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Long exposures with M(240)


mmx_2

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Hi guys

 

I was out the other day taking pictures of Northern Ligths in the north of Sweden and I wanted to make a selfie (I had the camera on a small Leica tripod and used the self-timer). The problem is that the M(240) can only do 8 secs long exposures in combination with the self timer, meaning that I had to push up the ISO a bit to get correct exposures. So now I wonder, has anyone a good suggestion for longer exposures that can be truly "remote controlled"? I tried the B-mode and a cable release that holds the shutter release button in but that only gave me 1/45s of exposure time in combination with the self timer :(. Without self timer the B-mode worked perfect with the cable release but then I couldn't pose in the picture :)

 

The picture turned out quite ok anyway:

 

22395133341_84e19d6dee_b_d.jpg

 

But it is taken with Elmar 24mm at f3.8 8s exposure and ISO1600. I would have prefered maybe 30s and 400ISO to reduce the noise further.

Edited by mmx_2
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Daryl

The camera will terminate the exposure at a max of 60 sec regardless, as it does

at 240 sec for the M9

Regards

Mark

60 seconds max, 30 seconds @ iso 400. As set with cable release locked and set to continuous the camera will repeatedly shoot 30 second exposures until either the cable is unlocked or the battery runs out, this is how astrophotography can be done with the m240.

However limited, it's simplicity is advantageous and can be used for star trails and milky way images.

Edited by darylgo
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60 seconds max, 30 seconds @ iso 400. As set with cable release locked and set to continuous the camera will repeatedly shoot 30 second exposures until either the cable is unlocked or the battery runs out, this is how astrophotography can be done with the m240.

However limited, it's simplicity is advantageous and can be used for star trails and milky way images.

 

Which cable release would you recommend?

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Which cable release would you recommend?

For exposures longer than a few seconds most traditional screw type cables should be fine, however if exposures are in the shorter ranges such as 1/8 second then a long cable that can be wrapped around the tripod is best, this prevents the cable from swinging freely and moving the camera during those short exposures.  Linhof makes some nice long releases with the T lock: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/31077-REG/Linhof_002434_Heavy_Duty_Cable_Release.html

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I tried it just now. In C mode with locked cable release it locks on the exposure (shutter speed in sec) and keeps clicking it even if light condition change. I started when it was not that dark and it got dark afterwords but it kept clicking with same shutterspeed causing underexposure when it was dark.

 

I can see how it could work with cable release and continuous C mode in clicking multiple pictures if light doesn't change and it is dark but it is just a poor man's solution since there is no control on shutterspeed.

 

For me a better solution is to pick up $50 Canon P&S, install CHDK and turn it into super timelapse cam. The raw output of Canon P&S is good enough after careful LR processing and works beautiful for timelapse of star trail kind of pics. 

 

Note: I am not complaining that M240 can't do this while a $50 used P&S can do this. I love my M but it is just not meant do do this. I don't believe in one cam do it all.

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60 seconds max, 30 seconds @ iso 400. As set with cable release locked and set to continuous the camera will repeatedly shoot 30 second exposures until either the cable is unlocked or the battery runs out, this is how astrophotography can be done with the m240.

However limited, it's simplicity is advantageous and can be used for star trails and milky way images.

Thanks for the tip. This is what I got with ISO400, f5.6 (since exposure was too bright), 16sec (using auto shutter, camera chose 16sec), C mode with cable release locked for 1 hr 10 min and 135 shots. Processed using LR (for color temp to 2800K) and stacked using StarStaX. Results is not too shabby!!

 

The dark frame subtraction routine does create gaps in the streaks but not too bad compared to what I get from my Sony and Canon where I am able to switch off dark frames. 

 

Conclusion: M240 is perfectly fine for shooting star trails if I am stuck with only this camera. This is not my preference though since I hate locking my M for extended period and not being able to take some other pics during the time. That's why I have lesser cameras doing this dirty job. :)

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The following Milky way pic

 

https://flic.kr/p/yAeUKL

 

was taken with 10sec-self-timer, Bulb mode, auto ISO with max 800 and lens wide open (28cron at f/2). The camera kept the shutter open for 60 sec.

 

This was a surprise to me since at ISO 800 the max shutter speed is supposed to be much less. I have repeated the above process and I can get 60 sec with ISO 800 in my camera consistently.

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It seems to me that if one wants crystal clear stars, rather than star trails from a relatively short exposure, with the M one needs a Summilux. However fortunately Leica has a good range of wide Summiluxs like the 21mm.

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It seems to me that if one wants crystal clear stars, rather than star trails from a relatively short exposure, with the M one needs a Summilux. However fortunately Leica has a good range of wide Summiluxs like the 21mm.

You don't need summilux. I have tried 28 cron with 60 sec exposure with acceptable results. If one wanted point stars (instead of streak) then simply cut the exposure to 30sec with 28mm and you are almost there.

 

See below for 28mm cron ASPH and 60sec exposure.

 

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/249961-if-mars-had-ocean/

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It seems to me that if one wants crystal clear stars, rather than star trails from a relatively short exposure, with the M one needs a Summilux. However fortunately Leica has a good range of wide Summiluxs like the 21mm.

I tried the 21mm Summilux for stars however at f1.4 coma is quite evident, f2 is a substantial enough improvement to be usable.  Perhaps in post the coma can be  lessened, but it is so pervasive and could be too labor intensive.  

 

Thanks for posting this. Actually I never thought of using my M for long exposures. My 810 will do at least 30 minutes (longest I've tried) - unfortunately followed by the same amount of dark frame (bring wine)!

Nikon, Canon and Sony (7s) are better suited for long exposure (especially astrophotography),  I set my Canon 7D to shoot one area of the sky, meanwhile the Leica M240 shoots another.   I believe the Nikon dark frame can be turned off, iirc Long Exposure Noise Reduction in the menu.  

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It seems to me that if one wants crystal clear stars, rather than star trails from a relatively short exposure, with the M one needs a Summilux. However fortunately Leica has a good range of wide Summiluxs like the 21mm.

Not even that cuts it, you can't go 30 seconds at ISO 1,600 on the M240. This is one of a few areas my Nikon's blow the doors off the digi Leicas. And I do star type images as part of my living for a couple of key clients by the way...

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Not even that cuts it, you can't go 30 seconds at ISO 1,600 on the M240. This is one of a few areas my Nikon's blow the doors off the digi Leicas. And I do star type images as part of my living for a couple of key clients by the way...

I have done 60sec with ISO 800 (See my posts above) but I generally agree about Leica being less suitable for this kind of usage ... but (2nd but !!)... it is not as incapable as it is made out to be.

Edited by jmahto
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was taken with 10sec-self-timer, Bulb mode, auto ISO with max 800 and lens wide open (28cron at f/2). The camera kept the shutter open for 60 sec.

 

This was a surprise to me since at ISO 800 the max shutter speed is supposed to be much less.

 

 

this is odd news indeed- I thought I was sure you could only get a 60 sec exposure using base ISO? I assume this trick only works when using AUTO ISO?

Edited by jaques
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