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I like film...(open thread)


Doc Henry

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Glad you are safely back Gary and posting your aerial photographs again. This one is particularly pleasing.

Thank you Charles. An excellent trip, and I even met a couple of "I Like Film" rascals too.

 

I could use some scanning advice from the masses please, flat-bed Epson scanner. Making contact sheets.

 

I've got 16 rolls of 35mm to scan, and want to make a "contact sheet" from each for reference, without cranking the darkroom up. In the past I've done it piecemeal, and used layers etc, and for one roll it's bearable, but the thought of doing 16 will drive me nuts.

 

For colour I have tended to use the Epson software, it seems to give me the most "realistic" colour straight off the bat. B&W I don't care, Epson or Viewscan. The scanner (an older one, Epson 4870) has neg holders, holding four strips of 35mm. With Viewscan I can do the roll in two swipes, and "join" them after scanning in Photoshop. The Epson software I haven't mastered yet and end up with single scans which have to be joined together. Laborious, and too hard for this many.

 

It will be operator error, I am sure there is a way, just a matter of nailing it.

 

Gary

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My technique is twofold, whichever works.

1. File the negs in transparent neg sleeves and lay them on the flatbed and scan direct, to make a contact sheet.

Sometimes, I get interference from the bags (still not sure why), so then I revert to 2.

2. I simply remove the film strips from the bag and lay them directly on the scanner. Scan as one, remembering to keep the strips in correct order when re-filing (for obvious reasons). This gives a better quality contact sheet, but involves more handling.

 

Currently I direct scan each frame seperately as a full scale image because my throughput of film is low. I set the scanning to go in the background while I do other work on the computer, so that the time taken is not an issue.

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Portra 400

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Thank you Charles. An excellent trip, and I even met a couple of "I Like Film" rascals too.

 

I could use some scanning advice from the masses please, flat-bed Epson scanner. Making contact sheets.

 

I've got 16 rolls of 35mm to scan, and want to make a "contact sheet" from each for reference, without cranking the darkroom up. In the past I've done it piecemeal, and used layers etc, and for one roll it's bearable, but the thought of doing 16 will drive me nuts.

 

For colour I have tended to use the Epson software, it seems to give me the most "realistic" colour straight off the bat. B&W I don't care, Epson or Viewscan. The scanner (an older one, Epson 4870) has neg holders, holding four strips of 35mm. With Viewscan I can do the roll in two swipes, and "join" them after scanning in Photoshop. The Epson software I haven't mastered yet and end up with single scans which have to be joined together. Laborious, and too hard for this many.

 

It will be operator error, I am sure there is a way, just a matter of nailing it.

 

Gary

 

Hi Gary

 

I recently returned from a trip to Sicily (amazing place: people, history, scenery and especially food), exposed 18 rolls (9 colour C-41, 9 BW) whilst there and have just finished developing and scanning them (haven't yet sorted through the scans). This was a quick and easy task using a Jobo ATL-1500 (4 or 5 rolls at a time) and then using a Pakon 135+ as the 'contact sheet maker'.  The Pakon delivers great colour with no post-processing (colour tables created by Kodak and are automatically selected by reading from the film edges), BW could be better, but similar to other current film scanners. Just my 2c!

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My technique is twofold, whichever works.

1. File the negs in transparent neg sleeves and lay them on the flatbed and scan direct, to make a contact sheet.

Sometimes, I get interference from the bags (still not sure why), so then I revert to 2.

2. I simply remove the film strips from the bag and lay them directly on the scanner. Scan as one, remembering to keep the strips in correct order when re-filing (for obvious reasons). This gives a better quality contact sheet, but involves more handling.

 

Currently I direct scan each frame seperately as a full scale image because my throughput of film is low. I set the scanning to go in the background while I do other work on the computer, so that the time taken is not an issue.

Thank you Erl.

The reading I have done suggests the scan will be better in "transparency" mode, in other words with the light coming from above, rather than reflective mode as you would use for a paper document.

 

The transparency mode in my scanners case is smaller, so I'll have to establish where this is etc.

 

Your two methods are via the reflective, or transparency mode?

 

Looks like a good wet day task.

Gary

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Standing stone, Isle of Lewis.

 

A couple of things come into play here: the gentle contrast of the Solinar lens and the gritty bite of RO9. I like this combination with the kind of benign, diffuse light so often found in the Outer Hebrides in autumn. Good for strong textures.

 

Agfa Isolette iii

Solinar f3.5

Fuji Acros 100 in RO9

 

This photo jumps off the page sighing gently, "look at me!"

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Continuing with some of the family slides that I've digitalized with the BEOON + Focotar 2 50mm + M10, below are two Kodachrome 25 images, the first from the mid-70s and the second from the late-80s, both with the Summicron 50mm lens.

 

 

post-41618-0-68611600-1506792664.jpg

 

 

 

post-41618-0-54798800-1506792667.jpg

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Here comes a portrait on Cinestill 800:

 

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Minilux

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Thank you Erl.

The reading I have done suggests the scan will be better in "transparency" mode, in other words with the light coming from above, rather than reflective mode as you would use for a paper document.

 

The transparency mode in my scanners case is smaller, so I'll have to establish where this is etc.

 

Your two methods are via the reflective, or transparency mode?

 

Looks like a good wet day task.

Gary

Definitely transparency mode, because the film is transparent.

 

I always used to file film in strips of six, but my Epson V700 will only accommodate strips of five, so now I file everything in strips of five, in neg sleeves sized accordingly. If you try to scan 'in sleeve', you must use transparent sleeves. If you remove the film strips, obviously any translucent design is OK.

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After a busy few weeks including a road trip through the US West, 10 days in Scotland and England then hernia surgery yesterday I now have a few days on enforced rest to catch up on my photo processing, here's the first of quite a few I will probably be posting.

 

St. Cuthbert's Churchyard, Edinburgh.

Leica M2, DR Summicron 50, Ilford HP5, HC110 solution B.

 

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Edited by mikemgb
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St. Cuthbert's Churchyard, Edinburgh.

Leica M2, DR Summicron 50, Ilford HP5, HC110 solution B.

 

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Edited by mikemgb
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St. Cuthbert's Churchyard, Edinburgh.

Leica M2, DR Summicron 50, Ilford HP5, HC110 solution B.

 

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Edited by mikemgb
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I recently had some fun with my 16mm extension tube and 80mm planar with the Hassy 503cw.

This one is from a nature reserve in Jerusalem

Velvia 50

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