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Should I care? - Viewfinder separation


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Hey fokks

 

I was about to switch my M6 for an MP but then i realized (because I'm still a student) I might just get away with another M (just want one that doesn't have the zinc stuff, brass only, that's the reason). It's a bit costly.

 

So, I was checking the M3, M2 & M4's but I was wondering if I should care about the viewfinder separation and silverthing (contrast of rangefinder patch).

 

Should I take it in account or isn't it that bad?

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I would suggest finding out what such a repair would cost (for example check with Wil van Manen), add that to the price of the body you are looking at purchasing, and if the addition of the two values is below the cost for a body without the problem, then it is a reasonable deal, and you could always get the problem fixed later when you have the funds. There are plenty of bodies on the market at different prices so it would be worth spending some time to get a decent one.

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I never go to Wil van Manen again. He's way too expensive, even Leica is less expensive.

I don't mind spending €1500-2000 on a good working M2/3/4 body if it's okay for another 15 years.

 

I would suggest finding out what such a repair would cost (for example check with Wil van Manen), add that to the price of the body you are looking at purchasing, and if the addition of the two values is below the cost for a body without the problem, then it is a reasonable deal, and you could always get the problem fixed later when you have the funds. There are plenty of bodies on the market at different prices so it would be worth spending some time to get a decent one.
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I never go to Wil van Manen again. He's way too expensive, even Leica is less expensive.

 

I don't mind spending €1500-2000 on a good working M2/3/4 body if it's okay for another 15 years.

 

 

I'm surprised to hear you say that. His prices are extremely cheap compared to Leica, and he is usually a lot faster. For €1500 you would be able to buy a perfect condition M6, or even an M7. M3 usually go for a bit less, and M4/2 even less.

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I'm surprised to hear you say that. His prices are extremely cheap compared to Leica, and he is usually a lot faster. For €1500 you would be able to buy a perfect condition M6, or even an M7. M3 usually go for a bit less, and M4/2 even less.

 

I have a perfect condition M6 now with original box etc. I don't like an M7 because of the electronics and I don't like the %6 because it has a zinc top plate.

 

Edit: I'm just asking if I should worry about the viewfinder separation if I get a mint condition M3/2/4

Edited by Jessestr
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I have a perfect condition M6 now with original box etc. I don't like an M7 because of the electronics and I don't like the %6 because it has a zinc top plate.

 

Edit: I'm just asking if I should worry about the viewfinder separation if I get a mint condition M3/2/4

 

 

If it has viewfinder separation then by definition I would have thought it is no longer considered mint? Keep looking for one that is in real mint condition and hasn't suffered from separation, or take the cost of a CLA into consideration.

 

Btw, what's wrong with a zinc too plate? Of course brass is maybe slightly stronger and better wearing in extreme circumstances, but will that really affect your ability to take photos?

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When I was a student about all I could afford from Leica was the brochure :D.

If you go to a M2/3 or 4 you will be losing the built in meter and various framelines so I guess you need to think about what lens you all ready have or feel like acquiring in the future.

The earlier M's are considered to be better built but Leica will tell you that the MP is built to the finest standards. The MP is supposed to have a better viewfinder and a more sensitive meter, you can also have black paint if thats one of the reasons for leaving the zinc behind but of course a MP costs considerably more.

Me personally if I had a M6 but not the funds to go to a MP I would stick with it rather than go to an earlier model just to lose the zinc top but others will no doubt disagree.

Good luck whatever you decide, cheers Rob

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If it has viewfinder separation then by definition I would have thought it is no longer considered mint? Keep looking for one that is in real mint condition and hasn't suffered from separation, or take the cost of a CLA into consideration.

 

Btw, what's wrong with a zinc too plate? Of course brass is maybe slightly stronger and better wearing in extreme circumstances, but will that really affect your ability to take photos?

 

My M6 is totally fine; Nothing wrong witht he viewfinder. I don't love that it has a zinc plate and I have to watch out to not get the zinc bubbles in the paint. I'd rather just be "safe" to scratch the camera when I put it down.

 

When I was a student about all I could afford from Leica was the brochure :D.

If you go to a M2/3 or 4 you will be losing the built in meter and various framelines so I guess you need to think about what lens you all ready have or feel like acquiring in the future.

The earlier M's are considered to be better built but Leica will tell you that the MP is built to the finest standards. The MP is supposed to have a better viewfinder and a more sensitive meter, you can also have black paint if thats one of the reasons for leaving the zinc behind but of course a MP costs considerably more.

Me personally if I had a M6 but not the funds to go to a MP I would stick with it rather than go to an earlier model just to lose the zinc top but others will no doubt disagree.

Good luck whatever you decide, cheers Rob

 

Luckily times changed :D I had 2x m8, 2x m4, 1x m6 already hah :)

I only shoot 50 and I might use a 35mm in the future. I NEVER use the built in lightmeter. I just use incident meter and maybe in the future I'll get a spotmeter (pentax digital spotmeter).

 

I have the money to get the MP, it's just. "is it worth the extra money". Thanks for your valuable information!

 

Don't rule out the M4-P. All but a few of them have brass tops. You can tell by the windows. Brass tops have recessed windows, the Zinc M4-P windows are flush.

.

 

Thanks!

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Is it worth it is very subjective, for the extra money you get a better fit and finish (according to Leica) including loosing the zinc top plate. The viewfinder is not so prone to flaring and the meter (which you do not use) is supposed to be more sensitive. You also get M3 type rewind knob and one piece advance lever.

It is doubtful that any of the above will result in taking a better picture so it becomes subjective if you feel the extra money is worth losing the zinc top plate.

Are you looking at new or secondhand because the new meterless M-A is cheaper than a new MP.

Another factor which may not be relevant at all in your case is the current motor drive and Leicavit will not fit the earlier models without some modification, maybe not at all as I have never tried myself.

So at the end of it all regardless of what I or anyone else may say you have to ask yourself is the extra money to lose the zinc top plate worth it to you?

 

cheers, Rob

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I had a DS M3 with separation (3 of the 4 borders in the VF were separating), after 3 years I could notice it getting slightly worse with time and the contrast was decreasing (checked against "good" M3 samples). I sent it in to Youxin Ye to have him recement the prism - once it came back it was amazing. So yes, I think separation matters. But it only cost me $150 or so to recement so in my mind it's not a huge deal, especially if you find a body that you otherwise really like.

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Don't rule out the M4-P. All but a few of them have brass tops. You can tell by the windows. Brass tops have recessed windows, the Zinc M4-P windows are flush.

.

 

Pico, thanks for the info,

 

Does the M4-P suffer from the same viewfinder flare that my 1985 M6 did, until I paid for the "MP viewfinder upgrade"? The upgrade really fixed my 0.72 M6. I'm told the flare was the worst for the 0.85 M6TTL.

 

I also had it done on an early M7, but the original coating on it was so good that the "MP viewfinder upgrade" only barely made any difference.

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