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Printing using Epson Surecolor P800 & Hahnemühle papers


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Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

Lightroom

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Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

When I changed that to portrait it now looks like this and seems to now be printing correctly

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Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

Thanks again mate for helping me out with this shit.....its 2 in the morning here in KL and I am knackered but want to get at least one print off tonight........

will chat again tomorrow

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Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

Jeff

All seems good now. I have reinstalled the printer drivers and got rid of the AirPrint.. I have successfully printed a color pano and a normal size A2 B&W and I am very very happy with the results.

Thanks again for your help........away to bed now.

 

Neil

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Congrats.  

 

I bet there are still many subtle yet important improvements you can make if you take the time to study and experiment....lots of resources on LR/PS, Epson, and printing in general.  And that's without even getting into different papers, inks, display conditions, etc.

 

And if you experiment, my suggestion is to print small first rather than wasting yards of paper.  

 

Jeff

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  • 2 months later...
Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

Morning guys
I want to print some portfolio style prints to put into a nice leather portfolio binder. The binder size is A3 so I wondering if I could utilize a roll of A2 paper instead of buying more A3 media...............I think it should work in principle but wondered if I am missing something whereas it wouldn't look correct or maybe I should just bite the bullet and buy A3 sheet paper that has a wee bitty more body to it so that it will lay flat in the binder.
The other thing I thought about while writing this note was how do I make nice cut straight edges along the long side.
Anyway any help advice would be much appreciated
Later

  

Neil

 

 

 

 

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When cutting paper like this I use a scalpel and a steel rule.

 

I know it sounds really obvious, but I have tried many things over the years and I still come back to the simplest thing of all. You get absolutely straight edges and no little micro tears along the edge, which you won't necessarily see, but will make the  cut paper edge look 'soft'

 

You have to change the scalpel blade far more often than you think, and a good cutting mat is essential.

 

A couple of proper metal handles and half a dozen packs of (10) scalpel blades and you are done.

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Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

Thanks Bill

Neither of the above I have but that shouldn't be a problem buying them in Malaysia. The other thing I am now thinking about is "punching the holes" it comes with 4 holes and I know there are 4 hole punches that are for sale over the counter but not sure if there is such a thing as an adjustable 4 hole punch

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Hi Neil

I am not aware of any 4 hole punches and if they are available the chances are that the holes will not align with your binder and may not be the right diameter.

One solution to your problem is a "Japanese Push Drill". These hand drills have hollow-point drill bits of various sizes that will work with any size post.

you can make a simple template and acurately punch all your prints for any size binder you care to use. A good drill costs about $70.00 US. One place that

they can be found is... johnnealbooks.com. I print a lot of books and use various binding methods and when i bind using "Chicago Screws" this little device

comes in handy. Most paper punches have a .25 in. diameter hole which is larger than the screw posts The drill has a variety of bits that can accommodate

most post sizes. Hope this helps you

all the best

allan

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Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

Hi Neil

I am not aware of any 4 hole punches and if they are available the chances are that the holes will not align with your binder and may not be the right diameter.

One solution to your problem is a "Japanese Push Drill". These hand drills have hollow-point drill bits of various sizes that will work with any size post.

you can make a simple template and acurately punch all your prints for any size binder you care to use. A good drill costs about $70.00 US. One place that

they can be found is... johnnealbooks.com. I print a lot of books and use various binding methods and when i bind using "Chicago Screws" this little device

comes in handy. Most paper punches have a .25 in. diameter hole which is larger than the screw posts The drill has a variety of bits that can accommodate

most post sizes. Hope this helps you

all the best

allan

Hi Allan

Thanks for the info. I have now decided to go with a A2 Portfolio binder but it will have the same 4 x posts so your method sounds great. I have decided to use precut A2 Fine Art Paper instead of roll paper as like we say in the oilfield "KISS"

Thanks again for the feedback

 

Neil

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Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

Can someone help me with the name of the protection sheets that are used to put in between the prints...............looks like see through rice paper???

Also if someone point me in the right direction on where I could buy the above paper so that I can go and look for some

Thanks

 

Neil

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For interleaving paper, it is a good idea to get paper that has PAT certification (photographic activity test). Buffered paper is fine in the short term but the buffering may run out and allow the acid to re-assert itself, although this is not as important for pigment inkjet prints as it is for dye transfer prints. Lignin in wood based papers is another problem that causes print deterioration. A lot of folk use cotton rag vellum, as that is naturally lignin free and low acid, without buffering. As Philipp says, Peroni Glassine is a good choice and widely available http://www.peroni.co.uk/paper/interleavingarchival/

 

For connecting the printer, I feel that a Cat 5 or 6 Ethernet cable from a router is the best way. Then you can still use wifi from your laptop to the router and be cable free. I have been connecting to my Epson 3880 this way and I get full two way comms. I think the only thing you cannot do via this route is a firmware update, where Epson still recommend a USB cable direct connection. 

 

Wilson

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Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

I WAS going to get the binder done from a guy in the US who offers them for sale in the UK but he is now taking the pi$$ as he still wants the UK price which includes 20% VAT plus shipping shipped in the US.....................I will find someone in Asia that will be able to do it for half the price.

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Guest NEIL-D-WILLIAMS

For interleaving paper, it is a good idea to get paper that has PAT certification (photographic activity test). Buffered paper is fine in the short term but the buffering may run out and allow the acid to re-assert itself, although this is not as important for pigment inkjet prints as it is for dye transfer prints. Lignin in wood based papers is another problem that causes print deterioration. A lot of folk use cotton rag vellum, as that is naturally lignin free and low acid, without buffering. As Philipp says, Peroni Glassine is a good choice and widely available http://www.peroni.co.uk/paper/interleavingarchival/

 

For connecting the printer, I feel that a Cat 5 or 6 Ethernet cable from a router is the best way. Then you can still use wifi from your laptop to the router and be cable free. I have been connecting to my Epson 3880 this way and I get full two way comms. I think the only thing you cannot do via this route is a firmware update, where Epson still recommend a USB cable direct connection. 

 

Wilson

Thanks Wilson I have contacted Peroni and waiting for a reply from them.

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Wouldn't loose sheets in a box be a better way to preserve your prints? I see two problems with a binder - tearing of the holes and folding as the pages are turned. Also, if someone likes a print you can give it to them from the box. The bound sheets will need a large margin at the hole edge. Also rotating an A2 binder between landscape and portrait will be hard work.

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