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How to upload images: Prepare the image as follows: 1.   The image should be sRGB and 8-bits 2.   Reduce the size to 2480 pixels on the longest side. (smaller sizes can be set, but are not recommended) 3.   Sharpen properly for screen. 4.   Save as JPG to your desktop, reducing JPG quality to produce 2000 kB (5000 kB for sponsoring members). 5.   In Lightroom these parameters should be set in the Export dialog. 6.   In the Forum posting or editing box, click “c
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ZHNL

ZHNL

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11 minutes ago, Jan1985 said:

Laura . Leica S007 + 70mm Summarit-S

 

I like this portrait. 70mm is my favorite S glass.

Square format, film simulation. I use this to calm down Hasselblad V lust. 

100cron S007

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S007100cron by ZHNL, on Flickr
S007100cron1 by ZHNL, on Flickr
S007100cron2 by ZHNL, on Flickr

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helged
helged

Light from below at 60 deg N. From the Hardanger Fjord, Western Norway. S3 with S70.

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helged
helged

Arctic Ocean next: Midnight at mid summer at the northernmost tip of Norway. S006 + S35mm.

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erlingmm
erlingmm

In HK with S007, 24mm  

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Snap Pilot

Snap Pilot

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Close up of a buddy and fellow photographer. His face muscles definitely made the photo stand out heh

 

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hartgraef

hartgraef

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Lena

S 2 + S 70

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ZHNL

ZHNL

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10 hours ago, hartgraef said:

Lena

S 2 + S 70

That is the lovely familiar S2/S006 color. 

continue square 30-90 S007

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S0072490 by ZHNL, on Flickr

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ZHNL

ZHNL

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70mm Summarit S7

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S0077014-2 by ZHNL, on Flickr

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ZHNL

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70mm Summarit

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S00770 by ZHNL, on Flickr

100cron 

S007100cron1 by ZHNL, on Flickr

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ZHNL

ZHNL

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revisit Square format

120APO S

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S006120-2 by ZHNL, on Flickr

70S
S00670 by ZHNL, on Flickr

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ZHNL

ZHNL

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contax645 140mm Sonnar Leica S

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S006C140 by ZHNL, on Flickr

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Snap Pilot

Snap Pilot

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Miss International Laos 2017 - Mimi 

IG: @mimie_phounsap

Taken with Leica S 007 + 120mm, Natural Light

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Milan_S

Milan_S

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Release day, S3! I was fortunate to beta test the S3.

Wonderful resolution and DR, and the high ISO is outstanding.

 

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djmay

djmay

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S3 example. More examples in my review

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Super-Elmar-S 24

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helged

helged

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S3 (beta) + Novoflex bellow + Contax/Carl Zeiss Makro S-Planar 100mm f4.

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helged

helged

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10 images shot with S3 (beta) in interval mode at ISO800, 16 sec exposure with S24mm@f3.5. Strong Moon light and haze in the air (plus some clouds drifting by); so only the brightest stars are seen. Way better high ISO performance than the SL/SL2, as expected. ISO800 very clean/good.

 

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hartgraef

hartgraef

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Lena

S 2 + S 70 (no beta test ;-) )

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peterv

peterv

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First time at the beach for our new RR puppy 🙂

007/120mm ISO400 f3.4 1/3000

 

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davidmknoble

davidmknoble

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On 3/6/2020 at 11:12 AM, helged said:

10 images shot with S3 (beta) in interval mode at ISO800, 16 sec exposure with S24mm@f3.5. Strong Moon light and haze in the air (plus some clouds drifting by); so only the brightest stars are seen. Way better high ISO performance than the SL/SL2, as expected. ISO800 very clean/good.

Question:  you indicated 10 images, is this a composite, or are you just telling us the ISO800 and long exposure times all came out this well?  Great image, bet you had a great time taking these!

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helged

helged

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2 hours ago, davidmknoble said:

Question:  you indicated 10 images, is this a composite, or are you just telling us the ISO800 and long exposure times all came out this well?  Great image, bet you had a great time taking these!

Hello! The sky is a composite of 10 images, stacked together (and rotated) by the StarryLandscapeStacker. I only got one night with stars with the S3; so this was mostly a test-shot. I recall rather cold and windy weather (-20 deg C or thereabout), no problems for the S3. As expected. But far from comfortable for my fingers...

One problem was to use the otherwise excellent ovf to get the stars in focus. This is quite easy with the Leica SL (turn the EVF magnifier to 5x or 10x and focus on one of the brightest stars). On the S(3), the ovf is simply black at night, and the stars are so small that I found it difficult to focus. I guess there are ways to focus the S in night - and @Stuart Richardson might have a trick based on photographing Icelandic winter scenes? ;) - but I haven't had the opportunity to check this out further (and I don't rely on the infinity-marking on the lens(es)...).  

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davidmknoble

davidmknoble

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9 minutes ago, helged said:

Hello! The sky is a composite of 10 images, stacked together (and rotated) by the StarryLandscapeStacker. I only got one night with stars with the S3; so this was mostly a test-shot. I recall rather cold and windy weather (-20 deg C or thereabout), no problems for the S3. As expected. But far from comfortable for my fingers...

One problem was to use the otherwise excellent ovf to get the stars in focus. This is quite easy with the Leica SL (turn the EVF magnifier to 5x or 10x and focus on one of the brightest stars). On the S(3), the ovf is simply black at night, and the stars are so small that I found it difficult to focus. I guess there are ways to focus the S in night - and @Stuart Richardson might have a trick based on photographing Icelandic winter scenes? ;) - but I haven't had the opportunity to check this out further (and I don't rely on the infinity-marking on the lens(es)...).  

That is a really interesting way to do it with the stacking, and I'm hoping to try more between the S007 and the SL for the milky way.

I have photographed the Aurora with the S007 (not -20 deg C, but probably between 0 and -8 deg c).  One trick I learned on focusing the stars with the S007 is to use live view and zoom in, then manually focus until the starts are spot on, cancelling live view.  If the camera and lens have adapted to the temperature, there shouldn't be much movement from there.  And yes, with all good lenses, infinity has some room for shots such as this, so infinity would have been out of focus.  Really nice shot and technique!  Thanks for sharing!

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Stuart Richardson

Stuart Richardson

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I generally found that the S006 that I use could focus rather accurately on a bright star, the moon, or a bright point in the distance. For closer work I used a very powerful headlamp designed for biking. This can project enough light to focus on most things less than 50-100m away (it is 5000 lumens). I also got familiar with the actual infinity points on my lenses and would check them periodically. I think with a camera with live view, I would do what David describes...magnifying the stars or light points and focusing on them. Indeed, that is what I do with the S1. Peaking generally does not work so well at night due to all the noise in a live view image. 

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hartgraef

hartgraef

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S 2 + S 70 + App Hipstamatic (film simulation D-Type)

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