Jump to content

Leica M8, M8.2, M9, M9P, MM, M(Typ240) FAQs (Questions WITH Answers)

Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)



Is the effect of in camera lens correction visible in LiveView?




No, the effects of in camera correction of lens properties (by automatic detection or manual setting) is not visible in the "live" EVF image. Both vignetting and color correction are not performed in the "live" EVF image. In play mode of an exposed image, it is visible.


The effects of WhiteBalance setting and Film mode settings are directly visible in LiveView.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites



What is the underlying standard for the rangefinder focusing? .








YesThe standard is based around a 50mm lens and it's no coincidence Leica use a 50mm lens when aligning rangefinders and I have a chrome 50mm Summicron which I use only for the purposes of establishing which of my cameras is correctly aligned.


This is illustrated by the humble 50mm f2.8 Elmar, the simplest of all (recently) current lenses. In this lens, there is just a single helicoid and the rangefinder roller bears directly on the back of the lens barrel which does not itself rotate. When the lens is set to infinity, the barrel is as far back as it goes and at this point, the rangefinder should be coincident for objects at infinity. As the lens is focussed at closer distance, the lens barrel moves forward and the roller with it. The amount of lens extension is proportional to the focussing ring angle turned back from infinity which in turn depends on the pitch of the helicoid.


There's a classic formula in optics:


1/f = 1/u + 1/v


which is valid to a first approximation for camera lenses, f is the focal length, v and u are the object and image distance; plug the values in and you get a lens extension of 0.251mm at 10 metres distance, 2.631mm at 1 metre and 3.846mm at 0.7mm which defines the range of movement of the rangefinder roller required. You can plot a graph (I have one somewhere, I will publish it if I can find it) of lens extension against focussing distance. Interestingly, you can also plot the circumferential distances of the markings on the lens distance scale back from infinity against the marking values themselves and you get the same (approximately) graph.


This is then the simplest coupling between lens and camera. The camera never sees any different - there is a defined relationship between roller displacement and coincident distance set by this humble 50mm lens. Any "smarts" to handle the characteristics of particular lenses are built into the lenses themselves.


The most basic characteristic which has to be handled is focal length. The extension from infinity to close focus is much greater for a 90mm lens than for a 50mm lens and the extension for a 21mm lens is much less. However, for the rangefinder still to work, there has to be a surface on the back of the lens which moves through the same range as the lens barrel for the "reference" 50mm lens.


This is accomplished in two main ways. First, there can be a second helicoid which moves the surface against which the roller is pressing at a different rate to the lens barrel. At infinity, the lens barrel helicoid is set so that the lens focusses to infinity and the focussing helicoid is set so that the rangefinder is coincident at infinity. As the focussing ring is turned, the lens moves forward at one rate and the focussing surface at another. They are both still linked to the angular rotation of the focussing ring. The 75mm Summicron is a good example.


The second option if you don't want to go to the trouble of having a second helicoid is to arrange for the roller to press on a surface linked to the focussing ring which then rotates and is profiled so that as the focussing ring rotates, the roller moves as required. Examples are the 18mm Super-Elmar and the 90mm Elmar. The problem now is that the rangefinder roller can make contact at a slightly different lateral position depending on its own alignment and throw the focussing off, especially when the surface is steeply profiled. It works in the 90mm Elmar because the profiling is quite shallow and with the 18mm because of the depth of field available.


Things get tricky when you have a difficult lens like the old Noctilux or 75mm Summilux because optical variations meant not all copies behaved in the same way and the Noctilux is reputed to have had a hand-ground cam profile.


In the most complex lenses, such as the 21mm Summilux, it is not sufficient to just have the two helicoids because the lens has different focussing characteristics to the reference 50mm; in this case, they use a second focussing helicoid to get it in the right ball park AND profile the cam to get it exactly right.


Fundamentally though, the rangefinder characteristic which defines roller displacement against coincident distance goes back to that basic 50mm lens. It's cameras and lenses both adhering to that characteristic which is essential to allow lens interchangeability.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites


Manolo Laguillo


Athough written for the M9 it is very useful for M users.




as you requested I have sent you some advice both for use and workflow for your 2.8/28 PC-Super-Angulon-R. Hopefully, you will find it useful.


I am sure most, if not all, of what follows here is just common sense, and therefore redundant, but anyway here it goes:



1 Tripod


I assume you will use the lens with the camera mounted on a tripod. This will eliminate the unavoidable small variations in camera positioning that occur when hand-held.


This will also help to establish a fast and efficient technical routine (which is as broad and inclusive as possible in the sense that it is independent of any particular photogrpahic style) so that you won't need to think about the workflow every time.



2 Camera placement


Initially you should try to define your image left-to-right, move around the scene you want to photograph, and adjust distance to and angle towards the subject, a well as height from ground. As always, the image is first defined in your mind, ie. deciding what you want even before having used the camera as a framing tool. This is especially important with the 28PC and M9, as without live-view you will need to review the image after having taken the photograph and then make any necessary adjustments.


You first shoot in order to see what the photo will be like, and then, looking at the LCD, adjust the camera. The more experience you have with the 28mm focal length the better will be the initial positioning of the camera.


Finally, you will have the right position for the camera, which is that which produces the correct geometry for the final image you want. This is a very important point so please bear with me whilst I digress to explain two possibilities. One can either be true to the geometry of the main plane of the subject (ie the true frontal view of the façade of the building), or not be true to it's geometry. With the latter there is a 'shortening', or Scorzo in Italian, or Verkürzung in German. There is only one way to produce a true frontal view, but many ways of producing a Scorzo.


The Scorzo can be either a very small and almost unrecognizable departure from the true frontal view, or very large. In other words, the trapezoidal figure obtained from the original rectangle can be more or less irregular and bizarre depending on the degree of displacement from the true frontal view. The more from the side the photo is taken, the more bizarre the image and less recognizable will be the façade! This is why the most commonly sought image geometry is that delivered from the true frontal view, where the orthogonality of the façade is preserved, and the original rectangular front of the building becomes a true rectangle in the image. It takes some time and patience to develop the skill to achieve this more or less right from the beginning.



3 Level the Camera


Align the camera with the aid of a bubble level. A 3D head is better for obvious reasons. The ideal tripod head is one that will allow a panoramic movement without losing the level, and where the panoramic movement is directly under the camera, not under the head. The Arca-Swiss d4 is the one I use precisely because of this feature. But it's not essential if you don't have it as it's only a minor inconvenience having to readjust the level after adjusting the camera for framing.


It goes without saying that you will achieve the correct camera position and levelling by trial-and-error. Shoot and then go back to the LCD until you have the image you want. I find the quality of the M9's LCD to be adequate for this, but yes it could be better.


Now, when the camera is correctly positioned for the image you want (from left-to-right), it is time to adjust the lens.



4 Lens Exposure and Focus Settings


Meter the light with lens PC settings at zero. The diaphragm should be set to f11, but could be set to f8 if the shift is only going to be slight. There is a lever/switch on the lens that must be set to the down position - you will easily find this yourself. As the aperture setting of f11 is not variable, obviously only shutter speed (and ISO) is available to adjust for the correct exposure.


I assume you are photographing landscapes and cityscapes/buildings so the focus is, by default, set to infinity. It is always worthwhile using the lens-hood.



5 Lens - Shift Settings


So now let's shift! You are at ground level on the street and want to photograph a five storey building so you will need to shift the lens up. As the default lens position is for sideways shift it will need to be rotated. Personally, I like to have the knob pointing to the sky simply because it is convenient to have the f-stop and the distance scales to the right where the shutter-release is. In this way one only needs to move/look from behind the camera to the right of the lens and back again, rather than to both the left and right of the lens.


Shifting is a very straightforward procedure, again done by trial-and-error because there is no live-view. If we think about it, this step is simply a means of framing up-and-down! If you are on the top of a building and want to shoot looking down the lens will obvioulsy be shifted down. However, for some strange reason I nearly always avoid correcting verticals when looking down: as I do not find verticals converging towards the ground didtrubing.


You can of course shift laterally, applying the same principles as above.



6 Tips for Shift Settings


a. After gaining some experience with up-down and left-right movements you can try diagonals. Diagonal adjustments will shift simultaneously through the two planes, for example right and up if the lens is shifted diagonally towards 1:30 on the clock. The example you saw in the forum was exactly this - right & up. Schneider recommends that with these combined diagonal shifts one should not shift beyond 9mm.


b. There is a rule-of-thumb when working with a view camera that one should avoid shifting if tilting the lens axis more than ±30° such as with a taller building. This is because the resulting image would look 'artificial' but this is not a problem with 28 PC-R because it can only shift to a maximum of 11mm. Not that this is an inconsiderable shift being nearly 50% of 24mm which is of course the short length of a 24mmx36 full-frame. It is of course possible to combine lens shifting with tilting the camera up in these more extreme situations. The shift will lessen the convergence without totally eliminating it.


c. In some instances it is better to avoid a 100% correction of vertical convergence because if overdone it can appear as if a vertical convergence towards the ground is happening. The classic example is a tall building seen in such a way that it appears as a ship's prow, ie. aggresively pointing towards the camera. Because of the 'fish spine' configuration of horizontal lines, even if vertical lines are perfectly parallel, the verticals seem to converge towards the ground. This effect can be avoided easily by not trying to attempt a full 100% correction of vertical convergence. This is comparable to the 'entasis' applied by the old greeks to their temple architecture.




I hope you find this helpful!

Warm regards from Barcelona.








This has been written for those who want to try using a PC lens on the M9 and already believes that this is worthwhile. For those who are still to be converted I include this final reflection on: Why use a PC lens on the M9?


Which is easier, using a PC lens on a DSLR or on an M9? The answer is obvious - on a DSLR. But we are not speaking about the obvious, but of a solution that is much more interesting precisely because it is not obvious!


I like the M9's quality, I like it's small size, and it's the camera I own. This is an important point! I don't own a Nikon 800 or Canon 5DIII or equivalent because I don't want or need them. The price of a 2nd hand PC such as the 28 PC-R is much lower than those camera bodies. This lens is an excellent compromise - with a trade-off of what I find to be only a minor inconveninece in use, it adds only 800 gm to my bag, and is like having a very small view camera at hand. Using this lens allows me to take advantage of the M9's small size and image quality but give me the option of a PC lens.


I don't consider this as being against the 'M philosophy,' but actually quite the opposite. Everything can be looked at from different or divergent (pardon the PC lens pun) point of view. As photographers, we know this very well...

The combination of a M9 with a PC lens may seem bizarre at first, but it isn't if we think a little bit about it, or better yet, try it. This combination requires experience and practice, but can be very rewarding if you are willing to climb that steep learning curve.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Question: Farnz.


Will my M Bellows II fit directly onto the M (Typ 240)?



Answer: Farnz.


Yes it will but BEWARE: you will not be able to remove the Bellows II without dismantling it because the bellows back plate completely covers the M (Typ 240)'s lens release button.


If you fit the OUFRO (16469) Visoflex extension ring to the camera and the Bellows II to the OUFRO then this will provide enough space to operate the lens release button.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites


Auto ISO doesn't work. I've removed the battery, changed the card, reseted the camera and vilified Leica a couple times on the LUF, to no avail.


1. Don't panic dude;

2. Select the A position of your shutter speed dial;

3. If nothing changes, simply remove your lens;

4. Put your lens back on the camera;

5. That's all folk;

6. Don't ask me why it works.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Question: What SD card should I use?




The fastest you can get. The camera is limited by the speed of the card and will be more responsive with a fast card.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Question: How do I store and not lose the camera hot shoe/EVF connector protective cover when using the EVF2 viewfinder.


Answer: It's important to replace the hot shoe/EVF connector cover when the auxiliary EVF2 viewfinder is not used. The cover contains a neoprene sealing gasket that keeps moisture etc. out of the camera body.


The hot shoe cover is a slot-in fit to the protective cover of the EVF2 and the combination can be safely stored in the (now) empty EVF2 pouch.




Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites



I just received my new SF 24D flash, and loving it on my Monochrom.

I use my flash for a small amount of fill flash in certain situations, and need to get hold of a good charger for the, I suppose - CR123A, batteries and a Omnibounce for the flash.





The SF 24 D will not function with rechargeable batteries. You need to get the normal lithium ones. And no charger. Leicagoodies make a diffuser for the flash.



Edit: There are reports that some rechargeable batteries will work. A matter of trial and error.

Edited by jaapv

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites


Do I need to use a screen saver on the M (typ 240)? If I do, or wish the extra protection, which one would you recommend?



We all know about the special glass used on the monitor of this camera but if you read the threads others have written, you will find that it does scratch. I highly recommend you use a screen saver and the one provided by my Leica dealer here in Korea seems to work very well. It is the screen saver for the Panasonic Lumix TZ digital 30 camera. Its size is 66.5 X 48.5. The stock number on the contianer lists it as Japan Etsumi Stock No. E7145.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
On the m8.2 I have I:


Turn the camera on.

Press the right arrow key 4 times.

Press the left arrow key 3 times.

Press the right arrow key 1 more time.

Press the info button.

Scroll down to body debug data.

Press Set.

Scroll down to NUMEXPOSURES.


Turn camera off to exit........




I will try to shed some light on the service menus on the M8 and M8.2 (they are almost identical, the M9 and M220 are similar as well, but not the M240). They are used regularly for diagnoses and for assuring a repair went ok. Select a service function by pressing SET. The rest of the camera does not know the service mode is activated and carries on as usual with light metering, preparing for data capture, etc.



Firmware Info

Names and compilation/build dates of on-board software. There are module dates for the boot loader FSL (RedBoot, loads first to load the other modules, should be from June 30, 2006), the main CPU (Intel PXA270, sw should be ver 2.014, May 30, 2011), the Blackfin BF-561 DSP (sw should be ver 2.60R, Jan 16, 2008), and the NEC/Renesas M16C/60 micro controller (sw should be ver 2.205, Dec 4, 2009), but not for the user interface (GUI) or the look-up table (LUTS). The most frequently updated one is the main CPU software module.

Last on the screen will be your serial number. It should match the number on the accessory shoe, else there is a mismatch between chassis and main board. They are always aligned when changing a main board.

Exit by pressing the shutter release gently.



Calib Info

Calibration of the D/A-converters for the CCD.




Body Debug Data

(Scroll up and down with arrow buttons)

BVIntern shows the light value as seen through the lens and BVExtern as seen by the small light sensor on the front (the blue dot) seeing about the same as a 35 mm lens. Raw is the D/A readout and normal is the calculated normalised EV value.

Temperature is the temp protection D/A readout from the CCD board and normal is the calculated normalised value.

Battery state is the charge level 0-4 (also shown graphical on the top plate).

Main switch is the position of the switch around the shutter release: Off, Single, Continous (yes, American spelling), and SelfTimer.

Exposure mode: read from the shutter speed dial: Auto, Bulb, Manual, Simple (M8.2 only, we call it Stupid).

Body exposure time: read from the shutter speed dial: from 1/4000 to 6. Auto and Simple are read as 1/4000. There is a bug in that it forgets to update this for Bulb.

BodyAperture is the software’s guess on the lens aperture based on BVIntern and BVExtern. Fails sometimes, occasionally miserably. The M8 cannot know but tries to infer the current aperture from difference in light through lens and outside of lens. Of course prone to errors. The guess will stay within the f-stop boundaries of an identified lens. Coded as a logarithmic scale with f/1.0 as 0 and then an increment of 1 for each stop, for example f/2.8 is 3. Measured to nearest half stop, so f/0.95 is still 0. Interpreting software should know that a newer Noctilux is max f/0.95, not f/1.0.

FlashPresent is the detection of a Leica flash.

LensCode is a value derived from the lens type and the 6-bit code of the lens (from 000001 to 111110). The 6-bit code is read from left to right looking at the lens from behind. The 6-bit code 000000 is reserved for a non-coded lens and 111111 for future extensions so there are 62 possible encodings. The coding is white=0 and black=1, this way uncoded lenses with a blank bayonet becomes 000000 in case lens detection is left on. The LensCode consists of the LensType and the 6-bit code. The LensType for Leica M lenses is 01 if detected and 00 if undetected (=old Leica or other manufacturer). The LensCode is the 6-bit code shifted two positions left and the LensType added. Example: TriElmar MATE 28-35-50 is 6-bit=101010 of type Leica=01. Shift two positions left and add 00000001 yields 10101001. Read this as binary to obtain 169 as the LensCode.

Note: If Lens detection + IV/UR is On, the LensCode 65 (Tri-Elmar WATE 16-18-21) brings up the focal length selection dialogue even in diagnostic mode due to it being implemented in the software as an interrupt upon lens mounting, not as part of the normal lens code interpretation software function.

Also note: In the EXIF MakerNote data, LensType is replaced by FrameLines (00-11).

ReleaseSwitch is the state of the shutter release button. Four states possible: Idle, Active, Store, Release. (If you try Release, it will actually record an image…)

You find the most popular entry here, NumExposures = number of pictures taken.

Last is the conversion ratio (BVSlope) between the D/A readout (of BVIntern) and the normalised value. This is calibrated individually to match the body. For example, if BVSlope = 36.50 and BVIntern Raw = 350 yields a normalised EV value of 0.50, then Raw = 600 yields 0.50 + (600-350)/36.50 = 7.35 rounded to the nearest quarter = 7.25. (Real numbers are shown in German, using ‘,’ instead of ‘.’ for the decimal point).

Exit Body Debug Data by pressing SET.



Production Test

Here you can test all the switches on the body. The red LED will blink constantly. In the VF, all display segments flash in a dual pattern. Pressing buttons will be echoed on the graphic of the body on the display. 6 back buttons, 4 directional buttons. The thumbwheel will be seen as an arrow up or down depending on the direction rotated. The power switch will display its state (same as in Body Debug Data: Off, Single, Continous, SelfTimer). The shutter speed dial will display its state (same as in Body Debug Data: Auto, Bulb, Simple (M8.2 only), or manual which shows as M plus the speed). The shutter release is shown in colour for the four states possible: Idle=green, Active=orange, Store=red, Release=disappears. (If you press to Release, it will not record an image here.) The SD card detection switch is displayed as a white “card” below the directional pad if a card is inserted. The bottom lid switch is displayed as an extra underlining under the graphic of the body if the lid is in place. Finally, you find the test of the landscape/portrait switch which shows as a white square in the graphic “screen” showing one of its three positions together with a funny sound.

Exit by power off.



Sensor test

Initially displays the LensCode (explained above), the name of the lens (in German spelling: “Objektiv Name”) and its lens data and Leica parts number (but “Uncoded” in English if LensType=00 such as Zeiss, Voigtlander and uncoded Leica) plus the BodyAperture from Body Debug Data. For example “Objektiv Name: 4/16-18-21 11626” or “Objektiv Name: 2.0/50; 11819/11825/11826/11816”. Inconsistent, some with half-stop after focal length, some not. Some with decimal f-stop, some not. Do not run this test.

Exit by pressing SET.



Display test

Tests all pixels on the LCD screen. Cycles through 6 screens by pressing the left and right arrow buttons. White, black, red, green, blue, white with frame.

Exit by pressing the shutter release.



EEPROM check

Performs a test of the EEPROM on entry. Writes a test data pattern, reads the data, compares the data read to what was written. Displays a green square for each successful step, a red square for a failed step. Overwrites essential data in memory. You should exit by power off, not by pressing the release button to take a picture.



Hardware IDs

CCD ID: 0 = Kodak KAF-10500 CCD, the only one used in M8 / M8.2.

CCD Board ID: There are three CCD board versions, 0-2, all introduced during M8. No change for M8.2.

Control board ID: Only one version = 0.

M16C ID: Only one flash memory version = 0.

Exit by pressing the shutter release.



BF Status On/Off

Toggles showing the Blackfin DSP operation status on the display or not. Shows read/write operations at the top and the auto white balance plus exposure value at the bottom of the screen. Shows the read/write operations of the color channels in real time as an image is processed after the shutter closes. Bars grow from left to right as each image completes. They are in blue if the read/write goes on without interruption and in red if there is an error (for example due to overruns or processor congestion). This mode remains active until set off.

No exiting as this is a toggle switch.



Two Channel Corr. Off (On)

The CCD readout can be made in different ways/modes yielding different levels of noise and/or risk of banding. There is a correction function to minimise the effect without reducing speed. which is normally activated. This function toggles the correction on and off by pressing SET. I’m sorry there is very little documentation on this, not used during service. If I find out more, I will edit this post.



Finally, note that the service menu is called up by the INFO button that normally starts the guide function in the Stupid (sorry, meant Simple) mode. When these two collide, the service menu takes precedence due to its implementation overriding the button interpretation function.




Hope this does help. Play at your own risk.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Question: by bab


Just an FYI.....


I find my M240 when set to Classic and Center Weighted shooting in the vertical position exposes +1/3 to +2/3 to the right. And when in the Horizontal position it exposes -1/3 to -2/3 to the left underexposed.

I also see that with the background being mostly white or a lot of the background white the image tends to overexpose from the meter reading when shooting with my 50 lux but when I'm shooting with my 21mm its still underexposed by -1/3 to -2/3 of a stop.




Answer:by Jaapv



The metering field in centreweighed mode is oval ( see the FAQ: http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-m9-forum/130720-leica-m8-m8-2-m9-m9p-4.html#post1997160 )

When you hold the camera vertical considerably more of fore- and background will be considered for the exposure than when you hold the camera horizontally. So yes, your findings are logical.

An exposure meter will measure objectively. It is up to the user to understand the system and interpret the readings.

Images which have a pronounced light intensity difference ( the proverbial black horse in the snow,or the bright light in the night) will need to be interpreted by the user and have an appropriate correction of the measured value applied. Due to the wider angle of view this effect is more pronounced on wideangles.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites



My new M240 arrived yesterday but I'm not sure whether or not it is malfunctioning. Can anyone please advise with respect to the following:


1. When I turn on the camera, sometimes the monitor displays as per normal but other times it doesn't display anything (though it does still work in autoreview and play modes). Any idea which setting I saraskohould be checking (or is this a camera fault?)?


2. When I turn on the camera, sometimes you hear a noise (like the cocking of a shutter). When this occurs and you press the shutter release, you hear the normal shutter sound plus a second delayed sound, similar to the sound at startup. Again, any ideas which setting can change this (or is this a fault?)?


3. Lastly, my test shots thus far have shown quite a bit of blur at the edges of the image as well as some possible distortion. I'm using a 35mm summicron-asph and I'm coming from a film Leica environment and these issues do not occur with my M7. Is this just a given with this camera or again a potential fault?


Note that I have read the manual, checked battery, FAQs online, but still can’t resolve these issues so any help is appreciated.


By Parasko





It depends on how your settings are.


If you have live View activated it will open the shutter (sound) and display the image and when you have not the screen will remain blank and the camera silent. (manual!)


As for the blur you are seeing: a 24 MP sensor is so much more precise then film that you will see lens faults that you cannot see on film, especially if you look at pixel level at 100%.

The blur you are seeing would be visible on film albeit not as defined, if you blew up the negative to 1.5 meters wide and inspected it from 20 cm distance. Don’t worry, your Summicron will produce superb prints.

Edited by jaapv

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites


I just received my new SF 24D flash, and loving it on my Monochrom.

I use my flash for a small amount of fill flash in certain situations, and need to get hold of a good charger for the, I suppose - CR123A, batteries and a Omnibounce for the flash.





The SF 24 D will not function with rechargeable batteries. You need to get the normal lithium ones. And no charger. Leicagoodies make a diffuser for the flash.



I'm sorry but this is incorrect information. Rechargeable CR123A batteries can be used in SF24D. I have been doing so for three or more years with mine. I am using generic no-name rechargeables that came with their own charger.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites


I cannot get the M240 to update its firmware and I cannot open the file.




I would say the trouble is people trying to open the file.

The way to do this:


You may want to save your presets to an SD card.


1.Format a card in the camera.

2.Take a picture.

3.Put the card in the card reader, switch camera off.

4.Download the file from Leica's website.

5.Open the downloads folder.

6.Open the SD card.

7.Drag the file from the Downloads Folder into the SD Card Window, next to the DCIM folder.

8.Eject card properly.

9.Insert the card in the camera

10.Push Info, hold and switch the camera on.

11.After the update has completed, take a picture with the same card in the camera.



Addition by Roey

Edited by jaapv

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Question: How do I set Auto ISO on the M (type 240)?


1. This may require an update to the firmware. When my camera arrived, it had version installed. This version will only set the ISO when A(uto) is selected for the shutter setting. Also see posting #105, above.

2. If you wish to have auto ISO when setting the shutter speed, for example to 1/180, you must:

3. Update the firmware. I updated to version for this purpose.

4. Click the SET button. You will be positioned at the ISO setting line.

5. Click the INFO button.

6. Dial the ISO settings until you get AUTO.

7. You MUST now set all the settings on the 3 lines below this one, Max ISO, Max Exp, and Auto ISO in M mode, as follows:

8. Use the down arrow (under the INFO button) to go to the next line. Dial the Max ISO setting desired.

9. Use the down arrow to go to the next line. Dial the Max Exposure Time. I used 1/focal length. This causes some work when I use lenses that are not coded. The lens must be selected in the Menu options.

10. Use the down arrow to go to the next line. Dial to select On.

11. Touch the shutter to complete the actions.

Edited by wparsonsgisnet

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

How can I change the file numbering?


1. Set the Picture Number in the menu to "Standard".

2. Format the SD card in camera.

3. Reset the File Number in the menu. It actually says “Reset fold. No”, that is the one you want.

4. Set Picture Number back to "Continuous"

5. Take one image

6. Shut off camera, remove SD card and place in card reader attached to a computer.

7. Access the image in your Finder or Explorer (Mac or PC); rename the image number to whatever file number/image number you want. I would suggest Lyyyxxxx, with "y" being your preferred folder number (See Note Below) and "x" being the frame number you want to start with. (You are making these changes to the file name on the card in the card reader.)




If you want to change the first or second digit of the L100 (Lyyy above) in the file name, like to L200 or 120 or 220, then you have to change the folder name also.

The directory/folder structure on the card when in a card reader is [Drive Letter]:\DCIM\100LEICA\. You need to change the 100LEICA to whatever you want the file number to start with. Like if you want it to be L200xxxx then you need to rename that folder to 200LEICA. If you want L120 then you need to change that folder name to 120LEICA. It would look like this [Drive Letter]:\DCIM\120 or 200LEICA.


8. Properly remove card from card reader and return to camera.

9. Turn the camera on and press "Play". The file will now display with newly renamed folder and file number. (Use "Info" to see this data.)

10. Expose another image to confirm and check file numbers.

11. Format SD card, and you are good to go from that point on.



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites


Help! I used a card from Sony in my M camera and now I get lockups and blank files!




From the beginning of digital time it has been best practice to:


1. Lock the card before downloading.

2. Format the card in the camera, especially after using the card in another camera (even of the same brand!) or after formatting on the computer. Best to use camera-dedicated cards.

3. Only deep format the card on the computer by using SD Formatter. Only do so if there is a need, like capacity loss or corrupted files on the card. Never use the computer OS formats.

4. Never delete files from the card in the computer; use delete on the camera sparingly if at all, wipe your card by in-camera formatting.

5. Whatever you do, your camera is a computer, it can hang itself just like your computer can go into a spinning ball or a blue screen.In that case just switch off and on or if that fails to work remove the battery, wait 30 seconds and reinsert.


And above all: if a card misbehaves throw it in the dustbin! (read: dispose of it in an environmentally sustainable manner


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Question by ROK

Ive just noticed that once I turn on my camera approx 3 seconds later I hear the shutter opening?/closing?



Answer by Vec


The standard metering is reading off of the reflected light from the painted shutter blades that you see when you take off the lens. This is simply a center-weighted metering.

    The advanced metering uses the sensor -- so essentially you're in live view without the display on as far as the camera is concerned. After it meters with the sensor information it needs to close and re-cock the shutter, then actually take the picture normally, then re-open the shutter for the metering for the next shot. All the shutter sounds are this dance playing out when you take a picture. When you turn the camera on the shutter opens to turn on the advanced metering in this mode as well.



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites


Can any one explain the choices under the ISO menu, specifically the Maximum Exposure Time. This was added with the software upgrade


by Exodies

With auto ISO the camera tries to use as low a value as possible to keep noise down. It only cranks up the ISO when the exposure time is greater than the maximum you choose.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/7/2010 at 12:44 AM, jaapv said:

Question: I come from an autofocus camera background. What is the best way to get good focus on an M camera?


The Leica M works the same way as any rangefinder camera, the central patch in the viewfinder is your focusing tool.

It is important to look through the viewfinder in the optical axis. Looking into the camera skewed will result in inaccurate focus.


The first thing to do is to ascertain that you can see the rangefinder patch properly. A correct match between the rangefinder and your eye is even more important than it is using an SLR.

Leica sells corrective diopter lenses. Determining which one you need - if any- can be done by going to your optician and holding his try-out lenses between your eye and the viewfinder. The one that allows you to see the rangefinder patch and framelines sharply is the correct one. Order the nearest value from Leica. In a pinch you can use over-the-counter reading glasses for this test. If your eyes need special corrections, you can use your spectacles, provided you can see clearly at 2 metres distance ( the virtual distance of the rangefinder patch). Note that the background will be at background distance,so your eye should ideally be able to accomodate over the distance differential. However, there is some tolerance here.


For special cases there are viewfinder magnifiers. They can help, especially with longer and fast lenses and they can give confidence, but they can also be not very useful; they cannot correct errors in the focusing mechanism or your eye, in fact they magnify them.

Also, one loses contrast and brightness.

Leica offers a 1.25x one and a 1.4x. These need dioptre correction like the camera, but often of a different value than the camera viewfinder. There are special dioptres for astigmatism sold by Walterleica.


There are also third-party magnifiers, sold by Japan Exposures, that include a variable diopter correction. 1.15x and 1.35x. For patent reasons they cannot be sold in the USA and Germany for use on a Leica camera, but they can be purchased for use on for instance a rifle scope.


Basically, for an experienced user, magnifiers are not needed and will only lower contrast and brightness, but many users do like and use them.


Once the viewfinder is corrected optimally, there are three methods of focusing, in ascending order of difficulty aka training.


1. The broken line method. Look for a vertical line in the image and bring it together in the rangefinder patch to be continuous.


2. The coincidence method. Look for a pattern in the image and bring it together to coincide. This may lead to errors with repeating patterns.


3. The contrast method. Once you have focus by method 1. or 2. a small adjustment will cause the rangefinder patch to "jump" into optimum contrast. At that point you have the most precise focussing adjustment.


Side remark:


If you try focusing on a subject emitting polarized light like a reflection it may happen that the polarizing effect of the prism system in the rangefinder will blot out the contrast in the rangefinder patch, making focusing difficult. In that case rotate the camera 90 degrees to focus.






Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue., Read more about our Privacy Policy