adelie Posted September 27, 2015 Share #1 Posted September 27, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) Here is my workflow. I use a Nikon Coolscan 8000 ED and Silverfast 8.5 Archive Suite. 1. Scan with Silverfast as a 64 bit HDRi tiff file in Silverfast Ai Studio. 2. Open up in Silverfast HDR and apply the infrared Dust and Scratch removal. I do not use any adjustments in Silverfast other than the infrared dust and scratch removal. 3. Process the file as a 48-24 bit 8 bit file and open this file up in Adobe Photoshop Elements 14. 4. Apply Colorperfect plugin and process - this plugin really makes a huge difference being apply to apply a linear gamma - original files in silverfast are very dark and murky. After colorperfect, they are much much brighter when I adjust the black and white points to 0.00. 5. Apply finishing touches in Adobe Photoshop Elements 14. Here is a link to a couple of my images that I scanned with this procedure: https://www.facebook...46&l=9d40c58334 https://www.facebook...38&l=31e3ddaf37 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted September 27, 2015 Posted September 27, 2015 Hi adelie, Take a look here Scanning Workflow. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
tobey bilek Posted September 27, 2015 Share #2 Posted September 27, 2015 original files in silverfast are very dark and murky. After colorperfect, they are much much brighter when I adjust the black and white points to 0.00. I scan to get a nice histogram centered and properly color balanced . All else is done in ACR or Photoshop. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
A miller Posted September 27, 2015 Share #3 Posted September 27, 2015 I find that if I have to make too many adjustments (really, any at all) to the exposure during the scanning process I am just manipulating a poorly exposed image and I know that I won't get the optimum output. If I expose correctly, the pure auto color and exposure should pick this up, and my only adjustments would conceivably be to slightly increase the brightness to gain slightly more shadow detail. I use vuescan and set my black and white points to 0 and the curve low to .24 and curve high to .75. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted September 28, 2015 Share #4 Posted September 28, 2015 I on the other hand am perplexed why you should use film and then make HDR images from it? HDR trickery is evident in both examples and it just strikes me as odd that you've gone to great lengths with obtaining and then rendering film images just to go full circle back to the status quo offered more efficiently by a digital camera? Why use film if not for the unique qualities of film? Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
adelie Posted September 28, 2015 Author Share #5 Posted September 28, 2015 Sorry HDR is not what you might be thinking - this is what Silverfast calls their archival scanning software - it has absolutely nothing to do with High Dynamic Range as you know it. These images are some 25 years old and I processed these analog images with Silverfast software (I also use Vuescan). I shoot with digital Leicas (X Vario, M). I generally shy away from the so called HDR images - too over the top and garish for my liking. Here is the link to the Silverfast software that I am using: http://www.silverfast.com/show/silverfast-archive-suite/en.html Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philipus Posted October 15, 2015 Share #6 Posted October 15, 2015 Sorry, what does this mean? 3. Process the file as a 48-24 bit 8 bit file Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.