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jonoslack

Manual Focus with the Leica T . . . an article

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ISO is not something I change on the fly.

 

I was hoping I could put exposure comp on the right dial and image zoom on the left - this would give me a very fluid method of shooting. Having the EC on the far right side works very well for me with both my NEX7 and X100s because it falls under my thumb and allows for instantaneous exposure correction.

 

The dial configuration in manual is perfect for me (zoom left, shutter speed right), but I find myself shooting in aperture priority most of the time these days. Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks?

 

Hi There Ken

The point of the article was that, after lots of practice, the image zoom really is superfluous - it spoils the composition and it spoils the moment (different on a tripod of course, but that really isn't the point of the T).

When I'm shooting M lenses I have Exposure Compensation on the left dial, and I don't use the right dial - it works really well. We've just come back from Istanbul, and I was using this technique with the 90 Macro Elmar (135 equivalent) in the Grand Bazaar (dark and horrible lighting) - I really think the zoom is a safety net you don't need.

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Well, I'm pleased to have helped.

 

As a matter of interest, in Aperture Priority, why wouldn't you want ISO on the dial? Aperture is set on the lens, shutter speed by definition set by the camera. What would you want to use the dials for? I would have thought you'd want ISO control as the last variable ...

 

I often use AUTO iso.

When using an M lens I want exp compensation on one wheel and magnification for manual focus on the other wheel.

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Hi There Ken

The point of the article was that, after lots of practice, the image zoom really is superfluous - it spoils the composition and it spoils the moment (different on a tripod of course, but that really isn't the point of the T).

When I'm shooting M lenses I have Exposure Compensation on the left dial, and I don't use the right dial - it works really well. We've just come back from Istanbul, and I was using this technique with the 90 Macro Elmar (135 equivalent) in the Grand Bazaar (dark and horrible lighting) - I really think the zoom is a safety net you don't need.

 

I think magnification isnt needed for longer lenses but for 35mm and wider it can be nice if you want accurate focus.

The option wouldnt hurt people - they dont have to use the option. I understand Leica wants to keep it simple, but I still think it would be a good to have the option to set up both wheels.

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I often use AUTO iso.

When using an M lens I want exp compensation on one wheel and magnification for manual focus on the other wheel.

 

Ah, I understand.

 

It may be that the M9 has coloured my thinking, but I found very early on with that camera (and with the Monochrom) that I wanted the camera to control only one variable at a time. So, with the Monochrom, I manually control the aperture and shutter speed, leaving it to the camera to set the ISO on Auto. With the M9, I set the ISO, and leave it to the camera to set the shutter speed - that means that exposure compensation becomes important. The alternative is everything manual, which I know a lot of people use here. My problem with that is that you then get an arrow with no indication of how far off the meter recommendation you are - I much prefer the old system (Nikon FE and lots of others) where you had a scale on the right hand side of the viewfinder which told you immediately how much you were under or over-exposing by. I do wish they'd bring that back.

 

For aperture priority on the T, I set the ISO, leaving the camera to set the shutter speed only. That does leave a residual issue which you touch upon, and that is exposure compensation - I still need to adjust what the camera's meter is telling it. So, for me, these settings work:

 

Aperture Priority
-
left dial
Exposure Compensation,
right dial
ISO (that is a logical combination to my mind)

 

Manua
l -
left dial
Exposure Compensation,
right dial
Shutter speed

In that way, the left is consistently for adjusting the meter, and the right either the sensor sensitivity or shutter speed. Adjusting exposure compensation without using the dial is fiddly; if you choose exposure compensation from the menu, you then have to slide the setting to what you want, and then press Set. Fine if you're setting one compensation, but I prefer the dial as you can adjust for each exposure.

 

That does leave you with a problem if you want the focusing magnification as a default. I do agree that it is odd that Leica doesn't allow you to set the right hand dial in aperture priority. Actually, I think they should allow both dials to be set in all circumstances. But, like Jono, I tend not to use the focusing magnification - if it popped up automatically when I adjust the focusing ring (as an option), I might use it, but I would get annoyed reasonably quickly with the loss of the full frame.

 

Cheers

John

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By the way..I find the exp metering of the T more consistant and reliable than that of the M.

 

Regarding MF...it would be great if the camera could detect if one is focusing manual and switch to magnification automatically (I think the M does it)...as an user option.

 

Even if I have some wishes which would clearly improve the T for me...I really like that system.

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By the way..I find the exp metering of the T more consistant and reliable than that of the M.

 

Regarding MF...it would be great if the camera could detect if one is focusing manual and switch to magnification automatically (I think the M does it)...as an user option.

 

Even if I have some wishes which would clearly improve the T for me...I really like that system.

 

I think you are right.

If the artikel which Mr Jono Slack wrote is true(some time ago). It should be possible to use that signal to tell the camera that the picture is in focus. That would be a great improvement of the camera.

The only trouble is that it does not give that signal with all lenses from the past(R and Zeiss lenses) This is at least my experience. But also I must say, my eyes are getting worse. that is one off the reasons I sold my M cameras and now use the T camera.

 

Regards

 

Harry

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I guess I would find focus zoom more useful if I could move the patch and it wasn't so fiddly. The fact that the M cameras have a central focusing patch doesn't make it a good thing. I love the movable patch using the AF lens. The most annoying feature of the zoom focus is that if you're framing a shot with the EVF a to your eye, you need to take the camera away from your face to select 3 or 6 times magnification.

 

I came to the same conclusion as Jono.

 

Hmmm, that's new information for me. Not good.

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Hi There Ken

The point of the article was that, after lots of practice, the image zoom really is superfluous - it spoils the composition and it spoils the moment (different on a tripod of course, but that really isn't the point of the T).

When I'm shooting M lenses I have Exposure Compensation on the left dial, and I don't use the right dial - it works really well. We've just come back from Istanbul, and I was using this technique with the 90 Macro Elmar (135 equivalent) in the Grand Bazaar (dark and horrible lighting) - I really think the zoom is a safety net you don't need.

 

Hi, Jono -

 

I've tried working with my NEX7 unmagnified, and for my style of shooting magnification really does help. I'm not sure I want to give that up! It's sounding like the T may not work for me in its current firmware incarnation.

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Hmmm, that's new information for me. Not good.

 

3x is plenty good enough for 99% of the time ....... the 'shimmery' critical point is easily visible.

 

I have only ever used 6x when testing lenses and other fiddling about to check things etc .

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Sorry if this has been answered already, but is it possible to manually focus an AF lens (forgetting about the zoom function for a minute) simply by moving the focus ring, or do you have to alter a setting first?

 

Thanks.

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Hi, Jono -

 

I've tried working with my NEX7 unmagnified, and for my style of shooting magnification really does help. I'm not sure I want to give that up! It's sounding like the T may not work for me in its current firmware incarnation.

 

Well, if you need it I guess you need it - I just don't like any kind of messing with the image I'm looking at - the EVF with the T is quite good - better I think than the NEX7.

 

But anyway, you can easily set the left ring to magnification - and they you have it.

 

I spent an afternoon shooting with the Leica R 80-200 at the weekend - once again- no magnification, and autumn light, so mainly at f4 - nearly everything was in focus. I just think this is practice.

 

Sorry if this has been answered already, but is it possible to manually focus an AF lens (forgetting about the zoom function for a minute) simply by moving the focus ring, or do you have to alter a setting first?

 

Thanks.

 

Hi Peter - not by simply moving the focus ring - sad I think, perhaps they'll do it with a firmware upgrade. mind you, it's pretty straightforward to change to MF (two taps on the screen) but still

 

 

I think you are right.

If the artikel which Mr Jono Slack wrote is true(some time ago). It should be possible to use that signal to tell the camera that the picture is in focus. That would be a great improvement of the camera.

The only trouble is that it does not give that signal with all lenses from the past(R and Zeiss lenses) This is at least my experience. But also I must say, my eyes are getting worse. that is one off the reasons I sold my M cameras and now use the T camera.

 

Regards

 

Harry

 

Hi Harry - the camera cannot tell when you're manual focusing, although of course, theoretically it could judge whether a certain part of the image was in focus........ but I'm not sure that focus confirmation is particularly useful.

 

Whatever, the one thing that is certain is that if Leica act on all the things everyone wants (they really do listen), then we would simply have a normal camera with huge menus with mutliple options . . not really the 'Essence'.

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Though I shoot RAW, I have the JPG setting to "high contrast black and white" - in this mode it's *very* easy to see the 'shimmer' of the plane of focus in the EVF.

 

...of course the viewfinder is only B&W at that point but it is noticeably easier to see the focal plane than in its normal color mode.

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Though I shoot RAW' date=' I have the JPG setting to "high contrast black and white" - in this mode it's *very* easy to see the 'shimmer' of the plane of focus in the EVF. ...of course the viewfinder is only B&W at that point but it is noticeably easier to see the focal plane than in its normal color mode. [/quote']

 

Nice trick! I'll try that with another camera I'm using.

Cheers, Carl

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Though I shoot RAW, I have the JPG setting to "high contrast black and white" - in this mode it's *very* easy to see the 'shimmer' of the plane of focus in the EVF.

 

...of course the viewfinder is only B&W at that point but it is noticeably easier to see the focal plane than in its normal color mode.

 

Excellent hint, it made me think of television studio cameras that monitor in B&W so the operators had a better judgement of the image they were seeing. On a quick test with the T EVF running in high-contrast B&W was excellent: you don't have color JPGs to review in camera (and wi-fi transfers might be moot because of this) but getting a sharper focussed DNG file to process is worth it.

 

This is a forum exchange with some physiological and electrical support for B&W monitoring over color

 

Black and White Viewfinders - Sony - Cinematography.com

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Being fairly new to Leica, I have not noticed the shimmer in either my M(240) or T. I was ready to write it off as a myth. But today, I received my M to T lens adaptor so I could use my M lenses on the T. Mounted it on the T with the APO f2/90mm and on my first try, there was the shimmer! It was very obvious.Tried some photos using the shimmer to focus and it worked great. Now that I know what to look for, I suspect I'll see it more often.

 

Thanks for the information everyone!

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Has anyone checked with Leica whether the 50mm Elmar-M can be safely collapsed on the T?

 

No, absolutely not. The manual

[*] says that you must not use a lens whose the internal protrudes more than 11 mm. vs. the flange of the M adapter. And the internal part of the Elmar-M 50 collapsed and adjusted to infini protrudes for around 20 mm. The Summicron M 50/f 1:2.0 is marginal (12 mm.) but can be used and collapsed, but at your own risks: so better not.

 

[*] the Leica M-ADAPTER T manual.

Edited by papimuzo
precision on info

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