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    • By rionda
      Is there really a way to distinguish between MOOSP ("15mm extension collar for TELYT 200cm") and FVOOQ ("Extension ring F, 15mm", for use with ZWTOO-ESUM), when they are unmarked?
      I'm asking because I have one of them, and it is unmarked, and I guess it could be either. You can see it in the picture below, 1st from the left. Since it was in a mix with a BOOQZ ("Extension ring B, 7mm") and a GVKOO ("Extension ring G, 30mm", not pictured), I'm going to assume that it is a FVOOQ.
      The 2nd from the left is also unmarked, but it looks (in height and threads (visoflex-to-visoflex)) very similar to the 3rd from the left, which is a BOOQZ (from the "B"). Could it be that? Any other opinion?
      The 4th from the left is completely unmarked. The male is for visoflex, but the female is too large do be either a visoflex or for the lens head of the Hektor 13.5cm 1:4,5 (the only lens head I have) or, I guess, heads of the same size. I do not know what it could be. Any idea?

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    • By LCL999
      I have a rather marvellous 400mm Telyt. It has a male 39mm O.D. thread which is bigger than the standard LTM. The normal way to connect it to an M series camera is to use a 16466 M which provides the matching female thread to a male M bayonet (23mm flange-to-flange), plus a Visoflex I or II which has M-bayonet to M-bayonet to connect to the camera and is 41mm flange-to-flange. The Visoflex houses the reflex mirror plus bits sticking out to set and trigger the mirror.
      Now that I have an SL, I don't need the Visoflex. It would be nice to replace it with a simple 41mm spacer with M-bayonets on each side. i.e a dummy Visoflex. Does such a thing exist?
      Alternatively I could replace both the Visoflex and the16466 with a 64mm spacer, 39mm female thread to male M-bayonet. Does such a thing exist?
      The third alternative is disassemble the Visoflex. I haven't tried that. If I do, what problems might I face?
    • By LocalHero1953
      Leica TL2 black body, boxed and complete (straps, cable, instructions, charger, alternate power socket pins).
      Additional two batteries (3 total), matching Visoflex EVF Type 020, steel lug pins (2 nr), black dummy pins (2 nr), lug pin removal tool.
      Excellent condition, no significant marks, fully working with no problems. The outer box is a bit tatty at the closure point but intact.
      I bought the TL2 a year ago, used, from the Leica Shop, Vienna, as a back up for my CL for travel. I would keep it but it has been replaced by a full-frame Sigma fp.
      The TL2 sells for just under £1000 on ebay, and the Visoflex for another couple of hundred pounds. Including the Visoflex and batteries, this is a bargain!
      Postage or courier charges will be added at cost, to be agreed before final sale.
    • By Charadis
      I recently found a super deal on a Visoflex 020 being sold by Adorama through auction listed as having major defects; the details described as "** Item Notes: Viewfinder does not switch back to LCD screen properly; Likely proximity sensor issue; May have other issues; Cosmetic condition is E ** 
      However, the price was too good to pass up, less than half price of a brand new one. So I took a chance and bought it. When I received and tried it out, to my surprise, it worked, but there were green lines across the display. The lines went away when I angled the viewfinder to the max 90 degrees angle, but only temporarily. Issue returned when I adjusted the angle of the viewfinder again. 
      I spent the latter half of a Friday evening/night before I pinned the problem down to the LCD connection to the main board. I started disassembling the base module where the unit connects to the camera at the hot shoe. There are four screws at the bottom, then the top of that module can be lifted up and out. There is a swinging door with the tiniest spring that attaches to that top piece, very easy to lose. The door can fall off easily. The hot shoe connection can then be disconnected from the metal hinge assembly by removing two silver screws and pushing back the two plastic tabs securing the connector to the hinge plate. 

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      To disassemble the main eyepiece module, the rubber eye "hood" or protector had to be removed; it is held in by double-sided adhesive at the top and bottom inside. Behind that, there are two screws left and right flanking the eyepiece that hold the upper and lower housing together. After I removed those, I spent a lot of time working the housing, trying to figure out if there were any other screws, or if adhesive or tabs were holding them together. Turns out, I took a chance and found out there is a tab on each of the three sides. The bottom comes off, and the main assembly is attached to the top housing. 
      The ribbon flex cable connecting the base module to the eyepiece main module had no signs of damage; connection was fine, and removing/reattaching it did not resolve the green-lines issue. There were no breaks on the flex. However, pushing the flex beneath made the green lines disappear temporarily. So I removed the mainboard from the top housing assembly, and found a misaligned connection between eyepiece LCD and the mainboard: see, the connection is crooked 

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      It may have dislodged from the connector after a drop, or perhaps maybe it was never properly installed at the factory. Or maybe the continued adjusting/angling of the viewfinder furthered the loose connection? In any case, removing and reinstalling the connection made the green lines disappear and have not reappeared ever since I reassembled everything together. 
      I tested the eyepiece multiple times on my TL before reassembling everything back together. 

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      Gotta say, I'm very happy with the viewfinder. Though it seems to pale in comparison to the viewfinder in my recently acquired CL, it is still a very welcome addition. And very fun to use. I'm not a serious photographer, but I'm slowly working my way into a new hobby.. 

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      Some background; I have repaired other people's smartphones in the not too distant past, and I collect and repair vintage Macintosh computers. After my experience with the TL, Leica cameras are working their way into becoming a new part of my collection. 
    • By J-T
      I've been procrastinating for a very long time over getting something to work with my M9P for macro work - specifically taking shots of antique/vintage fountain pens I've restored for sale or show.
      Technically I should be looking at a whole different camera (or digital Visoflex if I had a later M camera) but it would be great to get something working with the outfit I currently have.
      To start with I have a Visoflex III and I have my M9P and a few lenses that suffice to say don't work well for close up.
      I'd like to keep this simple and not break the back and I've figure out I'm probably looking at a v2 Elmar-V 65mm f3.5 which is a relatively 'meh' lens specifically built for the Visoflex and won't work directly on the M9 but apparently but does the job.  The Macro Elmar-M 90mm f4 has far too many zeros in the price even for a used one and it is indeed a nice lens.
      Here is where I am:
      1. Elmar-V 65/3.5 + 16464 universal focusing mount (OTZFO) + 16471 (OTPRO) ring extension
      2. Tele-Elmar-M 135/4  + 16464 universal focusing mount (OTZFO) + 16471 (OTPRO) ring extension
      Option 1 gives me infinity to 330mm (13") or 330mm - 270mm focusing distance with EF= 2x or 3.4x (apparently)
      Option 2 gives me infinity to 980mm (38.5") or 980mm - 680mm focusing distance with EF = 1.4x or 2x (apparently)
      I'm going to say the despite the Tele-Elmar being a significantly more useful lens outside macro work and with a significantly better optical formula its probably going to be a pain to use for my application use case.
      I could look at getting the bellows adapter for the 135/4 but suspect this is just going to get a little unwieldy and out of hand.
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