downstairs Posted November 30, 2013 Share #21 Â Posted November 30, 2013 Advertisement (gone after registration) Sonnar T50/1.5 (while waiting for an Apo50). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted November 30, 2013 Posted November 30, 2013 Hi downstairs, Take a look here Fav 50 for Monochrom. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Adrian Lord Posted November 30, 2013 Share #22 Â Posted November 30, 2013 Can't complain about my 50 lux. Â I must add here that for 35mm focal length the venerable summaron f3.5 is amazing despite it's vintage. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
platypus Posted November 30, 2013 Share #23 Â Posted November 30, 2013 Yes, very strange situation. The one I am using now seems to have one very very thin silver ring way down deep inside and no others. So far so good, but then I am not one to often shoot in a way that could induce flare either. Â As I really only use the APO50 for landscapes I do not particularly try avoid situations where flare might occur, and still the lens has been flare-less for months. Cogitating about this yesterday it occurred to me that the only difference between now and back in my early days of owning this lens (when the CVF incident occurred) I had not yet started using coloured filters on it. After some experimentation I now permanently use a medium red filter on the lens. At risk of asking a silly question....could it be possible that the red filter has some deadening effect on the reflection from the silver ring/rings or whatever else is causing the APO50 flare anomaly? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
algrove Posted December 1, 2013 Share #24 Â Posted December 1, 2013 Interesting thought. I often use an ND for color work with the lens on my M240 and get no flare. So maybe you are on to something as I often use orange for B&W work (MM). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanetomlane Posted December 12, 2013 Share #25 Â Posted December 12, 2013 50 Lux for me, although I also use the Nokton 1.1 Â Regards, Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
exile Posted December 12, 2013 Share #26 Â Posted December 12, 2013 I don't have an MM, but when I decide to specifically shoot mono in my M9 I love using my 1953 Jupiter3 either wide open or at f/2. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
helged Posted December 12, 2013 Share #27 Â Posted December 12, 2013 Advertisement (gone after registration) At risk of asking a silly question....could it be possible that the red filter has some deadening effect on the reflection from the silver ring/rings or whatever else is causing the APO50 flare anomaly? Â Would be interesting if you - or someone else of the APO50 owners - could do a few twin shot tests in conditions potentially prone to CVF. I will try, when time permits (and light conditions are challenging). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
platypus Posted December 13, 2013 Share #28 Â Posted December 13, 2013 Would be interesting if you - or someone else of the APO50 owners - could do a few twin shot tests in conditions potentially prone to CVF. I will try, when time permits (and light conditions are challenging). Â Regretfully I would have to decline, I really don't think I have the technical expertise to set up and carry out test shots that would stand up to the scrutiny of the technical gurus that frequent this forum. Â However I do think the answer to the APO 50's CVF problem is as simple as this: Step 1. Purchase a Monochrom (if you do not already own one) Step 2. Put a medium/dark red filter on your APO 50 Step 3. Put the APO 50 on the Monochrom and never again remove it. (this works like a charm....see my earlier post #23 on this thread) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonki-M Posted December 13, 2013 Share #29 Â Posted December 13, 2013 Summitar and 50 lux pre-asph v2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
helged Posted December 13, 2013 Share #30 Â Posted December 13, 2013 However I do think the answer to the APO 50's CVF problem is as simple as this: Step 1. Purchase a Monochrom (if you do not already own one) Step 2. Put a medium/dark red filter on your APO 50 Step 3. Put the APO 50 on the Monochrom and never again remove it. (this works like a charm....see my earlier post #23 on this thread) Â Point taken . I may do a few twin-tests since APO50, MM and some red-filters are in-house. I may also dare to show the results, despite imperfect setup and subsequent critique (that's what forums are for, at least for some of us...). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkP Posted December 13, 2013 Share #31 Â Posted December 13, 2013 I have four 50s to use on the Monochrom . I really should rationalise my lenses . Â 1.4/50 Summilux ASPH - best all round. Sharp, contrasty but manageable, huge amounts of detail. Very versatile. Really can't go wrong with this lens. Â 1.0/50 E60 Noctilux takes that sharp edge off the Monochrom sensor and it's lower contrast renders very gently (like charcoal drawing as someone described the 50 Noctilux and 75 Sumilux in another post) which really does justice to the tonal range of the Monochrom. Â 4.0-28-50 E49 MATE. Also lovely on the Monochrom. Rendering sits between the above two lenses. Â 1.5/50 ZM C-Sonnar. Still getting a handle on this lens on the Monochrom. Maybe a bit like the Summilux except softer like the older Mandler lenses when wide open. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
platypus Posted December 13, 2013 Share #32 Â Posted December 13, 2013 Point taken . (that's what forums are for, at least for some of us...). Â I quite agree....that's how it should be. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted December 14, 2013 Share #33 Â Posted December 14, 2013 50 lux ASPH and the 50 2.8 version 2 are my favorites. The Summicrion may be sharper by a little, but that is not everything Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted December 14, 2013 Share #34 Â Posted December 14, 2013 Another lens to consider is the Elmar-M collapsible. It has the advantage of putting a minimum of glass between your subject and your sensor which is exactly what the Monochrom is about - and it shows. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted December 14, 2013 Share #35 Â Posted December 14, 2013 Another lens to consider is the Elmar-M collapsible. It has the advantage of putting a minimum of glass between your subject and your sensor which is exactly what the Monochrom is about - and it shows. Â ... which leads to the FINAL SOLUTION... Skink Pinhole Pancake Pro Kit "Classic" - Leica Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkP Posted December 14, 2013 Share #36 Â Posted December 14, 2013 Another lens to consider is the Elmar-M collapsible. It has the advantage of putting a minimum of glass between your subject and your sensor which is exactly what the Monochrom is about - and it shows. Â Jaap, Â the M9/Monochrom and M240 manuals are quite clear that the only lens that can be collapsed into these cameras is the 4.0/90 Macro-Elmar-M. Â I've been interested in this lens for a while but am terrified that one day I'll collapse it into the camera and damage it. I know that I could use some tape on the barrel to prevent the lens fully collapsing but that compromises the lens compactness. Â Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sm23221 Posted December 15, 2013 Share #37 Â Posted December 15, 2013 There's no reason to be terrified. I collapse it all the time and have never had a problem - it really is safe! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
algrove Posted December 15, 2013 Share #38 Â Posted December 15, 2013 There's no reason to be terrified. I collapse it all the time and have never had a problem - it really is safe! Â Into which cameras do you collapse it, please? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
algrove Posted December 15, 2013 Share #39 Â Posted December 15, 2013 Regretfully I would have to decline, I really don't think I have the technical expertise to set up and carry outtest shots that would stand up to the scrutiny of the technical gurus that frequent this forum. Â However I do think the answer to the APO 50's CVF problem is as simple as this: Step 1. Purchase a Monochrom (if you do not already own one) Step 2. Put a medium/dark red filter on your APO 50 Step 3. Put the APO 50 on the Monochrom and never again remove it. (this works like a charm....see my earlier post #23 on this thread) Â Not a bad point at all. Â I must say that I often use a 0.9 (3 stop) ND filter on my APO 50 when shooting color. Perhaps this lessens CVF? Any expert advice as this is beyond me? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkP Posted December 15, 2013 Share #40 Â Posted December 15, 2013 Into which cameras do you collapse it, please? Â +1 Â sm, is that with both the M and M9 variants? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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