Film frustration

[JeTexas]

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I get so excited about home developing, and then I wind up with a roll full of shots like this.

 

Film frustration by ffacker, on Flickr

 

Fingerprints, white stains and patches of black speckles. My entire roll looks like this.

 

What am I doing wrong? Should I be wearing gloves when loading the film? What causes the black speckles? How do I keep the negatives from drying without the white stains?

 

Any help is appreciated.

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[DigitalHeMan]

When I used to load film I always made a point of touching nothing but the edges. If you can't do that, then latex gloves could be the solution. Also when removing The roll from the tank you shouldn't need to touch anything other than the end and the edges - if you touch the emulsion you will leave fingerprints if you are not careful.

 

In order to avoid the drying marks use a few drops of drying agent in the final wash.

 

The black speckles could be caused by damage to the negs whilst the emulsion is still wet. They are black so this could mean there is no emulsion left on that part of the neg.

[250swb]

I think all the problems are cleanliness related. Had you been handling chemicals and not washed your hands before loading the film? Some of the marks look like contamination, or at least handling the film with damp hands or allowing it to drag on a contaminated surface. And yes, only hold the film by the edges, but I tend to think you had something on your finger to leave such a good mark.

 

Steve

[JeTexas]

I can't think of anything I was handling before loading the film, but I did not make a point to wash my hands before I started. I also had a really hard time getting the film onto the reel. I usually only touch the leader and the edges, but it kept jamming up, and I had to pull it out and reload it twice.

 

I'm still wondering what it was that caused the black speckles. There was also one frame that had what appeared to be a hole in the negative -- I know I wasn't THAT rough.

 

The entire process was jinxed yesterday. As I was washing the tumbler afterwards, it cracked down the seam, so I had to throw it out.

 

Does rinsing in cool versus warm water make any difference?

 

Also, I don't use a stop bath. I just rinse the negatives well before putting in the fixer. Does that make any difference?

[TomB_tx]

Temperature control is important - usually recommended is with 5 degrees while wet. That's a problem here in Texas, where "cold" tap water can get close to 90 in summertime. Large temperature swings - especially hot - can damage the emulsion and even cause reticulation.

For film I fill a few gallon containers with water at least a day before, and let them sit near the chemicals so all are at temperature. I rinse twice between developer and fixer (no stop bath for film - unless development time is very short), and about 5 changes of water with agitation after fixing.

I've always used Nikor stainless tanks and reels since the 1960s instead of the plastic reels that feed-in the film. Trap the end of the film in the center of the reel and hold tension while winding from the center out. When setting up my darkroom again after 25 years, I found the Hewes stainless reels make this a LOT easier! The have a couple of "teeth" at the center that grab sprocket holes to hold the end securely so you can hold better tension while winding the film.

[JeTexas]

I have stainless reels and a stainless tank as well, but I always ended up with negatives covered in pink spots where the film was touching. That's why I went to plastic. I'm not sure why I had such as problem loading it this time. It would start and then get stuck about halfway. I finally tried again loading it from the other end and it went right on. Go figure.

 

I've been rinsing with warm water thinking it would wash the developer off better. I'll stop doing that.

[Doc Henry]

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JE,

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

Bad revelation in the developer (the first step)

Kodak film for me 7-9 minutes (depending on the contrast we like) and 20 °-22°C

+ poor fixation (time 10 minutes in fixer Ilford S)

gently shake 5-10 seconds every minute during the revelation

 

Between the two steps of revealing and fixing, rinsing with tap water (same temperature, not hot)

 

After revelation step , 30 seconds with diluted white vinegar (purchased in supermarkets)

to strengthen the film and save fixer (uses longer)

 

Last step, add a wetting agent (such as Kodak Photoflo) to avoid traces of drops agent

 

dry the film before scanning or enlarge. Let it dry one night by hanging as clothes

a clothespin down for the film straight, and attached to a iron wire

 

 

Trace of having dirty hands and fingers

For the film, use hands and fingers clean (use latex gloves if not allergic to latex)

I work without gloves but I never touch the film, but only the edge

I have a sleeve in cotton to develop in broad daylight. I put inside the tank Paterson.

 

One last thing :

Developer and fixer must be changed after 10 rolls and kept in a stoppered flask protected from light (non-transparent plastic)

(I use D76 diluted 1:1)

 

Good development. It's nice to do himself and immediately see the result

...with no scratches if you give an outside laboratory and it is cheaper

and ventilate the workpiece (physician advice)

 

Best

Henry

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/aj3/aj3.pdf

 

Good photos and please post your pictures here

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/other/286747-i-like-film-open-thread.html

[pico]

Always load the reels with the spool end going in first, and cut off the taper of the leader once the reel is loaded.

 

At the start of development give the tank a couple sharp raps on the bottom to dislodge bubbles.

 

Stop bath is suggested because it stops development, of course, but it also makes the film acidic which extends the life of your fixer. Be certain you use the proper dilution. Too strong a mix can cause gassing in the emulsion and result in pin holes in the emulsion.

 

If you have hard water, then wash time can be shorter, but you must haves a final rinse in distilled water. Always use a wetting agent such as Photoflow 200. 200 refers the proper dilution of 1 part Photoflow to 200 parts water. Don't use a stronger solution because it can leave a slight scum on the film.

 

White spots could be from bubbles while in the fix. Agitate while in the fix. The black spots can be from particulates in the water, but it is unlikely. When I had well-water I passed the water to mix with chemistry through a paper coffee filter.

 

I hope this helps.

[250swb]

Here is a good simple guide to film processing

 

The Online Darkroom: How to develop film

 

 

Steve

[becker]

Dont give up its worth it. Its not witchcraft

[Doc Henry]

JE, to encourage you to continue

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

Photo taken with M7 Summilux 50 Asph

Kodak TX400 - D76 dil:1:1 - 9 mns - 20°C

(photo not digital with smooth edges)

 

Grande Baie of Mont Saint Michel , low tide (Normandy-France)

enlarged in 30x40 cms , on FOCOMAT IC

Framework setting with a wide margin and hanging in my office !

Work done by myself from beginning to end

personal satisfaction and cheap (except the framework of the photo)

 

Note : pedestrians in the foreground (not dust...on "sensor")

picture taken at 92 m

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mont_Saint-Michel

 

Best

Henry

[Washington]

Doc,

I used to process with the old E3 with multi-filtered water right out of the Mekong River.....

and it was the right temperature to boot!

[erl]

Most of the advice above is good, but not the only way. Over time you must develop your own style of handing. Some thing are absolute of course. Like don't put your fingers on the emulsion side, keep temperature even and consistent, start with your reels/spools totally dry and even a little warm before loading. Always handle film with dry hands and then only by the edges.

 

Keep trying. Each time you will solve another problem.

[Herr Barnack]

Developing your own film at home is a simple process, but absolute attention to detail is mandatory for good results. Good results do not come from half-hearted efforts or slipshod darkroom practices (not to imply that Je Texas can be accused of either, as I have never developed with him).

 

You have to be obsessive about cleanliness when loading and developing film. Your changing bag must be clean and dust free; so must all of your developing hardware (reels, tank, tank lid, thermometer, chemistry measuring beaker, stirring rod, etc.). Your hands must also be clean and dry. Your fingernails can damage the film emulsion - even when the emulsion is dry - so keep them trimmed short and use an emory board to smooth off any rough spots or sharp edges.

 

When loading film, I do not worry about touching the edges of the film or the back side of the film. I avoid touching the emulsion side of the film as much as I can but sometimes it happens. If your hands are clean and dry and your equipment is also clean and dry, touching the emulsion sde of the film while it is still dry should not damage it.

 

After developing the film, use a wetting agent ( Kodak Photo-Flo 200 Solution 1464510 B&H Photo Video ) for black and white film. Make sure your squegee tongs are clean, dust/particle/grit free by rinsing them in clean water first then in photo flo. Squegee the excess photo flo off the film strip - avoiding touching the emulsion side while it is wet and soft - and hang the film strip(s) in as dust and dirt free a room as is possible. Close the door to limit air circulation and thus airborne dust that will become embedded in the damp emulsion. The film will air dry in about an hour; give it 2-3 hours before you take the film down to cut it to put the negatives in storage pages to be sure the film is completely dry and the emulsion has had a chance to harden.

 

Following the above procedures have always provided me with well developed, clean, undamaged negatives and trasparencies.

 

Hope this helps...

[Guest]

Doc,

I used to process with the old E3 with multi-filtered water right out of the Mekong River.....

and it was the right temperature to boot!

 

You should do it again

[Broadside]

I would use an old film and practice loading steel spirals in daylight until it becomes second nature. Once learned - never forgotten. Also, if your water is really hard, as mine is, you could try using distilled water for the final wash.

[NZDavid]

I would just reinforce that temperature is critical. Another danger is reticulation, when the emulsion appears to have cracks in it. I found it was caused by washing the film in winter when the tap water was running icy cold. The easy solution is either a forced film washer if you have two taps, or if you have a single mixer, make surge the temp is approx. 20C/68F.

 

Adding a few drops of wetting agent at the end of the final rinse will help prevent drying marks, although it is not absolutely essential. Squeegee the film carefully (For example, using a Paterson squeegee) before hanging up to dry in a warm dust-free environment.

[250swb]

I would just reinforce that temperature is critical. Another danger is reticulation, when the emulsion appears to have cracks in it. I found it was caused by washing the film in winter when the tap water was running icy cold. The easy solution is either a forced film washer if you have two taps, or if you have a single mixer, make surge the temp is approx. 20C/68F.

 

The temperature of the wash water is often overlooked, but not many people have taps that can control it accurately as water pressures change in the half hour that washing takes. The link I gave above to the Online Darkroom cites the Ilford archival method of washing, it only needs a large jug of water which is easy to have at the right temperature, and unlike pressure washing only takes a few minutes. For people on a water meter it also saves a lot of water.

 

Steve

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Hallo,

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[}{B]

If you are having trouble loading the film onto the developing reels in a changing bag it could be worth trying to find a second hand Jobo Daylight loading tank. I use one and although they need slightly more solution (450ml) than a standard tank they are easy to use and it is all done in daylight.

 

Jobo 2400 daylight processing tank demo vid

[pico]

The temperature of the wash water is often overlooked, but not many people have taps that can control it accurately as water pressures change in the half hour that washing takes.

 

If the temp changes gradually there will be no problem. But half an hour for washing is overdoing it.

.