Thinking of new Leica film camera

[colonel]

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Thanks for all the help in my last quest, last year, to find a M6

 

The M6 is a beautiful camera (not to be sexist but as an aside it seemed to attract alot of interest from ladies ) but I didn't get on with it. I found that time taken in moving the stiff speed dial lost me alot of spontaneous pictures. I should have bought the TTL, it seems the larger dial on that is a step forward.

 

After looking at he Leicas and Ikons I have now decided that the M7 is the most logical camera to go for, and also to find a V2 with the better viewfinder and film insertion. My heart wants to buy an MP but it seems like zero advantage over an M6 TTL with upgraded viewfinder (this is all second hand BTW).

 

1. Any comments on choice ?

 

I don't have time to process (although i might in the future), so was looking for a good company in london just to process the film. I was going to buy a plustek 8100 to scan.

 

2. Any comments on plustek 8100 (alternatives, etc.)

 

3. Any suggestions on film processing in London ? (I did try a few mail order companies before, but they seemed to return the negatives with dust marks in the processing)

 

Lastly, I heared last year that film is continuing to decline (e.g. Fuji statement on prices) although there is some conflicting reports about a revival, perhaps driven by Japn, perhaps driven by Lomo, who knows .... perhaps the revival is not enough to cancel out the decline. I guess my worry is that I don't want to be left in a situation where I can't buy film, or its £20 per roll. Not sure I have an answer for this worry, but just worth stating.

 

best rgds

[earleygallery]

It sounds like the M7 would be the best choice if you find that the manual metering/settings of the M6 slow you down too much.

 

I've read of problems with both types of film DX readers in the M7 so you may want to bear this in mind, the later optical version seems more reliable.

 

For scanners also consider the high end Epson models. Sadly the range of options for new consumer film scanners is pretty limited in any case.

 

Processing in London is easy. There are a number of pro labs, Aperture now offer in house processing, as well as Lomo stores and my usual choice for C41 and E6, Snappy Snaps, who have numerous branches. Process your own B&W, it's very simple (and fun!).

 

I wouldn't worry about availability of 35mm film, in terms of "should I buy a film camera". OK we have fewer choices now than 10 years ago, but there's still enough to cater for all tastes.

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[antistatic]

How much time do you think it takes to develop a roll or two of film? How much time would it take to travel through London to a film developing place, and travel to collect it again once someone else has developed your negs?

 

I find developing my own black and white negs has become an integral part of my photography that I don't want to outsource. On the rare occassion I get scratches and dust at least it is my scratches and dust

[colonel]

How much time do you think it takes to develop a roll or two of film? How much time would it take to travel through London to a film developing place, and travel to collect it again once someone else has developed your negs?

 

I find developing my own black and white negs has become an integral part of my photography that I don't want to outsource. On the rare occassion I get scratches and dust at least it is my scratches and dust

 

good point

no idea

are the chemicals easy to find or order ?

do I need a dark room for film only (sorry for the dumb qu. its been years I developed).

[earleygallery]

good point

no idea

are the chemicals easy to find or order ?

do I need a dark room for film only (sorry for the dumb qu. its been years I developed).

 

Nope, you just need a changing bag, a developing tank, a thermometer and a couple of measuring jugs.

 

Ilford have a good beginners guide on their website

ILFORD PHOTO - Processing a Black & White film

 

Plenty of places to buy chemicals etc. from. In London Silverprint carry good stocks.

[sblitz]

Others have given you excellent advise on film, and London like NYC are two places where the demise of film has narrowed but not eliminated choices. I do see more young people about shooting film when it is for fun. As for camera, May I suggest an M4. Modern in film loading and frame lines and totally manual, no meter. Advantage? Having a light meter on your side you get the feel for the light, set the camera and then shoot. All that info in the viewfinder can hold you back because the metering isn't perfect when, in fact, it just might be. With a perfect manual camera you are liberated from the fine tuning that is unnecessary in street shots. One last thing, get the shots scanned as TIFF files with around 10mb you will find the latitude of adjustment in LR at least as wide as an M9 18mb file, but the bw shots have that silver in them :-)

[250swb]

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good point

no idea

are the chemicals easy to find or order ?

do I need a dark room for film only (sorry for the dumb qu. its been years I developed).

 

The Ilford guides are excellent, as are their products. It is very easy to get started with processing your own B&W film, and has been said, all you need is a changing bag, a daylight tank, some jugs, a thermometer and the basic chemicals.

 

There are a number of outlets selling everything you need, Silverprint in London are very good

 

Silverprint - Home - News - Photographic Materials and more -

 

as are AG Photographic

 

Ag Photographic. The Specialists for all traditional photo products.

 

but there really are a lot of people selling the stuff you need.

 

 

Steve

[philipus]

Hi Harold

 

I went from an M3 to a TTL and one of the reasons was the larger dial which I find very easy to use. It is easier to "find" with the finger and also easier to turn due to the larger diameter and its rougher edges. I also like that it turns the same direction as the meter arrows and the aperture ring (on modern lenses+some old ones I believe).

 

I never thought I would buy another M but then I came across an M4 which, to me, is the perfect meterless camera. An excellent complement to the TTL. Interestingly enough, its smaller dial is significantly smoother than the one on my M3 and, thus, as easy to turn as the dial on the TTL. My M4 is pretty used which no doubt accounts for its smooth operation (and my TTL's dial is much smoother two years on than when I bought it almost new). I have no problem with the different directions of the dials of these cameras.

 

I've never used an M7 but if it is mainly the dial which has resulted in missed shots an M7 may be unnecessary. Of course the M7 will be a faster camera due to the auto exposure so that may suit your photography well. The M7 will only have two working shutter speeds without batteries, 1/60 and 1/125, whereas the TTL will be fully manual without batteries. This is likely not a problem since batteries are easy to find and easy to bring but I just thought I should mention it since it is something that is often mentioned by the M7 and TTL proponents.

 

Please correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't the M7's dial rotate without stop? I'd find that annoying.

 

I'm right now starting up my own little darkroom to develop BW at home and started a thread about it a while ago where I received incredibly helpful information. David's comment above about how long it takes to go to a lab is interesting - it could easily take the same time as, or more than, the time it takes to drop film off and then pick it up (not counting the waiting time of course). Perhaps one should begin doing C41 as well I looked at that yesterday (and apologies for the tangent) and it does seem pretty straightforward once one gets the temperature under control.

 

About scanners - check out Ffordes. They usually have a good selection of second-hand scanners. Their prices are good, too, in that they don't jack up prices of the Coolscans for instance.

 

Good luck with your decision.

 

Cheers

Philip

[colonel]

Many thanks all.

 

I was choosing between a M7 v2 and M6 TTL, both in excellent condition.

 

I decided to go for the M6TTl in silver.

Wow, what a difference the dial makes. It's very smooth and big enough that my finger oes not stretch.

It's a bit notchy around the flash sync speed, not sure if this is normal.

 

I purchased a patterson film processing set from silverprint who are sending it next week with all the chemicals I need.

 

I also bought a Plustek 8100 which is coming tomorrow.

 

Lastly I bought a nearly new 50mm Summicron to mount on it. The balance is perfect and the smoothness of the focus matched the M6.

 

So all set then. I have taken some pictures already with a batch of Ilford 400. Will take more over the weekend and see first results next week.

 

Fingers crossed.

 

Best rgds

[voort340]

You might want to consider the Zeiss Ikon ZM. I believe is is just as good as the M7 (I have used both, and kept the Zeiss) and in some aspect even better (viewfinder, shutter speed, weight, exposure compensation) at a third of the price, new that is.

[earleygallery]

Many thanks all.

 

I was choosing between a M7 v2 and M6 TTL, both in excellent condition.

 

I decided to go for the M6TTl in silver.

Wow, what a difference the dial makes. It's very smooth and big enough that my finger oes not stretch.

It's a bit notchy around the flash sync speed, not sure if this is normal.

 

I purchased a patterson film processing set from silverprint who are sending it next week with all the chemicals I need.

 

I also bought a Plustek 8100 which is coming tomorrow.

 

Lastly I bought a nearly new 50mm Summicron to mount on it. The balance is perfect and the smoothness of the focus matched the M6.

 

So all set then. I have taken some pictures already with a batch of Ilford 400. Will take more over the weekend and see first results next week.

 

Fingers crossed.

 

Best rgds

 

Well, you're really going for it!

 

With the processing, for the first roll use one full of 'test' images and just follow the Ilford guide, don't worry too much about being absolutely precise with temperature or time at first, just get used to the 'process' (B&W is quite forgiving). If you have an iPhone you can download the Massive Development Chart app which has times for almost any film/developer and a useful timer function.

 

I would also suggest wasting a film to practice loading the reel in daylight and then using the changing bag.

 

Wait until you pull your first roll of negs out of the tank.......

[hamey]

Leica and Film, a match made in heaven.

 

Cheers.

[antistatic]

Good for you for doing your own developing.

 

The only other tip I would give is use distilled water for your final rinse. This will virtually eliminate the dreaded drying marks on the negs. The stuff they sell in supermarkets for irons works fine.

[colonel]

Good for you for doing your own developing.

 

The only other tip I would give is use distilled water for your final rinse. This will virtually eliminate the dreaded drying marks on the negs. The stuff they sell in supermarkets for irons works fine.

 

Interesting

I had a chat with a few people and they said tap water was fine, but with the cost of distilled water it seems a better bet

 

Now my biggest issue is working out how to get the exif data from the film to the scan

just kidding

[earleygallery]

On the rinsing/drying issue, I use tap water. A few drops of wetting agent and instead of tongs I use a folded piece of kitchen towel, formed into 'tongs' which I run very gently down the film and I end up with perfect drop-free negs every time.

[philipus]

It's a bit notchy around the flash sync speed, not sure if this is normal.

 

I haven't got this on my TTL. Could it be that it is due to the shorter distance between the 30, 45 and 60 shutter speeds?

[colonel]

I haven't got this on my TTL. Could it be that it is due to the shorter distance between the 30, 45 and 60 shutter speeds?

 

you could be right there

Its just getting used to the dial and it has become a bit smoother in use.

This camera is in such good condition (except for the scratched base plate) as it was manufactured in 1998 it can't have been used that much so perhaps it will get smoother over time.

 

BTW its also nice having the centre exposure light (over the M6 classic which doesn't).

 

I would say that using film is a very tactile & satisfying experience. Not to mention relaxing.

[Mike Rawcs]

On the rinsing/drying issue, I use tap water. A few drops of wetting agent and instead of tongs I use a folded piece of kitchen towel, formed into 'tongs' which I run very gently down the film and I end up with perfect drop-free negs every time.

 

James,

is that dry kitchen roll or slightly dampened?

 

Mike.

[earleygallery]

James,

is that dry kitchen roll or slightly dampened?

 

Mike.

 

Hi Mike, dry paper towell, fold it into a long strip and double it over to make 'tongs' and run it down the negs applying almost no pressure (just so the paper makes contact with the film).

 

Works a treat and thanks to whoever it was (on here) that originally suggested it!

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Hallo,

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dry paper towell, fold it into a long strip and double it over to make 'tongs' and run it down the negs applying almost no pressure (just so the paper makes contact with the film).

 

Better try this first with a wet film header. There are some kitchen paper tissues with very short fibers which they tend to drop on your film.