yorbard Posted February 23, 2015 Share #41 Posted February 23, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) Jaapw Early (film) VFs' are quite bright, and as long as the series M hotshot is the same distance from film plane as the series III a thru g, these 90 and 135 VFs are very efficient. (I run a Leica IIIf and have both dedicated VFs) granted, they don't magnify. Bit they are so bright, I don't find it matters. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted February 23, 2015 Posted February 23, 2015 Hi yorbard, Take a look here 90mm & 135mm Difficulty in Use. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
yorbard Posted February 23, 2015 Share #42 Posted February 23, 2015 Sorry, typo: for hotshot read hotshoe. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest volker_m Posted February 23, 2015 Share #43 Posted February 23, 2015 Thanks to click in the top, middle and right icon to enlarge : Apo 90 Summicron Asph: L1011173_jpghtdamhon_jpgred700.jpg Image13statuecath-3lufht___red1200cad.jpg L1015283orchid___lufgermhtLUG___red700.jpg L1014302coq leica m8 90aposumasph ___htlug___red1200.jpg with 90 Macro-Elmar: L1011987htcplednred1200.jpg with Apo Telyt 135 Asph: Image9rosem7apotelyt135kp160lught___red1200cad30.jpg L1013020-2htcoqavred1200.jpg L1012999-3htcoqpopies135red1200.jpg Hi Henry, thanks for posting pictures, but you might have missed my point. No doubt that Summicron 90 and Elmar 135 can be used wide open for web size pictures, or small paper prints. And of course, no issues when stopped down a bit. I was talking about sharpness at original size (100% crop) when used wide open. Tripod or not, that is a challenge to focus accurately. But of course, no issues when stopped down enough, and no issues wide open when looking at smaller picture sizes only. Something that looks blurred in 100% magnification might look just fine when reduced to 25% size (1500x1000 px) for the web. BR, Volker Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted February 23, 2015 Share #44 Posted February 23, 2015 Hi Henry, thanks for posting pictures, but you might have missed my point. No doubt that Summicron 90 and Elmar 135 can be used wide open for web size pictures, or small paper prints. And of course, no issues when stopped down a bit. I was talking about sharpness at original size (100% crop) when used wide open. Tripod or not, that is a challenge to focus accurately. But of course, no issues when stopped down enough, and no issues wide open when looking at smaller picture sizes only. Something that looks blurred in 100% magnification might look just fine when reduced to 25% size (1500x1000 px) for the web. BR, Volker Volker , Here a crop 100% at f:2 with Apo Summicron 90 Asph Leica M9 320 Isos Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Best Henry I'll post crop 100% of 135 ApoTelyt Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Best Henry I'll post crop 100% of 135 ApoTelyt ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/241311-90mm-135mm-difficulty-in-use/?do=findComment&comment=2769376'>More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted February 23, 2015 Share #45 Posted February 23, 2015 and the original picture during my last humanitarian medical mission 2014 Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Leica M9 Apo Summicron 90 Asph without magnifier and without tripod No correction Best Henry Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Leica M9 Apo Summicron 90 Asph without magnifier and without tripod No correction Best Henry ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/241311-90mm-135mm-difficulty-in-use/?do=findComment&comment=2769381'>More sharing options...
pgk Posted February 23, 2015 Share #46 Posted February 23, 2015 My experience (with 135/4 and 90/2 on M8) is that it is possible to obtain accurate focus BUT.... Its 'on the edge'. Sometimes its simply isn't perfect ,despite me trying as hard as I can. It depends on good conditions, as soon as any factor such as low contrast, motion or even tiredness on my part, and the hit rate drops. So I'm intending() to stick with 75/2 and 90/2.8 as my limits on the M9; sure I'd like longer/faster but the loss rate is frustrating even when it is low. I prefer to know that when I lose a shot due to mis-focus, its my fault rather than trying to push limits. And FWIW, yes, pixel peeping does reveal that digital is more unforgiving than film - but there again so do the large prints I occasionally get made;). Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest volker_m Posted February 23, 2015 Share #47 Posted February 23, 2015 Advertisement (gone after registration) Volker ,Here a crop 100% at f:2 with Apo Summicron 90 Asph Leica M9 320 Isos Henry, sharp indeed. But your Summicron 90 must have a much larger DOF wide open than mine at the same distance. Or more likely, this wasn't shot at f/2. Cheers, Volker Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted February 23, 2015 Share #48 Posted February 23, 2015 I am wearing glasses and these are up-to-date, so I didn't see value in the diopter correction lens. M cameras being set by default to -0.5 diopter, you may wish to make sure your eyeglasses are set to compensate for that. My eyeglasses are set to +1.5 diopters for instance but i use +2 diopters correction lenses on my Ms. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted February 23, 2015 Share #49 Posted February 23, 2015 That dioptre is there for a reason. The projections in the viewfinder are set to 2 m virtual distance. Even if you correct, the result must still be -0.5 dioptre after correction for comfortable use. So do not compensate. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted February 23, 2015 Share #50 Posted February 23, 2015 I used to use the same diopters as that of my glasses for my eyepiece correction lenses in the past but i was wrong. You may wish to take a look at what Leica says on this point: Please note that the Leica M-Viewfinder is preset by default to -0.5 diopters, so anyone wearing glasses of 1 diopter strength would require a +1.5 diopters correction lens. Correction lenses M // Viewfinder Accessories // Technical Equipment // Leica M // Photography - Leica Camera AG Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest volker_m Posted February 23, 2015 Share #51 Posted February 23, 2015 (edited) If i's good for Leica it is good for me. Btw, I just found the advice from Leica CS on using Tele-Elmar-M 135/4 with the M9. This was part of the order confirmation when they did the focus adjustment. Translation: "Use of 135mm lenses on the M9 is limited. Due to the particularly small depth of field at this focal length and the resulting need for accurate adjustment of the entire system, we recommend to stop down at least 2 stops." Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Edited February 23, 2015 by volker_m translation amendment: adjustment Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/241311-90mm-135mm-difficulty-in-use/?do=findComment&comment=2769536'>More sharing options...
lct Posted February 23, 2015 Share #52 Posted February 23, 2015 Yes Leica issued the same warning in their user's manuals if memory serves but they kept selling the Apo-Telyt-M 135/3.4 in the same time with DoF tables based on the 0.03mm CoC. All i can say is i have three 135mm lenses (135/4, 135/2.8 & 135/3.4) and i can focus them all at f/4 at least with good hit rate on the M240. Sample below at f/4 with my Elmar from 1961 (focus on the label of the last book). Now i'm just an old Leica user having nothing to sell needless to say so my best advice to you is to have your lenses calibrated if need be and to order a diopter correction lens of the same correction as your eyeglasses + 0.5 diopter. FWIW. http://tinyurl.com/msyg4rk (13 MB file) Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted February 23, 2015 Share #53 Posted February 23, 2015 I used to use the same diopters as that of my glasses for my eyepiece correction lenses in the past but i was wrong. You may wish to take a look at what Leica says on this point: Correction lenses M // Viewfinder Accessories // Technical Equipment // Leica M // Photography - Leica Camera AG Which begs the question: why set it to -0.5 when it needs to be corrected? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted February 23, 2015 Share #54 Posted February 23, 2015 Which begs the question: why set it to -0.5 when it needs to be corrected? And why did Nikon choose -1? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgk Posted February 24, 2015 Share #55 Posted February 24, 2015 Which begs the question: why set it to -0.5 when it needs to be corrected? Doesn't this simply ensure that the overall correction remains optimised for 2m? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mirekti Posted February 28, 2015 Share #56 Posted February 28, 2015 (edited) In my case I use 1.35x with 135mm APO. Somewhat strange, but I don't have any issues when subject is anything from 1.5m to 20-30m. For me the problem begins in those distances where the lens has to be focused between 20 and infinity. One gets rather quickly from 20m to infinity sign on the lens, and I am never 100% sure I hit the focus correctly. Than again, it might be I am not so steady and 135mm lens and long distance subject reveal this. My workaround is to set it to f/5.6 ant longer distances. This one was shot at 25m distance and cropped. The second one is some 45m and f/4.6, and one can see the focus is behind the player. It is a bit troublesome, and as if the lens is a bit back focusing, but I checked this via display and it's not. Although most of the "wrong focus" images appear to be back focused in my library. Anyhow, I really like 135mm. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Edited February 28, 2015 by mirekti Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/241311-90mm-135mm-difficulty-in-use/?do=findComment&comment=2771929'>More sharing options...
lct Posted February 28, 2015 Share #57 Posted February 28, 2015 The second one is some 45m and f/4.6, and one can see the focus is behind the player. DoF was more of less 30 meters wide then but manual focus is more tricky on moving subjects. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sblutter Posted May 17, 2017 Share #58 Posted May 17, 2017 In 135mm, I have both the old Elmar 4.0 and newer Tele-Elmarit 4.0, ser #2459xxx Even on a tripod (with a cable release and 2 sec. self-timer) stopped down to f:8 (1/90) on an M240 I can't pull great focus in LV @ 10x from 15' away (let's call it 'party distance') - which is of course the same as the disappointing capture. Acceptable? Not to me if I'm doing architecture etc. Both a bit low in contrast as well. All other lenses tack sharp from 21 to 90 up & down the dial Is it the case that we just can't expect much from these lenses? My 90's are terrific performers, even the C (Tried the old 2.0 90. Sold after 1 week of frustration - too heavy anyway.) Of interest, the old & new lens perform nearly identically Any reccs for alternate 135's? I don't need one often but when I do, its got to be usable @ at least 5.6. The 'eyes' version to me is a wish that didn't come true. Thanks all! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted May 17, 2017 Share #59 Posted May 17, 2017 I use a lot Tele Elmar 135...typically at f8, and with the usual focus with RF the rate of success is high (STABLE situations... I have never learned how to manage moving targets with 135... but someone knows how) ; Recently I picked up again my Tele Elmarit 135 ("goggled") ... well, wasn't for its size/shape I would ALWAYS use it... mounting and looking in the finder is superpleasant in comparision with the miserable standard frame of 135... If you aren't too worried about carrying it (NOT pocketable, definitely.. ) I would warmly encourage you towards this fine lens... the last items are excellent performers and even not too costly, being an "odd but no rare" item. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sblutter Posted May 17, 2017 Share #60 Posted May 17, 2017 Just spent time looking at results of old LTM 135mm lenses. Jupiter & Canon pics look terrific - and are very affordable on Ebay. After a bit more looking will pick one up. The Leica ones I have are sadly useless I've great success with non Leica lenses for yrs. Zeiss 21 & 50 (1.5) Voight 35 2.5 pancake (tiny!) & 75 (my go-to portrait lens) Leitz - too many to list. My daily shooters are Summi 50 ver 4, most recent Elmar collapsible 50 or Summi 35 2.0 ASPH No one other than a geek or snob cares about lens brand when they experience a photograph that touches them Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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