Jump to content

Leica SL Image Thread ...post your examples here ....


thighslapper

Recommended Posts

Budva, Voigt 12mm


 


Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!


  • Like 11
Link to post
Share on other sites

3 blossoms - all with SL and adapted Canon 100 mm Macro (with Novoflex adapter).

 

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

SL, 24-90, available light

32349789_10156321695524650_1914148266765

 

 

I like your picture. 

 

The headlights from the car in the backdrop provided the rim light to lift your subject and you have ambient light from the right of camera to partially light your subject.

 

I would throw a OCF from the camera left to bring the illumination of your subject by one half to two stops. A contrast between your subject and background will bring the attention of viewer rignt to your subject. We all love the micro contrast property of Leica glass as it pops images with great contrast. Adding light from off camera creates the same effect. So when you add light to your subject, you add contrast in the pics,....just my humble opinion :)

Edited by sillbeers15
Link to post
Share on other sites

I like your picture. 

 

The headlights from the car in the backdrop provided the rim light to lift your subject and you have ambient light from the right of camera to partially light your subject.

 

I would throw a OCF from the camera left to bring the illumination of your subject by one half to two stops. A contrast between your subject and background will bring the attention of viewer rignt to your subject. We all love the micro contrast property of Leica glass as it pops images with great contrast. Adding light from off camera creates the same effect. So when you add light to your subject, you add contrast in the pics,....just my humble opinion :)

 

OCF in the rain? What a great idea :D

Link to post
Share on other sites

Lighting up a snowing & raining night scene has very dramatic effect!

 

 José María Jáuregui

 

Have you ever seen a portable generator exploding? :)

 

Actually, I have a few shots taken in very inclement weather with studio flashes. It is not that hard, but requires an assistant for every flash head used. The generator is waterproofed with two plastic bags and can be left alone. Assistants hold light stands and make sure plastic bags are wrapped around the flash heads. A producer gets to hold an umbrella to protect the camera.

 

This time around  the crew consisted of me, myself and I. That being said... it was my decision to go light.

 

885682_10153357249194650_646106249818113

  • Like 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you ever seen a portable generator exploding? :)

 

Actually, I have a few shots taken in very inclement weather with studio flashes. It is not that hard, but requires an assistant for every flash head used. The generator is waterproofed with two plastic bags and can be left alone. Assistants hold light stands and make sure plastic bags are wrapped around the flash heads. A producer gets to hold an umbrella to protect the camera.

 

This time around  the crew consisted of me, myself and I. That being said... it was my decision to go light.

 

885682_10153357249194650_646106249818113

 

OK so this is a totally different subject on lighting gears rather than on creating images.

 

I'm no working pro and therefore I can accept certain level of performance limitation on lighting gear against bulk. Now again we are not talking a few kg difference of 2 lenses vs 5 lenses weight but more differentiation on weight between light portable flashes against powerful strobes with portable power sources, reflectors/light boxes & stands.

 

As for me, I see the important element to add light appropriately into images and photography is all about light, not all times the ambient light works to our favours plus adding light lets the photographer decide to where in the image he wishes to separate the contrast and lead the viewer's attantion to in the image created.

 

My choice of concern is how can I bring portable lighting to the location of shoot very often on a international travel?

So my requirements are light, less bulk and can allow me to carry up into flight cabin.

Large strobes + reflectors/ light boxes / umbrellas are out for me.

I strated looking into foldable reflectors/lightboxe such as Sundisk. I also look into versatile & compact light modifiers offered from Magmod.

Lastly, I have been dying to get my hands on Leica SFC1 commander + few SF60s ( waiting for Leica to announce availability) to complete the picture.

Link to post
Share on other sites

OK so this is a totally different subject on lighting gears rather than on creating images.

 

I'm no working pro and therefore I can accept certain level of performance limitation on lighting gear against bulk. Now again we are not talking a few kg difference of 2 lenses vs 5 lenses weight but more differentiation on weight between light portable flashes against powerful strobes with portable power sources, reflectors/light boxes & stands.

 

As for me, I see the important element to add light appropriately into images and photography is all about light, not all times the ambient light works to our favours plus adding light lets the photographer decide to where in the image he wishes to separate the contrast and lead the viewer's attantion to in the image created.

 

My choice of concern is how can I bring portable lighting to the location of shoot very often on a international travel?

So my requirements are light, less bulk and can allow me to carry up into flight cabin.

Large strobes + reflectors/ light boxes / umbrellas are out for me.

I strated looking into foldable reflectors/lightboxe such as Sundisk. I also look into versatile & compact light modifiers offered from Magmod.

Lastly, I have been dying to get my hands on Leica SFC1 commander + few SF60s ( waiting for Leica to announce availability) to complete the picture.

 

If you want soft and contrasty lighting, there is no way around large light modifiers. Believe me, SF60 won't save you if you do not bounce it from a 5' umbrella, or at least a folding reflector. In any case, you will need to have some way of securing your lighting in place, which means at least one light stand, or an assistant.

 

SFC1 commander is an utterly unnecessary accessory, just as a TTL flash. Any flash in auto mode will do the trick, and it can be triggered by a pair of good old PocketWizards.

 

Now, about ambient light. In my humble experience of shooting professionally in 17 countries in a course of the past 12 years, ambient light is perfectly fine in 95% cases, and the rest 5% can be added with a flash light, or a cell phone.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

If you want soft and contrasty lighting, there is no way around large light modifiers. Believe me, SF60 won't save you if you do not bounce it from a 5' umbrella, or at least a folding reflector. In any case, you will need to have some way of securing your lighting in place, which means at least one light stand, or an assistant.

 

SFC1 commander is an utterly unnecessary accessory, just as a TTL flash. Any flash in auto mode will do the trick, and it can be triggered by a pair of good old PocketWizards.

 

Now, about ambient light. In my humble experience of shooting professionally in 17 countries in a course of the past 12 years, ambient light is perfectly fine in 95% cases, and the rest 5% can be added with a flash light, or a cell phone.

 

Yes. With your experience, you've made good point.

For what I'm looking at will be 70-90% ambient light and just the additional 10-30% fill to take care of unwanted shadows or suppress the background exposure. And because of that HSS becomes necessary for me. Cannot do HSS w/o TTL today. My current way is to use a extension cord on my SF58 (light & compact to traveller) set on TTL with 1.5 to 2 stops down while camera setting on Manual. The set up works for me. With the commander SFC1, I can shoot further away with my 16-35mm @ 16mm, set a stand with SF60 + magmod sphere/grid to throw light at my subject (with Magbeam if further distance is required). I'll need soft light (plus another fill light from opposite) with head shots or half-full length portrait shoots. For that I utilise my Sundisk foldable reflector, either on a stand or my 1.6m boom stick on my left hand. Not necessary to have big reflectors all the time, else the Profoto A1 must be a con job on Pro photographers.

 

Below pics taken from Nissin site:

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by sillbeers15
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Web - with SL and Canon 100mm Macro

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes. With your experience, you've made good point.

For what I'm looking at will be 70-90% ambient light and just the additional 10-30% fill to take care of unwanted shadows or suppress the background exposure. And because of that HSS becomes necessary for me. Cannot do HSS w/o TTL today. My current way is to use a extension cord on my SF58 (light & compact to traveller) set on TTL with 1.5 to 2 stops down while camera setting on Manual. The set up works for me. With the commander SFC1, I can shoot further away with my 16-35mm @ 16mm, set a stand with SF60 + magmod sphere/grid to throw light at my subject (with Magbeam if further distance is required). I'll need soft light (plus another fill light from opposite) with head shots or half-full length portrait shoots. For that I utilise my Sundisk foldable reflector, either on a stand or my 1.6m boom stick on my left hand. Not necessary to have big reflectors all the time, else the Profoto A1 must be a con job on Pro photographers.

 

Below pics taken from Nissin site:

 

attachicon.gifrev_nissin_air1_02-550x366 2.jpg

 

attachicon.gifrev_nissin_air1_05-412x550.jpg

 

Do you see the hard shadow cast by the forearm? That's the reason why point light sources require extreme care.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

SL+24-90mm with 6-stop ND filter. Long exposure (12min). King's Beach, Rhode Island.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

Newport Rhode Island - Pell Bridge in the background.

SL+90-280mm, f/22, 119mm, 20 min exposure, ISO 50.

Really bright sunstars in the image.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

  • Like 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

Architecture in abstraction - SL and 24/90.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...