, 2015 Outdoors cloudy day and the OOC JPEG produces grayish and cool skin tones. Indoors at home under incadesent or fluorescent light is producing very yellow tinted pics. Never had this issue with my X2. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPP1 Posted November 24, 2015 Share #7 Posted November 24, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) Outdoors cloudy day and the OOC JPEG produces grayish and cool skin tones. Indoors at home under incadesent or fluorescent light is producing very yellow tinted pics. Never had this issue with my X2. What lenses are you using? There is a known problem with M lenses with apertures wider than 5.6. Use the flash indoors with a slight adjustment (-2/3) and fixed ISO. It gives excellent results. No problems noted with T lenses and AWB. Jean-Pierre Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamajr711 Posted November 24, 2015 Author Share #8 Posted November 24, 2015 I was using the 18-55 T lens outdoors on a cloudy day Saturday, granted it was cold and windy but the skin tones we ashy and cool. Indoors I was using the 23mm T lens at F2. It was normal incadesent light and they have a very yellowish tint to them. All were taken in JPEG with zero PP. this was not the case with my X2. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted November 24, 2015 Share #9 Posted November 24, 2015 The lens has very little to do with WB. The main problem is that a camera only sees true colours, like any machines. Our eyes and brain correct the colours that we do see to colours that we know we should see. Thus no camera can ever be "natural" under all light circumstances. All camera makers compromise differently, leading to different results in difficult light. The problem with fluorescent lighting is that it has a nasty discontinuous spectrum and will give completely inconsistent result. In this case, using a grey card is an excellent solution, you could also try the "fluorescent" setting on your camera. Fortunately we can go a long way in correcting the raw file in postprocessing although a full correction is usually not possible, due to the missing wavelengths. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamajr711 Posted November 24, 2015 Author Share #10 Posted November 24, 2015 I guess I'm gonna run some more test. I got amazing results using the greycard. I'm gonna have to go and see if it was different before firmware update as well. I don't think it was. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bencoyote Posted November 24, 2015 Share #11 Posted November 24, 2015 One of the things that I learned in Art classes is to objectively (as possible) notice light and shape and color. With photography, if I'm in a "straight photography" mood, I find that I need to turn down my perception's post-processing and notice objectively what I am in fact sensing as opposed to what I perceive, or what I think I'm seeing. For example, in some rooms with odd light I might stop and look at the actual color reflected off of a person's skin and think "that is not 'skin color'" due to the lighting. However, the understanding that we bring into the situation that the material happens to actually be "skin" informs our perception and we understand the color to be skin toned. Cameras operate more at the level of sensation rather than perception. White balance and grey cards help us convert that direct sensation of the CMOS into something that resembles our perception, that is one of the elements of the art that we bring to photography. AWB is just the camera's best guess based upon the color information in the image of how to change that sensation into something resembling what we think we see. I tend to find that when it is "wrong", it usually is because what I think I'm seeing, i.e. what I perceive is different than what I'm actually sensing or that there is some element in the frame that is throwing off the camera's heuristics for determining the WB. In the latter case where the camera is confused, I try to identify the element that is confusing the camera. For example, I really hate it when people have two color temperatures of lights installed in the same room of a house. Crazy pet peeve of mine. So people in the foreground are at one color temperature and people in the background are at another or the color temperature of the flash doesn't match the ambient light (not that I use flash much and I know that I could use a scrap of gel to fix this but I don't often have one handy) Sometimes, when it is impossible like when you have artistic lighting on a stage, I love the opportunity to have no reference point and can make it exactly whatever I want. "You're blue, I don't care it looks more interesting then when you were a reddish tone -- whatever." Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamajr711 Posted November 24, 2015 Author Share #12 Posted November 24, 2015 I understand your point but it would be nice to know that WB would be as good as X2, rx100ii and X-E1. Right now it's just not. I'm going to play some more and do some controlled test and figure this out some more. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPP1 Posted November 24, 2015 Share #13 Posted November 24, 2015 The lens has very little to do with WB. Well, I would agree with that at first glance. But, we are not talking about physics, here. We are talking about a particular software implementation and its behavior, which may include shortcomings, bugs and other issues. From this samples taken under fluorescent light Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! it is obvious that AWB shows a different behavior between M and T lenses. You will find reviews and posts that discuss the M lenses AWB issue. As suggested in my previous post, using the flash clearly solves the problem at wide apertures (silly, because the aim of using a wide aperture is to get rid of the flash and its artifacts). From this samples, its is also obvious that with the T lens the AWB is doing a very good job in those tricky conditions. Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! it is obvious that AWB shows a different behavior between M and T lenses. You will find reviews and posts that discuss the M lenses AWB issue. As suggested in my previous post, using the flash clearly solves the problem at wide apertures (silly, because the aim of using a wide aperture is to get rid of the flash and its artifacts). From this samples, its is also obvious that with the T lens the AWB is doing a very good job in those tricky conditions. ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/253541-auto-wb-issues/?do=findComment&comment=2936336'>More sharing options...
Bamajr711 Posted November 25, 2015 Author Share #14 Posted November 25, 2015 this is what I'm getting with flourecent light in auto white balance.. file:///Users/bamajr711/Desktop/untitled%20folder%202/L1000317.JPG this is using grey card file:///Users/bamajr711/Desktop/untitled%20folder%202/L1000319.JPG this is using 2400 KV file:///Users/bamajr711/Desktop/untitled%20folder%202/L1000320.JPG Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pop Posted November 25, 2015 Share #15 Posted November 25, 2015 How do I upload photos to the forum? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsutserov Posted November 25, 2015 Share #16 Posted November 25, 2015 I did experience what you describe as "grayish and cool skin tones" plus the lack of shadows of gray under AWB. I fixed it with choosing Standard Film mode but moving CONTRAST one gradation to the left and SATURATION one gradation to the right. That took care of everything - the reproduced colors are just they way you see it with the naked eye PLUS there are lots of details in the black/brown areas. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bamajr711 Posted November 25, 2015 Author Share #17 Posted November 25, 2015 Ok, I have mostly fixed the problem. 1) contrast setting was to high in standard film mode 2) the camera really hates mini fluorescent light bulbs nothing I did would correct it other then using a gray card. I ordered an expo disk 2.0, hopefully I'll be able to create a standard setting in the "gray card 1" slot 3) the T once set properly completely out performs both the X-e1 and rx100ii in incadesent light, sunlight and overcast. No flash Thanks for everyone's help! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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