chris_livsey Posted April 19, 2011 Share #381 Posted April 19, 2011 (edited) Advertisement (gone after registration) I always chickened out by the looks through it's finder, which is quite a bit smaller than the one of the F3, F5 and D3, which are gorgeous. Yet again I found what may be a fix, not got one yet but working on the M8 magnifier which I use this has potential: Nikon Dk-17M Magnifying Eyepiece: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics I have looked at the D7000 great reviews, on paper a steal but in real life it looks and feels like a toy. I even find the F100 a bit "flimsy" after the F4. Light tight boxes fashioned from bricks inspire confidence and a steady hand at slow speeds. Edited April 19, 2011 by chris_livsey spulling Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted April 19, 2011 Posted April 19, 2011 Hi chris_livsey, Take a look here Anatomy of the Leica M8. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
menos I M6 Posted April 19, 2011 Share #382 Posted April 19, 2011 Yet again I found what may be a fix, not got one yet but working on the M8 magnifier which I use this has potential: Nikon Dk-17M Magnifying Eyepiece: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics I have looked at the D7000 great reviews, on paper a steal but in real life it looks and feels like a toy. I even find the F100 a bit "flimsy" after the F4. Light tight boxes fashioned from bricks inspire confidence and a steady hand at slow speeds. I have the DK17M and also a 1.4 Leica magnifier. I don't use both, as they do magnify the view indeed, but make it a lot more difficult, to see the edge of the frame (metering and framing becomes an issue). The DK17M only fits Nikons professional bodies with big, round viewfinder attachment. It will not fit a D7000 without hacking something together. I hated this aspect already, when I wanted, to improve the tiny DX viewfinder back with a D300. If you prefer bricks, have a closer look at the D2x (more than the D2h and slower at speed, but a beautiful 12MP sensor). It has a similar burst rate, like the D7000, but weights more, which you might like ;-) Man, is this discussion OT ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_livsey Posted April 20, 2011 Share #383 Posted April 20, 2011 Man, is this discussion OT ! Yes but the D2x is twice the price, probably more than twice the camera admitted, but the exercise is "interesting toy" if the bugs bites the D3 will be a goer - as soon as the D4 is out and the market is awash. If not it's cheap enough to keep for those niche shoots without thinking which Leica glass I could have had instead. Didn't the "Online photographer" do a piece a while ago about how for many who post online and never print higher than postcard 4MP was enough ? I could always get a second mortgage and put an 80MP back on the 'blad. Stopping now, the mods have been too kind to let this run, to them thanks and to members who have restrained from complaining as well. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgbossert Posted October 6, 2012 Share #384 Posted October 6, 2012 Ruben It certainly would be possible to provide a manual winder attachment to clip on to the base in place of the base plate. Looking at the underside, all that would be required would be to leave the motor switched off and move the lever in the direction shown. Maybe an M8 equivalent of the Leicavit? The idea of a Leicavit or better Tom's Rapidwinder sounds very interesting. Just made a video of the lever in action: Leica M8 shutter cocking lever with motor sound - YouTube I currently try to build a blimp for the M8 for silent recording sessions. But a manual clocking would also solve the problem, as the most disturbing noise comes from the little motor and not the shutter itself. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted October 6, 2012 Share #385 Posted October 6, 2012 I currently try to build a blimp for the M8 for silent recording sessions. But a manual clocking would also solve the problem, as the most disturbing noise comes from the little motor and not the shutter itself. Interesting! Keep us informed of your progress, please. Here is a prototype blimp made for the M3. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgbossert Posted October 6, 2012 Share #386 Posted October 6, 2012 Interesting! Keep us informed of your progress, please. Here is a prototype blimp made for the M3. Very interesting! But the M3 is much more quiet. Saldy the M8 is awful noisy! I ordered a little smaller Peli case than this one: FxF Blog: My Sound Blimp Tutorial And I ordered two different acoustic foams to buid a sandwich of 1cm composite foam one layer of bitumen and 1cm of special acoustic foam. Within an airtight hardcase this should be enough to make the camera quiet. The one at the link above used weaker foam and made a DSLR nearly silent. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted October 7, 2012 Share #387 Posted October 7, 2012 Advertisement (gone after registration) Very interesting! But the M3 is much more quiet. Saldy the M8 is awful noisy! I didn't know that. Every camera is quiet to me. I ordered a little smaller Peli case than this one:FxF Blog: My Sound Blimp Tutorial And I ordered two different acoustic foams to buid a sandwich of 1cm composite foam one layer of bitumen and 1cm of special acoustic foam.[...] When I built cars I used certified aircraft sealed-cell foam to soundproof the vehicle - plus some plastic coated thin lead plates cemented to certain body panels to dampen resonance. I don't know anything about bitumen. Guess I'll learn up! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgbossert Posted October 9, 2012 Share #388 Posted October 9, 2012 This would be a great starting point for a blimp... but for $ 8.000 too expensive :-( DEMA 2008: Epoque World Co DEMA 2008: Epoque World Co DEMA 2008: Epoque World Co (for the 28 Elmarit and 35 + 50 Summarit) Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted October 10, 2012 Share #389 Posted October 10, 2012 For sound proofing, there is a foam and vinyl made for marine use with a lead foil core. It is called lead mass loaded foam/vinyl. Wilson Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgbossert Posted October 12, 2012 Share #390 Posted October 12, 2012 For sound proofing, there is a foam and vinyl made for marine use with a lead foil core. It is called lead mass loaded foam/vinyl. Wilson Thanks Wilson! I did some research and found out that bitumen absorbs even more sound than lead. But mass loaded is interesting. I tried a sandwich of bitumen and two layers of foam. Works well. (Some special plastic foils should even work more effective than bitumen but I have not found any to buy yet). I will start a new thread those days for the blimp. Best, Gottlieb Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted October 12, 2012 Share #391 Posted October 12, 2012 (edited) For sound proofing, there is a foam and vinyl made for marine use with a lead foil core. It is called lead mass loaded foam/vinyl. Wilson That is a very important contribution! I will look into it. I pulled some of the interior panels off of my new car because, well I have the time and the tools, and was looking for electricals to tap into, and found some strategically placed coated heavy-metal plates epoxied to various spots on the outer skin. Clever, these Japanese are. Mass loaded is the key. Now I have a lead to follow as I finish my hand-built car - the tragedy that is it anyway. Oh, since that photo the front wheels have been set-out another half-inch. Signing out now. Long day. . Edited October 12, 2012 by pico Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgbossert Posted October 13, 2012 Share #392 Posted October 13, 2012 (edited) For you pico: Translated and the german original: Schallschutz, K Edited October 13, 2012 by jgbossert 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted October 13, 2012 Share #393 Posted October 13, 2012 Thanks for the translation, Gottlieb. I've enough leads now to pursue local sources. The Bitumen film looks promising for certain areas of the car (which I am told is already very quiet). OT - I wonder how much of the Leica M really needs to be enclosed to adequately muffle the shutter and winder. Strategic placement of materials it might produce a surprisingly compact unit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted October 13, 2012 Share #394 Posted October 13, 2012 Pico, Be careful with bitumen film. I bought an expensive Musical Fidelity CD player, that supposedly had been upgraded by a company, who should have known what they were doing. Not only did it not sound as good as it should but within 6 months had deteriorated to the point where it was unusable. I sent it to the guy who normally does any upgrading HiFi work I need doing. It was a nightmare inside. Not only had the upgrades all been done wrongly but the idiot had used low melting point bitumen film as sound damping on the housing. It had partially melted and draped itself all over the circuitry and looked like a Salvador Dali picture. I have no idea how Colin managed to clean it all off but in addition to the work to do all the upgrades correctly I had a substantial bill for cleaning labour and solvents. The original upgrader had unsurprisingly, given the appalling standard of his work, gone bust by this time. Wilson 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgbossert Posted October 19, 2012 Share #395 Posted October 19, 2012 Just started a new thread about my Leica M8 / M9 sound blimp project ... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chipchip Posted October 20, 2012 Share #396 Posted October 20, 2012 So thats good to see. No matter how handy one is if it goes wrong send it back to Leica. Dont put your fingers in there! You obviously know what you are doing. When you get it back together let us know, and see if it works. Thanks for an informative project. Will look forward to seeing a pic when its in one piece again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddog88 Posted February 15, 2014 Share #397 Posted February 15, 2014 Mark, Just found out about this. Great post! I have an M9, are you going to do an "Anatomy of the M9" in the near future? I would love to see how can I lift the top plate off to clean some dust and tiny fibers that somehow ended up in my viewfinder. Or is it the same procedure like this M8? (two screws from the bottom)? Any ideas? Best regards Milos Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marknorton Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share #398 Posted February 16, 2014 Scary that this old thread is nearly 7 years old. There's not much point doing one on the M9 because the design and structure of the M9 is very similar; updated electronics plus of course the larger sensor. The structure of the M Typ 240 is fundamentally different and you cannot get into it without removing the covering. ASAIK, Camera Leather do not do replacements yet, not even sure if they are still in business. If you want to clean the inside of the viewfinder, you will need to remove the plastic plate in the base, 5 screws and the top cover, two screws, the one nearest the end in the battery compartment and the one at the top of a hole exposed when that plate is removed. Mind the flexprint which connects the top of the camera to the rest of it and, especially, keep your fingers off the insides of the viewfinder windows which are difficult to clean. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddog88 Posted February 16, 2014 Share #399 Posted February 16, 2014 Thank you Mark! I appreciate you taking the time to reply even after your work is done seven years ago! I just wanted to be sure I won't find any spring bombs when I carefully remove the top. The little fibers I have in my VF are annoying me and I'll be extra careful using helping hand to hold sensitive parts in mid air in order not to break the flat cable or any connectors. I just needed to know what you confirmed: 5 screws to remove the plastic bottom cover and two screws for the top plate - like the M8. Many thanks! Milos Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianUK Posted February 16, 2014 Share #400 Posted February 16, 2014 Mark, Thank you! Not only very instructive but the accompanying images are some of the best macros I have seen in illustration of your article. Congratulations! What impresses and amazes me every time I see the innards of a camera is that a team of designers have worked together to solve problems both in fitting all of the necessary components into a workable body, and in their manufacture and assembly, often with tiny tolerances. Quite honestly I almost dumbfounded as to how they do it, especially in the various digital M models where the Leica technicians and designers have done it using the M body we know and love… and that, for the most part, all of this is taken pretty much for granted. Your wonderful stripdown, and explanations and photos quite rightly show how incredibly difficult all of this work is, and what a superb piece of precision manufacture is now routine. Once again, thank you. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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