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M3 Acquisition Story with pics!


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Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your newfound second love.

Please take note that photographs for display are supposed to go into the photo forums, though.

Edited by jaapv
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If the viewfinder is clear and accurate and everything else is working, don't worry about a CLA. Save your money for the wedding and other expenses. Just using the camera on a regular basis will help it wake from its' long sleep.

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Corey, you must think yourself very lucky to have a future mother-in-law like that. These are great images and I have to agree with MadNbad keep your money in your pocket just use the camera.

 

Welcome to the forum and lets hope all goes well for your wedding.

 

Best wishes

 

Mike B:)

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A fantastic camera. I just recently bought one to go along with my M9. It has still not arrived and has not cleared customs at Canada Post. I find myself checking the on line tracking every few hours in the hopes that their website will say Out for delivery.

 

Once I get it I will order a new Vulcanite from Camera Leather and send it of for a CLA. I plan on keeping this camera until they close the lid on me.

 

You will not regret your purchase.

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Hello Corey,

 

Welcome to the Forum.

 

Nice photos.

 

Please keep in mind that the camera & other equipment you have were designed to be used as everyday tools & they can be used on a regular basis in spite of their age.

 

This is a good Forum to ask a lot of questions on because it happens to have a large number of really smart people from all kinds of backgrounds from all over the World. Many of them are quite willing to share their knowledge with you. In all kinds of fields.

 

There is also a "Wiki" at the top of each page which can provide you with a lot of information.

 

It is good to both use the Wiki & to ask questions of others.

 

There is also another "Historica" Section in addition to the "Leica Collectors & Historica" Section dealing with older cameras, lenses & other equipment.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

Edited by Michael Geschlecht
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Welcome. I've had two double wind M3s, the first of them for 17 years, and I think of them when I use my present M6 (which has a terribly inaccurate VF frame for 50mm). If you are getting good exposures, there is no cause for worry. The slow speeds (1/10 sec. and slower) are the first to give trouble. The self-timer also ceases to work as it should. I must confess to being pleasantly surprised by the contrasty performance of your collapsible Summicron. It does not appear to have any of the fog for which Leitz lenses are notorious.

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Welcome. I've had two double wind M3s, the first of them for 17 years, and I think of them when I use my present M6 (which has a terribly inaccurate VF frame for 50mm). If you are getting good exposures, there is no cause for worry. The slow speeds (1/10 sec. and slower) are the first to give trouble. The self-timer also ceases to work as it should. I must confess to being pleasantly surprised by the contrasty performance of your collapsible Summicron. It does not appear to have any of the fog for which Leitz lenses are notorious.

 

Thanks, payasam. Funny you mention the self timer, mine actually gave out about a week ago and just swings loosely now. Is that an easy fix?

 

my collapsible Summicron is pretty free of fog, which was also a worry for me because of reading how fragile the glass on these is. But I seem to be lucky with mine.

 

What other older lenses would you all recommend for my M3? I have my eye on the 35mm Summaron 2.8 w/ goggles, as I normally prefer a wider angle than 50mm. I know the wider angles aren't optimized for the M3 viewfinder.

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Corey, the problem is that the M3 has no finder frame wider than 50mm; and no amount of "optimisation" of a lens can change that. This was fixed in its successor, the M2, with 35-50-90 frames. If you opt for a goggled 35mm, you will be limited to lenses by Leitz/Leica. Many other companies have made good M mount lenses. Each of my two M3s had an external finder for 35mm fitted all the time. If you choose this option, you can use any 35mm lens -- or, with a suitable finder, a 28mm or wider lens. I'll recommend that you test fire the slow speeds -- 1/10, 1/5, 1/2, 1/1 -- and, if they are all right, ignore the self-timer unless you actually need it. If the flopping about of the lever bothers you, tape it down. It usually happens that when the self-timer stops working, the slow speeds also give trouble.

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To me, the VF of the M3 is the strength and not the weakness. It is much more complex than the VF of any other M.

I use an external VF for my 28mm in the street as I zone focus. The VF provides a magnified unobstructed focusing patch to focus precisely when I need to.

I shot two rolls of CineStill 800 in Times Square last night with my M3 and 75mm summilux wide open. I used a 1.4 magniier for the VF and the VF was nearly all focusing patch. Pure bliss.

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To me, the VF of the M3 is the strength and not the weakness. It is much more complex than the VF of any other M.

I use an external VF for my 28mm in the street as I zone focus. The VF provides a magnified unobstructed focusing patch to focus precisely when I need to.

I shot two rolls of CineStill 800 in Times Square last night with my M3 and 75mm summilux wide open. I used a 1.4 magniier for the VF and the VF was nearly all focusing patch. Pure bliss.

 

That's exactly why I opted for the M3 and not a different body. Cutting my teeth on my grandfather's IIIa, it was a pleasure shooting with only a 50mm lens. The VF is so clean it makes going to my M9 or MM somewhat less enjoyable.

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Hello Everybody,

 

As per what I am about to write: Please keep in mind that there were many versions & iterations of the Leitz/Leica M3. Just as there were many versions of the Hasselblad 500C. With both the 2&1/4 and the 24X36: They all, respectively, looked pretty similar from the outside. What I am writing below MIGHT NOT be the same with the M3 in your hand.

 

You can WIND the shutter whether or not the delay has been wound.

 

Once the delay lever has been wound appropriately the shutter can be released by either:

 

1. Pushing the little button normally hidden by the delay lever when the delay lever is in the run-down position.

 

2. Bypassing the delay & simply releasing the shutter in the normal manner with the shutter button on the top of the camera.

 

Many M3 self timers need to be wound at least 90 degrees in order to properly interlock the mechanism in order to allow the mechanism to function. This means that with those versions: If you turn the lever LESS than 90 degrees the lever will simply start running when you let it go & return & NOT engage.

 

Then there are 2 or 3 clicks at 90 degrees to get it to engage. After doing this the lever can be released by pushing the little button normally hidden behind it when the mechanism has run down completely.

 

This will release the mechanism to run whether or not the shutter is wound.

 

If the mechanism is rotated from the 90 degree position to about 180 degrees the ammount of delay can be varied from about 5 seconds to about 10 seconds.

 

While turning thru this second 90 degree arc it may be noticed that there is the possibility of returning the lever to the upright position AFTER the little button is pushed so that there is no motion of the lever as the mechanism runs down.

 

If the lever is wound to this second 90 degree arc & then inadvertantly bypassed:

 

(Keeping in mind that the shutter can STILL be released in a conventional manner once the delay is engaged beyond 90 degrees.)

 

It may APPEAR that the lever is flopping around. Actually, if the lever is wound more than 90 degrees: You can just push the little button before or after winding the shutter & you may well find that the lever goes right back to 12 noon. On top.

 

If the shutter speed is set to "B" & the self timer & the shutter are wound: After the delay mechanism runs down it fires the shutter & holds the shutter open for 2 or 3 seconds, more or less. You can time the actual time quite accurately by photgraphing a large clock dial with a with a large contrasting seconds hand & seeing how much the seconds hand moves during the exposure.

 

This gives you an accurate additional speed.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

Edited by Michael Geschlecht
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