Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
ReneN

Leitz Focomat II - 60mm Focotar lens flaring

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone,

I recently bought a Leitz Focomat II and discovered that when printing from the 60mm Focotar lens that two dark lines forming a triangle appear on either side of my prints. I also noticed that there are four light spots hitting the rim of the lens (these increase in size when you open up the aperture) and 'Im pretty sure this is related to the problem. I'v looked at the enlarger from every angle and checked that things are all in their proper place

 

I have attached images to demonstrate what I'm describing above. You can see one of the dark lines forming a triangle clearly in the sky above the lion's head (the same is mirrored on the other side of the print but harder to see), and there are a couple shots of the light spots hitting the rim of the lens.

 

Could anyone please tell me what might be causing these light flares and how I could fix the problem. All insights are greatly appreciated!

 

Rene

Edited by ReneN

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There's a couple of things to think off.

 

Light can be bouncing off your easel, or whatever you use to keep your paper flat.

 

Your negative looks like 6X6 to me, correct? The 60mm lens is meant for 135 negatives. That could have something to do with it. I would find an even lightgrey 135 negative and print it. (I have never even tried to use the 60mm to print 120 film, or 135 film with the 100mm)

 

Check if your condensor is positioned correctly. Lift up the handle that we need to take it out and turn the condensor around, both directions. It may drop a little bit.

 

You may have some masks that slide in underneath the bottom glass of the negative holder. Those are good to eliminate surplus light around the image. If you don't have these masks, get some black thin carton (or thick paper) and cut them yourself. All you need is a little more than your negative.

 

Finally, a 150 watt lamp is standard for the 2C. By bringing the bulb up or down you can even out the illumination. I find it easiest to judge this in the total dark, projecting on a white surface and closing the lens all the way. Others measure the light in the corners and the middle . . . Either way, it's about just trying.

 

Anyway, while writing this I get more convinced you are just using the wrong lens for 6X6 . . . Then, the 2C is quite a machine and it always needs getting used to.

 

Michael

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
There's a couple of things to think off.

 

Light can be bouncing off your easel, or whatever you use to keep your paper flat.

 

Your negative looks like 6X6 to me, correct? The 60mm lens is meant for 135 negatives. That could have something to do with it. I would find an even lightgrey 135 negative and print it. (I have never even tried to use the 60mm to print 120 film, or 135 film with the 100mm)

 

Check if your condensor is positioned correctly. Lift up the handle that we need to take it out and turn the condensor around, both directions. It may drop a little bit.

 

You may have some masks that slide in underneath the bottom glass of the negative holder. Those are good to eliminate surplus light around the image. If you don't have these masks, get some black thin carton (or thick paper) and cut them yourself. All you need is a little more than your negative.

 

Finally, a 150 watt lamp is standard for the 2C. By bringing the bulb up or down you can even out the illumination. I find it easiest to judge this in the total dark, projecting on a white surface and closing the lens all the way. Others measure the light in the corners and the middle . . . Either way, it's about just trying.

 

Anyway, while writing this I get more convinced you are just using the wrong lens for 6X6 . . . Then, the 2C is quite a machine and it always needs getting used to.

 

Michael

I'm happy to report that a solution has been found!

 

After having looked at every possible cause for the light flares I could think of I contacted our local master printer here in Sydney, Chris Reid from Blanco Negro.

He was amazing. He offered to come and take a look at my enlarger and in the space of 15 minutes the culprit was pinpointed and sorted out.

 

Trouble was that too much light was bouncing around the neg-carrier's two panes of glass.

By simply masking out the excess edges with some ruby gel/filter the flares were absorbed and disappeared from the print. Viola!

 

Thank you to everyone who pitched in to help solve this little riddle.

All the best,

Rene

 

 

PS. You can find other reader's responses to this thread in the 'Film Forum'.

Edited by ReneN

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes I have a Focomat IIc with an Ilford Multigrade 500H (this Ilford Multigrade Head has two 300w lamps in it) and that is correct the Negative Carrier has to have the appropriate Mask for the size of the film being used otherwise you will have unwanted light. I have two original masks (6x6 / 35mm) and one made for me in the same style (6x7). I of course mostly use my 35mm Negative Carrier from my reliable M3. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am entirely happy with a Focomat IIa which uses masks below the carrier. They were very difficult to find. I made my own until I found the Real Things. I use it for 6x9 (real 6x9 as from the Plaubel Veriwide and Super Ikonta), and 35mm. Boy, the Ilford Multigrade head and timer would be great. I use one on 4x5 and dread the day it blows another controller.

.

Edited by pico

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...