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I like film...(open thread)


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4 hours ago, wpo said:

Hi James,

why don`t you look for a Focomat Ic Color? With its black crincle laquer this is a wonderful looking enlarger with automatic focusing just as well as the V35. It is best made and fitted with a Focotar II 4,5/50mm this enlarger will give you best results. Should be no problem to get light bulbs for it and the complete enlarger should be less pricy than the V35. I still love my own but sadly ;) I own the very last version in grey hammer finish :)  .... or go for a AGFA Varioscop 66. This enlarger was made for professional labs, is built like a tank and stands in the same class with the Focomat IIc but should be much cheaper because it is not made by LEITZ. Look for an exemplar in bright grey or better white laquer. These are the youngest. I got this enlarger from a friend who hopefully now has a new darkroom on the other side of the rainbow. He used it for his thousands of Hasselblad and Leica negatives with wonderful results.

Best regards

Wolfgang

Thank you for this insightful information, Wolfgang. I will keep it in mind before my next acquisition - for now my Focomat V35 will have to do the job. I think the 200 € I spent for it are not too much, esp. because it came with some extras, like a couple of old B&W filters, two framing devices from Hama and Agfa and some packages of slide frames. 

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Ice cream, anyone?

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Same setup as above

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I should have used a tele lens for this portrait shot 😎

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Ricoh GR1 - Portra 160

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Hope is unsteady:

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Ricoh GR1 - Portra 160

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On 5/19/2019 at 4:59 PM, A miller said:

I am thinking of experimenting with infrared photography down at the dead sea this summer with my 6x17.

I have never down this before.

Can any of you gurus tell me what I need to buy (best film, filters etc) and what I need to learn about workflow-wise?

So far, I understand that the Ilford SFX 200 is a good film for beginnings, although it is not true infrared film - and I would use either a red or dark red filter....?

Is that too tame for a beginner like me?

Thanks in advance!

Adam 

HI Adam, 

You made me curious, using IR photography at the dead sea sounds like an interesting plan. I'm by no means a guru, however, I have some limited experience that I can share. 

I believe that with the demise of the Efke IR film no true IR film is available anymore (if someone knows otherwise please let me know). 

Films that I know of are all sensitive only in the near-infrared. Those include in Format 120:

  • Ilford SFX 200, sensitivity 740-780, IR filter @715
  • Rollei Infrared, no sensitivity data available to me, but I expect similar sensitivity to the Ilford film. I'd recommend an IR filter @715 

In Format 35 there are additionally available:

  • Adox IR-HR PRO (only limited availability) Peak sensitivity @ 740, IR filter @ 715
  • Washi Z, but no technical data available to me

All above films have best IR-like results with a filter like the B&W 092, Heliopan RG715 or Hoya IR 720. For correct exposure you will have to experiment as, when you use the filters, the exposure depends to a large extend at the IR light available. A rule by thumb would be to start with about 5 stops less exposure. In my experience with a Leica you can just about take pictures free-hand in full sunshine. 

A learning factor was a ruined film (in the circumference of the Rome challenge) whereby I used a true black IR filter with the Rollei film (B&W 093). True to form the film was truly black, with the exception of one or two pictures in which I photographed straight into the sun. The sun was just visible in those frames 😪

As to the focusing. If you use a Leica lens the recommendation I got from their very friendly technical staff was: 

As normal photographic lenses aren't corrected for IR light (with the exception of apochromatic corrected lenses) the focussing needs to be adapted. Infrared indications as for example the red dot with an "R", as former Leica lenses carried, can only be used as indication, as the marking is only valid for a combination of a specific film and filter at the infinity point of the lens. 

As an estimation one can assume that an extension of 1/200 to 1/400 of the used focal length is needed, though a test would have to be conducted to identify the best value. The process would be to identify the optimal infinity adjustment for the lens. If one assumes that that would be 1/300th of the focal length, the lens would not be adjusted to infinity, but to a distance that responds to 300 focal lengths of the used lens. With a 50mm lens it would be 15m (300 x 50mm) with a 90mm lens 27m, with a 135mm lens 40m etc. After exposure and development of the film it should be possible to identify the optimal distance using the best sharpness of the negative. 

In practice I used a 2,8/28A and 2/35A lens , the rule of thumb of 1/300, and at least an aperture that would ensure that the depth of field would cover any inaccuracies. 

It is good practice to start using IR films with light from the side, as the wood effect is weakened by front- or back-illumination. Photographing people gives an interesting marble effect of the skin, that may not always be flattering. In the attached picture I was exploring how IR photography would expose tattoos, and I used one of these pictures as my entry for the Australia-challenge in Melbourne. 

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M4-P, 35, Rollei IR400, Rodinal

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A landscape...

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M4-P, 35, Rollei IR400, Rodinal

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Another picture illustrating the wood effect in side-light.

 

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M4-P, 50(?), EfkeIR820
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Dog, Bowl, Sun. 

Leica IIIC / Konishiroku Hexanon 50/1.9 / Portra 400

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No scanned prints to show at the moment, but I am using Rollei 400 infrared film with Leica Rd, Rh and IR filters, along with B&W 092 and other 25A filters. In my experience they all need about 5 stops exposure more than a hand held exposure meter gives for normal light. I think that even though to the eye the filters have much different densities they have a similar need for about 5 stops on the film, maybe they cut out different degrees of the blue end of light. At the moment I have a roll in a Reid 3 (first roll in a new camera) and am using the e39 IR filter on a 50mm f2.8 screw Elmar.

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6 hours ago, stray cat said:

cape schanck 2019

M6TTL, 50mm Elmar, Ektachrome 100

I think the brilliance of a well exposed slide is unsurpassed. One can only guess at the feeling of the sparkling sea in your slide. Did she jump in? 

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lonely speed guy on mars (yes, there is liquid water on mars, i'm sure)

M6, Summicron 35 asph, C200

20190512-DSC02906 by antoniofedele, on Flickr

 

Edited by AntonioF
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I'm getting some more hands on with the Hasselblad 500C/M, still getting comfortable but I can definitely say I prefer the sport finder over the waist level finder for composing and focus. I should spend more time with the WLF because I do appreciate the lower angle perspective it provides, but focusing is not easy for me, even with the magnifier. 

Here's one from last week, Denver CO. PORTRA 400

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19 hours ago, gbealnz said:

I'd wager the SWC and you 503 lenses have an I/R mark. It's normally about the f5.6 point anyway.

Perhaps you can help me. My SWC has no IR mark. My shortcoming I am sure. Would it help to post a photo of my lens focus /ƒ stop?
Thank you.

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30 minutes ago, pico said:

Perhaps you can help me. My SWC has no IR mark. My shortcoming I am sure. Would it help to post a photo of my lens focus /ƒ stop?
Thank you.

Yes Pico, maybe post a picture. I've just checked, as opposed to a guess. Both my 903SWC, as well as my CF50/4 and CF100/3.5 have the I/R marks.

Gary

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28 minutes ago, gbealnz said:

Yes Pico, maybe post a picture. I've just checked, as opposed to a guess. Both my 903SWC, as well as my CF50/4 and CF100/3.5 have the I/R marks.

Thanks for your generous help, Gary. Below is a snapshot. Hope it helps!

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Edited by pico
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