Summilux 35mm FLE and polarising filter

[LocalHero1953]

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I have just bought a Hoya 46mm circular polarising filter to use with my summilux 35mm FLE (on a M9), and I find that the hood for the summilux will not fit over the attached filter.

I am in the habit of carrying the camera without the lens cap, ready to shoot, and the hood itself gives me enough reassurance of protection of the front element. Without it, I risk scratching/breaking the filter, and of course there is risk of flare.

 

Has anyone got a solution to fitting the filter and hood together?

[StephenPatterson]

Yes, put the filter back in the case and reattach the hood to your 35 FLE. It's impossible to use a circular polarizing filter with a rangefinder, unless you are manually holding it in front of the lens.

[01af]

It's impossible to use a circular polarizing filter with a rangefinder ...

With the new M, it is

 

But then, Paul is using an M9, and with this camera (or any rangefinder except the new M), using an E46 polariser on an E46 lens doesn't make much sense indeed.

[CalArts 99]

It's impossible to use a circular polarizing filter with a rangefinder, unless you are manually holding it in front of the lens.

 

It's quite possible but a little awkward. I used a Heliopan with numerical index markings on a 6x9 rangefinder with reversal film quite a bit. You simply look at the subject through the filter (not manually through the lens) and note the numbers, and then attach it to the lens with the numbers aligned exactly the same. It actually does work perfectly well and it's why they make them that way. But yeah, it's definitely a bit slow.

 

And then there's this expensive unit Leica Universal Top (Linear) Polarizer Glass Filter - for M

[wattsy]

It's impossible to use a circular polarizing filter with a rangefinder

 

Sorry, but that's bollocks. If you are not seeking absolute precision, it is very easy to use a polariser with a RF. You don't even need to take the filter off. Instead, just observe how the meter is reacting as you turn the polariser. With a little practice and experience it is easy to judge the points that you are getting maximum and minimum polarisation.

 

As far as the 35 FLE goes, I don't think you will be able to avoid removing the hood whilst you have the polarising filter in place. It's just one of those little compromises you have to live with.

[StephenPatterson]

Ok, I see the anoraks are out in force.

 

OP is using an M9, so answer is directed at that.

 

Yes, you can manually set the filter and reattach, but that's not what the OP was asking.

 

And trying to set the polarizer via the meter on the M9 truly is truly bollocks. Much more precise to use CalArts 99's method instead or simply hand hold the filter.

[wattsy]

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And trying to set the polarizer via the meter on the M9 truly is truly bollocks.

 

Has worked for me. Nothing anorak about it either.

[mmradman]

Has worked for me. Nothing anorak about it either.

 

Worked for me also.

[StephenPatterson]

The OP posted that he is "...in the habit of carrying the camera without the lens cap, ready to shoot.." and so having a circular polarizer mounted to his lens on the M9 with no ability to evaluate the effect before a shot would seem to be at odds with his stated goal.

[CalArts 99]

It would work okay that way, too (using the meter as a gauge.)

 

My own issue was that the 6x9 didn't have an on board TTL meter, so I had to use a marked filter.

 

Anyway, I don't think the OP really wants to do any of this. As Stephen says, it sounded like they were hoping to just to thread on a polarizing filter and be done with it.

[hoppyman]

Paul most filters do not fit inside that hood in any case.

If you meant a UV filter rather than a POL then some do fit, including Leica's own. Later hoods apparently do have slightly more clearance too according to some reports

.

Assuming that you did mean a polariser there are some workarounds you can try.

With what you have, I'd suggest just removing the hood temporarily when you want to fit the polarising filter. You will need to rotate the front portion of the filter to adjust the effect in use.

With your M9 you cannot directly see the effect but you could rotate the filter and watch the exposure reading as a way around that. The point at which the exposure is darkest is the maximum polarising effect. The effect would vary according to your subject of course. You ought to see a larger shift say on a blue sky but maybe less if you were perhaps trying to eliminate reflections.

 

You can shoot test frames to experiment too of course.

That is all a bit clumsy but I think the only options with what you have.

 

Leica do market a specialised polariser where the front element can be swung through 180 degrees (effect is the same) to be in front of the viewfinder while you check the effect.

That works fine but the item is bulkier. Being Leica it comes in its own case with some adapters and space for more and it costs a lot ;-) Occasionally you might find a used one or marked down stock.

 

I've had one for several years and it works well. I don't use it often though.

Good luck and let us know how you go.

[LocalHero1953]

Thanks for the advice so far. Has anyone tried filters (linear or circular) other than the Hoya with the leica hood, or can anyone recommend an alternative hood to attach to the filter outer thread?

 

As for practicalities in use, I was aware of the pitfalls on the M9, hence went for the cheaper Hoya (and circular polarisers are easier to find than linear ones), in case they were insurmountable. However, I have obtained results that satisfy me. I spent the last few days in the bright light of southern Spain experimenting with landscapes, foliage and water. The mark on the filter is 90 degrees to the direction of filter polarisation (confirmed by holding up to my Polaroid sunglasses) and the angle of the sun allows you to assess the most likely direction of polarisation of reflected light (this is easier with water and glass). Setting the filter accordingly seemed to work for me, though I agree this is not precision. YMMV.

[mmradman]

Thanks for the advice so far. Has anyone tried filters (linear or circular) other than the Hoya with the leica hood, or can anyone recommend an alternative hood to attach to the filter outer thread?

 

As for practicalities in use, I was aware of the pitfalls on the M9, hence went for the cheaper Hoya (and circular polarisers are easier to find than linear ones), in case they were insurmountable. However, I have obtained results that satisfy me. I spent the last few days in the bright light of southern Spain experimenting with landscapes, foliage and water. The mark on the filter is 90 degrees to the direction of filter polarisation (confirmed by holding up to my Polaroid sunglasses) and the angle of the sun allows you to assess the most likely direction of polarisation of reflected light (this is easier with water and glass). Setting the filter accordingly seemed to work for me, though I agree this is not precision. YMMV.

 

Heliopan UV, Colour & Linear Pol filters works well under Leica hoods, including 35mm FLE.

[Guest borge]

My B+W Kaesemann E46 CPL has markings that clearly indicate what is the normal position, so, it sort of works. And this one fits under the hood of my 35 FLE. But, you can't adjust it while the hood is on... So there is no point in using it with the hood on as I see it. If you want to use it you have to go hood-less so that you can quickly adjust the CPL.

 

It does work but you won't get a precise adjustment. To be honest it's sort of pointless and awkward because it might ruin more shots than not, unless you prefer funky looking and unevenly lit skies and light in general.

[LocalHero1953]

Just seen some other comments:

 

Geoff: yes, I did mean the polarising filter, not a UV filter. The leica polarising filter looks a wonderful piece of design - but at a price thanks for the other advice.

 

Stephen: you're right in implying that evaluating the effect of the filter by trial and error is not compatible with fast moving street photography, and mostly I do have time to evaluate as I go. I don't expect to use the polariser for fast work, but it would be convenient at times to leave it on AND keep the benefit of the hood. However, even in slow work I am concerned about an unprotected glass element and having no hood to counteract flare.

 

To those who suggested it: I tried watching the exposure while rotating the ring, but couldn't make it work reliably.

 

Mladen, Borge: thanks, I'll look at those options. The only problem with the Hoya seems to be the knurled ring, which stops the hood sliding over the top.

[hoppyman]

I don't see how you can possibly rotate the front of a filter within the hood, even if you could find one that just fit.

I would be very surprised if you find one of any brand that does fit in there in any case and you would still be left with one that you could not rotate to adjust.

Screw in lens hoods can of course be mounted in the threads on the front of a filter but it would need to be tubular or conical. You may possibly run into mechanical vignetting with any such assembly though.

[Guest borge]

Mladen, Borge: thanks, I'll look at those options. The only problem with the Hoya seems to be the knurled ring, which stops the hood sliding over the top.

 

Dude, sorry! Don't listen to what I previously wrote. The B+W MRC Kaesemann E46 CPL fits under the hood of the Summilux 50 ASPH but not under the hood of the Summilux 35 ASPH FLE! All other B+W F-Pro filters fits under the FLE's hood though.

 

But even if it would fit under the hood on the FLE it would be impossible to adjust it without removing the hood.

To be able to adjust it on the Lux 50 ASPH you also have to slide back the hood.

[tobey bilek]

Linear or circ make no difference on a RF, ie no advantage to circ.

 

Tiffin are greenish colored so avoid those. You can fix the green with Adobe Profile editor which I do with Nikons.

 

If you really want one, the Leica swing out is only way to go. My opinion is skies are better handled in photoshop. I reserve mine for reflection on water or tree leaves or non metallic surfaces.

[jdlaing]

Has worked for me. Nothing anorak about it either.

 

Me too.

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Hallo,

Look here: Leica M

[exile]

I've used a polarizing filter on the M9 for several years. I use three methods:

 

1) If the filter is not yet on the lens I willl hold it up and view the landscape for the best polarising effect, then memorise the filter position by the mark/engraving on the side and rotate it to the same position once on the lens.

 

2) Obviously method (1) is too much hassle if the filter is alreay on the lens and a new scene is encountered - in which case I momentarily switch to "A" on the shutter dial and rotate the polariser until I see the slowest shutter speed (i.e. maximum polarisation). Then I switch back to manual metering and choose an appropriate part of the scene to meter from. You can do this with the manual metering of course but I find the numbers to respond faster than the triangles to exposure changes... though this could be some weird illusion due to the metering triangles burning themselves into my retina.

 

3) If the polarising filter is already on the lens and I don't have time to change my metering, I simply rotate the filter until the mark on the side faces 90 degrees from the sun. (You can find out yourself by holding it up to the sun whether the relevant mark on your filter is the manufacturer's name or the filter model name or whatever.)

 

With any of these techniques, be aware that if you have a lens that rotates as it focusses, you need to focus first and then do the trick with the polarising filter. Perhaps more obviously, if you switch from landscape to portrait format you also need to make a corresponding adjustment to the filter. Once you practice a system it will become second nature.