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I like film...(open thread)


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M-A APO 50 Portra 400

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portra 400 

Eos 7s 100 macro

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5 hours ago, verwackelt said:

Why not a Fujica GL690? The Texasleica.
Keeps the M-feeling…
You get wonderful giant negatives and keeping the 3:2 ratio.
And way cheaper than Mamiya 7

Thanks for the suggestion. I think I had looked at this closely but felt it was way too heavy. The Mamiya 6 or 7 is pretty much the outer limits of what I'd carry. I'm sort of a weight weenie, and even prefer the Mamiya 220 to the 330 because it's a pound lighter. 

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Ground
M-A APO 50 ADOX Color Implosion

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8 hours ago, bags27 said:

The funds I had put away for a Mamiya 7 suddenly went to a nicely preserved M10 that my friend flipped to buy a 10R. My only MF is my precious Holga. Wondering about a Mamiya 220 while I rebuild my coffers. Any thoughts?

Try a Lubitel first? Doubtful quality, holga-like lens, but gives you a taste of the Rollei feeling. From €5 at your local yardsale😁

PS: Just read that you are already busy with two-eyed Mamiyas. Never mind...

 

Edited by christoph_d
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R8, Vario Elmar-R 1:3.5-4..5/28-70, Kodak Portra 400

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Tempietto

Fuji 645 GA zi, T-Max 400, scanned with SL2 multishot, processed wit Negative Lab Pro in Lightroom. Works pretty well :).

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21 minutes ago, Arrow said:

Tempietto

Fuji 645 GA zi, T-Max 400, scanned with SL2 multishot, processed wit Negative Lab Pro in Lightroom. Works pretty well :).

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nice shot! I'm responding because you're using about as high-tech an approach as possible: the SL2 in its multishot mode. And yet, the sky has some problems. The amount of noise or grain is an aesthetic decision, of course, but just wondering whether the multishot mode or the SL2's 47 mps sensor actually accentuated it. Also, there are some minor spots in the sky, wondering whether that set up introduced them or whether they were in the negative. Also whether it would have been possible to use the spot remover in LR or PS or whether, once the multishot was used, they are somehow made indelible. Certainly not intended as criticism. Just wondering about the effects of this super high powered scanning, as I scan with the CL and Sigma 70 f/4 macro and wondering whether something more robust would improve the outcome. Thanks!

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31 minutes ago, bags27 said:

nice shot! I'm responding because you're using about as high-tech an approach as possible: the SL2 in its multishot mode. And yet, the sky has some problems. The amount of noise or grain is an aesthetic decision, of course, but just wondering whether the multishot mode or the SL2's 47 mps sensor actually accentuated it. Also, there are some minor spots in the sky, wondering whether that set up introduced them or whether they were in the negative. Also whether it would have been possible to use the spot remover in LR or PS or whether, once the multishot was used, they are somehow made indelible. Certainly not intended as criticism. Just wondering about the effects of this super high powered scanning, as I scan with the CL and Sigma 70 f/4 macro and wondering whether something more robust would improve the outcome. Thanks!

I actually use the same lens. The neg holder and led board just came in today. So, I am currently experimenting a bit. What I can say is, the scans are better than with my old Epson 750v. I also played a bit with Nik software. There you can get finer,  grainier or what have you appearance. The dirt is on the negs ;) I somehow like this dust to some extant on film scans. If I want a perfectly clean high res image ... I have the SL2 for that. I also have some anti aliasing glass that I did not use, so far. That might help, too.

Spot remover is a good hint, however. I will try that out!

I also did some scans of old slides with the SL 601 and it´s 24 MP resolution. That is also pretty much up for the task. To view the old slides on the laptop, the lower resolution is welcome.

Here is another view of title temple.

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Edited by Arrow
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Turner Redux
M-A APO 50 ADOX Color Implosion

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2 hours ago, Arrow said:

I actually use the same lens. The neg holder and led board just came in today. So, I am currently experimenting a bit. What I can say is, the scans are better than with my old Epson 750v. I also played a bit with Nik software. There you can get finer,  grainier or what have you appearance. The dirt is on the negs ;) I somehow like this dust to some extant on film scans. If I want a perfectly clean high res image ... I have the SL2 for that. I also have some anti aliasing glass that I did not use, so far. That might help, too.

Spot remover is a good hint, however. I will try that out!

I also did some scans of old slides with the SL 601 and it´s 24 MP resolution. That is also pretty much up for the task. To view the old slides on the laptop, the lower resolution is welcome.

Here is another view of title temple.

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Thanks for this, too! I want to take the opportunity to plug a fantastic new negative holder. 

http://www.clifforth.co.uk/

and, even if you don't buy it, he has a tremendously useful guide to scanning. Andrew is a highly successful software engineer who, during the lockdown, started this business as a distraction and has been quite successful. He's also an avid photographer, so it's a happy combination:

http://www.clifforth.co.uk/howto/

 

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14 minutes ago, bags27 said:

Thanks for this, too! I want to take the opportunity to plug a fantastic new negative holder. 

http://www.clifforth.co.uk/

and, even if you don't buy it, he has a tremendously useful guide to scanning. Andrew is a highly successful software engineer who, during the lockdown, started this business as a distraction and has been quite successful. He's also an avid photographer, so it's a happy combination:

http://www.clifforth.co.uk/howto/

 

Cheers for the link to Andrew´s page! That is indeed pretty useful!

I went for the Kaiser system that partly derives from their enlargers, like the film holders. 

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Somewhere in Athens

Hasselblad 501cm, Planar 2.8 80mm, T-Max 400, 

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2 hours ago, HighlandLeica said:

Fabrication Yard at Nigg, on the Cromarty Firth, Highland Scotland. 

Many decommissioned rigs litter the firth as this view shows, looking west. 

M7, 35mm Cron, Portra 400

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I know that view well. I used to pass it on my way to stay with friends near Rosehall on the Oykel River. 

Wilson

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I did a lot of experimenting with different lenses on the Leitz BEOON film copying device and the SL 1. The best lens I found was a 50mm/2.8 Rodenstock APO-Rodagon. The next best and only fractionally behind, was a Schneider-Kreuznach 50mm/2.8 Green Stripe Componon S, which was less than a quarter of the price of the APO-Rodagon, so that was what I bought. I found that for film digitisation, high quality reprographics/enlarging lenses worked much better than camera lenses and I tried a 50 Summicron V, a 50 Zeiss Planar ZM and a 2,8 50 Elmar-M. The L mount lenses are too big and will not fit in the BEOON. The SL1 is brilliant. I link it to a MacBook Pro with a mini-HDMI cable and use image capture to save the DNG's to the SSD. I can scan a whole 36 exposure roll to perfectly focussed images in 2 to 3 minutes. It is essential to use fixed ISO and a fixed white balance using the 5400ºK colour temperature of the LED panel I use to illuminate the film. 

Wilson

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9 minutes ago, wlaidlaw said:

I did a lot of experimenting with different lenses on the Leitz BEOON film copying device and the SL 1. The best lens I found was a 50mm/2.8 Rodenstock APO-Rodagon. The next best and only fractionally behind, was a Schneider-Kreuznach 50mm/2.8 Green Stripe Componon S, which was less than a quarter of the price of the APO-Rodagon, so that was what I bought. I found that for film digitisation, high quality reprographics/enlarging lenses worked much better than camera lenses and I tried a 50 Summicron V, a 50 Zeiss Planar ZM and a 2,8 50 Elmar-M. The L mount lenses are too big and will not fit in the BEOON. The SL1 is brilliant. I link it to a MacBook Pro with a mini-HDMI cable and use image capture to save the DNG's to the SSD. I can scan a whole 36 exposure roll to perfectly focussed images in 2 to 3 minutes. It is essential to use fixed ISO and a fixed white balance using the 5400ºK colour temperature of the LED panel I use to illuminate the film. 

Wilson

Thanks for all the good information. I've thought about the BEOON, but never sure I'd be buying a complete one and worried that the Sigma 70 won't fit. I've been using a spare inverted tripod, which is satisfactory, though I'm always tempted by a copy stand--except that they must be in demand, because there's never a cheap one on ebay.

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