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My new M8 - finally!


Colin1974

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After learning how to develop black and white film for the past year, I've decided to treat myself to an upgraded M8.

Initially, I had to get a refund on the first one, as the metering LED's weren't working properly. Luckily, another store nearby (RG Lewis in London) had the same camera in stock, just a few hundred pounds more and in near-mint condition. I found the staff helpful and friendly, and I spent half an hour talking photography with them while I tested it with my lenses.

I'm still going to stick with my film work (I've just put up shelves in my bathroom), but this camera looks like something special: it may well be the one digital camera I've been yearning for.

 

All the best, Colin.

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Well done Colin. Only today was I using my M8 for mono, captured in DNG but viewed on LCD as a mono image. Fine tuning is easy in Lightroom, the more so if images are DNG because you can tweak the individual colour channels to good effect. Or use a LR preset as a starting point.

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Thanks for the response.

Here is my initial experience of using the M8:

-Metering: Using the sunny/16 rule, the metering is extremely accurate and intuitive.

-Battery Life: The battery is holding up well: I use manual exposure, switch off the camera in between shots and set the auto review to either 1 second or off.

-Framelines: Unlike some owners, I find the framelines accurate, but it depends on how you hold the camera. It's best to hold the camera at the angle where all framelines are equally bright and clear: you need to hold the camera true to the framelines, the framing will take care of itself.

 

To be honest, I'm not convinced I need to use any editing software, as the image quality is spot on, even in jpeg. If it's good enough, why tinker with it?

 

 

Colin.

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To be honest, I'm not convinced I need to use any editing software, as the image quality is spot on, even in jpeg. If it's good enough, why tinker with it?

 

Because it could be better? :p

 

An advantage I have come to love, in my limited time, of raw and editing software is the ability to recover detail in underexposed shadows.

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Sharpening is always necessary for digital. It is at least a two stage process the last being at final size and resolution,

 

The camera has no idea what the final use is.

 

I have yet to see a photo that does not need some burn & dodge however small.

 

As you gain skill, you will wish you had mare to work from, best being a raw file.

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I just acquired a "new" M8 today myself! I have to say, so far, with my 50/2.8 Elmar-M on it, I'm quite happy with it and can't wait to put it through some real paces. I'll be around Manhattan Beach, CA next weekend, sounds like a good opportunity!

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-Framelines: Unlike some owners, I find the framelines accurate, but it depends on how you hold the camera.

 

Sorry, but the physics apply the same to you as everyone else; frame lines can only be accurate at one focusing distance, as explained in this FAQ.

 

If your M8 has upgraded frame lines (there are 3 possible M8 upgrades, including frame lines), then the lines are optimized at a distance of 2m (same as the M8.2 and M240). The stock M8 frame lines are optimized for .7m, and the M9 for 1m.

 

Yes, it's important to position your eye, and angle of view, to see the frame lines and focus patch clearly, but that's another matter.

 

The M240 frame lines also differ from the other digital Ms since they are internally rather than externally illuminated, allowing for better contrast (and color option…red or white).

 

All frame lines shift to compensate for parallax as one focuses at different distances…but that's another "accuracy" issue.

 

Jeff

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Sorry, but the physics apply the same to you as everyone else; frame lines can only be accurate at one focusing distance, as explained in this FAQ.

 

If your M8 has upgraded frame lines (there are 3 possible M8 upgrades, including frame lines), then the lines are optimized at a distance of 2m (same as the M8.2 and M240). The stock M8 frame lines are optimized for .7m, and the M9 for 1m.

 

Yes, it's important to position your eye, and angle of view, to see the frame lines and focus patch clearly, but that's another matter.

 

The M240 frame lines also differ from the other digital Ms since they are internally rather than externally illuminated, allowing for better contrast (and color option…red or white).

 

All frame lines shift to compensate for parallax as one focuses at different distances…but that's another "accuracy" issue.

 

Jeff

 

I think the frame lines shift for the M8, too, when changing focus distance. However, I don't think they are any more accurate at 1m than 1,000m.

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I think the frame lines shift for the M8, too, when changing focus distance. However, I don't think they are any more accurate at 1m than 1,000m.

 

You think? They definitely shift on the M8, as I said.

 

Optimized for 1m (actually .7m in stock M8) means just that. Read the FAQ.

 

Jeff

Edited by Jeff S
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  • 3 weeks later...

Just got my "new" m8.2 yesterday - my first digital Leica.

 

I'm having to sell all my Fuji gear, plus an M2 to fund the m8.2 and 28mm Elmarit Asph. It's certainly a step back in high ISO performance from the Fujis. Will certainly have to think more carefully about my approach to taking shots in difficult light.

 

Hope I've done the right thing - pretty sure I have ;-)

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Just got my "new" m8.2 yesterday - my first digital Leica.

 

I'm having to sell all my Fuji gear, plus an M2 to fund the m8.2 and 28mm Elmarit Asph. It's certainly a step back in high ISO performance from the Fujis. Will certainly have to think more carefully about my approach to taking shots in difficult light.

 

Hope I've done the right thing - pretty sure I have ;-)

 

 

Have you sold your M2? I may be interested...looking to buy my first film camera:o

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