advice for Zeiss 35 f2 lens

[TCK]

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I now have a 35 biogon f2 Zeiss lens on my M8 . I want to be able to shoot as quick and sharp hand held as I can without a flash. I keep hearing about shooting wide open but it never seems as sharp as when I zone focus at say f8 . I realize the more I shoot the sharper I personally like things. With this lens, how open can I go in less light and still get sharp hand held photos ? I realize that there is more to the equation with ISO , etc...but what are some good general settings with this setup? I also know that practice makes perfect but I am just trying to get in the ballpark.

When it comes to Depth Of Field, will wide open always have a shallow dof or can you get a big dof with the lens wide open hand held without flash?

Thanks in advance. I am not trying to get an easy way out , just trying to get more in the ballpark like I said above.

I mostly shoot street and urban type stuff .... people,graff.,buildings, signs

etc....

respect

tim

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[TomB_tx]

DOF and aperture are always related for a given lens focal length. Shooting available light (dim) wide open always means limited DOF, so if that is necessary the trick is to use that in your composition, while nailing the focus where it has the most impact, or increase the light, ISO, or decrease shutter speed to use a smaller aperture.

You should also check the focus on your lens using a focus chart: a grid angled 45 degrees to the lens, focus on the middle, and see if the sharpest area matches where you focused. If not, either the lens or camera rangefinder may be off.

I also use the Zeiss 35 f2.0 - but on an M9. My lens (bought new last year) focused enough in front of the indicated focus that I also thought it was very soft wide open. Finally checked with a focus chart and realized the problem. I sent it to DAG for calibration, and it has been great since - sharper than my 35 Summicron (1969 version) and others - even wide open.

When you need greater DOF you need to stop down some, possibly using higher ISO and/or slower shutter speed. With good technique you should be able to use 1/15th reliably with a 35 - the trick is to get you subjects still enough!

The folks at Precision Camera should be able to help check out your lens and M8 for focus accuracy (and probably try to talk you into a new M while you are there...)

[darylgo]

Hi Tim,

 

The Zeiss 35/2 Biogon is factory set to focus a film camera, digital will be slightly misfocused and could be the reason f2 has been less sharp. In addition a lens will be less sharp wide-open, improving as it's stopped down, optimum is reached at f4, f5.6 for an f2 lens. Zeiss offers a service to change the focus to digital, the lens is sent to Germany for this service and does not incur any fees if the lens is under warranty.

 

F4 should give a good combination of depth of field and sharpness, but optimum sharpness is achieved when focus is spot on.

[darylgo]

lol asking this question , makes me come to the conclusion that you have invested in the wrong gear

 

Or in the process of learning. Reminds me of the lady that had no technical expertise who won many photo contests because of her artistry and lighting ability.

[TCK]

nope Dennis ..... right gear, just trying to get my head around something I haven't dealt with in 30 plus years (smile).Trying to get more hits than misses.

[darylgo]

nope Dennis ..... right gear, just trying to get my head around something I haven't dealt with in 30 plus years (smile).Trying to get more hits than misses.

 

Not only the right gear but the Zeiss 35 f2 is a real sleeper, look at the mtf curves, read reviews. This is a lens I purchased and use rather than my 35 Summicron, I also compared it to the 35 FLE, saved myself over $5k, the Zeiss is that good.

[Einst_Stein]

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I now have a 35 biogon f2 Zeiss lens on my M8 . I want to be able to shoot as quick and sharp hand held as I can without a flash. I keep hearing about shooting wide open but it never seems as sharp as when I zone focus at say f8 . I realize the more I shoot the sharper I personally like things. With this lens, how open can I go in less light and still get sharp hand held photos ? I realize that there is more to the equation with ISO , etc...but what are some good general settings with this setup? I also know that practice makes perfect but I am just trying to get in the ballpark.

When it comes to Depth Of Field, will wide open always have a shallow dof or can you get a big dof with the lens wide open hand held without flash?

Thanks in advance. I am not trying to get an easy way out , just trying to get more in the ballpark like I said above.

I mostly shoot street and urban type stuff .... people,graff.,buildings, signs

etc....

respect

tim

 

It seems to me your need to practice more on your focusing skill.

I don't know what's your main interests. Large aperture/shallow DOF usually works good for me when shooting portraits or close-ups.

 

For landscape, f8 is my most frequent aperture. I rarely use DOF meter, only occasionally for candit shots when either me or the target could be uncomfortable, or for fast moving objects or for panning.

[anabasis]

With this lens, how open can I go in less light and still get sharp hand held photos ? I realize that there is more to the equation with ISO , etc...but what are some good general settings with this setup? I also know that practice makes perfect but I am just trying to get in the ballpark.

When it comes to Depth Of Field, will wide open always have a shallow dof or can you get a big dof with the lens wide open hand held without flash?

 

Tim,

 

DOF varies with focal length, subject distance, and aperture. The longer the focal length, the closer the subject to the sensor plane, and the larger the aperture; the less DOF you get.

 

If you are shooting at f2 on a 35mm lens at the maximum ISO and slowest shutter speed, the only thing you can do is get further from the subject. You can then do some "digital zooming" in post to get a different composition.

 

You can also use a wider angle lens (shorter focal length) for more DOF at the same distance and aperture (28mm might work for you).

 

Of course the best solution isn't DOF at all. The way to make this work is to be able to judge distance and then preset you lens to that distance before taking the shot. You can either keep changing the lens focus setting, or move to a position that the subject will be at the pre-set distance before shooting.

 

JCA