~lumiere Posted February 9, 2014 Share #1 Â Posted February 9, 2014 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hello, Â I just purchased my first Summilux lens (35 mm - 1.4, ASPH, 6 Bit) and noticed that most of my images seem blurry. I took the same pictures (or very similar) with a Noctilux (50mm 1.1) and with a Summicron and the vast majority of my pictures were sharp. This makes me believe that this might not be pilot error. What might be the reason why I am not achieving in-focus pictures with the Summilux while I am achieving these with the Summicron and the Noctilux? Â I am wondering if I should send the lens back...? I would appreciate your guidance? Best, LLS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted February 9, 2014 Posted February 9, 2014 Hi ~lumiere, Take a look here Should I send my new lens back to the dealer??. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
StephenPatterson Posted February 9, 2014 Share #2 Â Posted February 9, 2014 Time for some controlled testing. Â 1. Use a tripod. 2. Take a series of images at targets from 1m to infinity. Have clear, high contrast targets. 3. Shoot wide open and use an ISO that allows for a fairly high shutter speed. 4. Shoot the same targets with another lens for comparison. Â You will find out soon enough if your lens has a problem... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
~lumiere Posted February 10, 2014 Author Share #3 Â Posted February 10, 2014 Thank you for your guidance and advice. I appreciate it. I will do some controlled testing this week to get more specific information. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StephenPatterson Posted February 10, 2014 Share #4 Â Posted February 10, 2014 Shoot a magazine or ruler at a 45 degree angle, having a clear focus target. You should be able to determine if your camera is front or back focusing, and if so by how much. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
darylgo Posted February 10, 2014 Share #5 Â Posted February 10, 2014 An easy test is to put a flash on your camera, set the highest sync speed, shoot an object 15 feet away, move your focus in tiny increments on the focus ring both ways from correct rangefinder focus. If none are in focus then the lens has issues, if it is back or front focus it might be an adjustment. Another sample of the lens for comparison is also a great way to evaluate it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mr. B Posted February 11, 2014 Share #6  Posted February 11, 2014 Hello, I just purchased my first Summilux lens (35 mm - 1.4, ASPH, 6 Bit) and noticed that most of my images seem blurry. I took the same pictures (or very similar) with a Noctilux (50mm 1.1) and with a Summicron and the vast majority of my pictures were sharp. This makes me believe that this might not be pilot error. What might be the reason why I am not achieving in-focus pictures with the Summilux while I am achieving these with the Summicron and the Noctilux?  I am wondering if I should send the lens back...? I would appreciate your guidance? Best, LLS  For what you paid for that lens by all means take it back. If I purchased that lens and experience those results that is what I would do. Mr. B Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AB007 Posted February 11, 2014 Share #7 Â Posted February 11, 2014 Advertisement (gone after registration) For what you paid for that lens by all means take it back. If I purchased that lens and experience those results that is what I would do.Mr. B Â +1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StephenPatterson Posted February 11, 2014 Share #8 Â Posted February 11, 2014 For what you paid for that lens by all means take it back. If I purchased that lens and experience those results that is what I would do.Mr. B Â Wouldn't you like to rule out camera shake or rangefinder calibration as a possible cause before returning a lens? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted February 11, 2014 Share #9 Â Posted February 11, 2014 I'd ask if the pictures get any sharper when the lens is stopped down? The OP is clearly a fan of fast lenses and while the focus may be off, or he is encountering some 'built in' focus shift that can't be adjusted away, it has to be accepted that used wide open lenses are never going to be at their sharpest, yet some will be better than others, it isn't a level playing field. Â Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianUK Posted February 11, 2014 Share #10 Â Posted February 11, 2014 For what you paid for that lens by all means take it back. If I purchased that lens and experience those results that is what I would do.Mr. B Â Surely before going to the dealer it is best to take time to use a combination of the tests detailed above to determine whether a lens is back or front focussing or perhaps the rangefinder is out of calibration. Â In this way one has evidence, or at least narrowed down the problem, if any. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jean-Michel Posted February 11, 2014 Share #11 Â Posted February 11, 2014 An easy focus test chart is available, free, from Tim Jackson, go to his web site: focustestchart.com. Print the chart, focus, check. Simple. I add a vertical or diagonal line to the horizontal 'focus here" target to help rangefinder focusing. Jean-Michel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pop Posted February 11, 2014 Share #12 Â Posted February 11, 2014 You can just turn the sheet 90 degrees Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
colonel Posted February 11, 2014 Share #13  Posted February 11, 2014 I prefer the Jeffreys chart @ 25% Jeffrey Friedl's Blog  You need to test it on a different camera as well (at the dealer ?)  I just sent a newish 35mm summicron back, it back focuses (apparently where a lens is contributing to a focus problem it is normally backfocus, so I am told). Leica lent me a lens until mine is repaired  good luck Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted February 11, 2014 Share #14 Â Posted February 11, 2014 Is it an M (240)? If so, you can easily check against the EVF. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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