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M6 classic


jip

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Hello,

 

I'm going to do a photography course at 'the FOTOfactory' in Amsterdam, it also includes analogue photography, I've got a Leica M9 and M8.2 and ofcourse for analogue work I would like to use a Leica too. So I bought a M6 classic.

 

As I'm only 19 years old and have NO knowledge of analogue photography whatsoever. I would like to get to know some basics so I can go out and try the M6 tomorrow.

 

I won't be developing the film myself for now (haha) but I'll learn this in the course I'm going to follow. But I don't want to look like a complete newbie so I ask you guys for advice!

 

I really like the look of Ilford HP5.

 

But I don't even know how to put the film in place... in the camera. It's strange for me feeling like a complete newbie since I do know allot about 'photography' in it self, as in, how aperture works shutterspeeds, composition, etc. etc.

 

But using a analogue camera is just 'pre-me'!

 

:confused:

Edited by jaapv
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Search for M6 operating manual. Check out Steven Gandys' sight for information. You have a great selection of lenses and the actual operation of the M6 is not too much different from your digital versions. Buy some cheap film and practice loading and unloading. The major difference is no instant feedback. Having a limited amount of exposures and having to wait to see how everything came out is part of both the joy and frustration of analog photography. The are many books on exposing film and try several types. Best of luck and most likely you'll have a lot of answers to your post.

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To add in response to the above post about digital not being any different than film. Well, reversal film (E-6 processed film) is the same as digital in that you need to watch your highlights so that they don't get blown out. But negative film (color and B+W) is different in that you need to expose for your shadows to be sure they record enough detail on the film. The highlights will be denser (with negative film) but that's okay as the detail will be there (the opposite of reversal film and digital.) Expose for the shadows and let the highlights fall where they may. An old rule of thumb with B+W negative film: exposure controls density and development controls contrast.

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Thanks, yes I am lucky, I've started my own 'one man business' last year, I do consultancy on IT related maters. I also help companies save on monthly costs that might be to high, or not necessary at all.

 

I must say I'm spending more money on Leica then I ever did on cameras but it seems worth it.

 

I'm going to study photography in Amsterdam :) I'm in the process of signing up for the 3 year course.

 

Thanks!

Edited by jip
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Here is à picture of the camera and lens I got with it. It's the latest 35mm summicron but not 6bit coded. The M6 itself is the older version (non ttl flash)

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To add in response to the above post about digital not being any different than film. Well, reversal film (E-6 processed film) is the same as digital in that you need to watch your highlights so that they don't get blown out. But negative film (color and B+W) is different in that you need to expose for your shadows to be sure they record enough detail on the film. The highlights will be denser (with negative film) but that's okay as the detail will be there (the opposite of reversal film and digital.) Expose for the shadows and let the highlights fall where they may. An old rule of thumb with B+W negative film: exposure controls density and development controls contrast.

 

I'm tempted to say take out the camera's battery and get an incident light meter like the Seikonic 308. It will teach you alot about light and, very importantly, when to ignore or modify your camera's light reading.

With negative film, to start with, halve the iso for better tonality in the shadows. Don't worry about the highlights so much.

Incidently, use a lens cap on sunny days, especially wide angle lenses, to avoid the chance of the light burning a hole in your M6 cloth shutter.

Also, brace yourself for pretty girls commenting on your "cool camera". It's a bit unnerving at first but you get used to it ;).

Pete

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I'm tempted to say take out the camera's battery and get an incident light meter like the Seikonic 308. It will teach you alot about light and' date=' very importantly, when to ignore or modify your camera's light reading.

With negative film, to start with, halve the iso for better tonality in the shadows. Don't worry about the highlights so much.

Incidently, use a lens cap on sunny days, especially wide angle lenses, to avoid the chance of the light burning a hole in your M6 cloth shutter.

Also, brace yourself for pretty girls commenting on your "cool camera". It's a bit unnerving at first but you get used to it ;).

Pete[/quote']

 

Hahaha, thanks for the tips!

 

And I already had girls say thing about my cool M8/M8.2/M9 haha, guys usually don't really respond to it, which is a shame since I like guys. Haha

 

But yeah reactions from people on Leicas are always funny.

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So what you are saying is if I'm using negative film:

 

Let's say I got my M6 loaded with asa 400 negative film.

 

You say, Set the ISO on the back to 200?

 

So what you are actually saying is 'over expose' the film?

 

How does this work?

 

I do know like someone said it's the way around with NON negative film and digital, so with digital I usually underexpose a little and add some exposure in post.

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You have a beautiful M6 and 35 'cron lens - congratulations!

 

Regarding film photography, with E6 slide film, you have a relatively narrow exposure latitude. Slide film is vulnerable to highlight overexposure (as previously mentioned above) so you have to take that into consideration when setting your exposure.

 

With negative film - both color and black and white - the opposite is true. Negative film is vulnerable to underexposure (the shadows are prone to "blocking up" and appearing as black blobs with no detail). Unlike E6 film, both C41 and B&W films have more exposure latitude and are therefore more forgiving. You don't have to be as exacting in choosing your exposure settings with print film.

 

Black and white print film seemsxto be more forgiving exposure-wise than C41 emulsions. Of all the B&W films, Ilford HP5+ and Kodak Tri-X have the widest exposure latitude (both are ISO 400 emulsions). These two films are pretty much interchangeable and are variations on the ISO 400 B&W theme. Some say HP5+ is a little less contrasty than Tri-X and that HP5+ prints are more "smooth" in appearance thanks to the slightly lower contrast. As for me, I prefer the fingerprint of Tri-X over HP5+ but that doesn't mean that Tri-X is "better." It is different, that's all.

 

As you become accustomed to film photography, I would highly recommend developing your own film at home. B&W film is easy to develop and it costs roughly ten times as much to have a lab develop your film compared to what you can do it yourself for - and developing your own film is both enjoyable and satisfying.

 

A great book for learning about film photography is "Black and White Photography - a basic manual" by Henry Horenstein.

 

Hope the above helps...

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Try using about 2/3 of a stop from the rated film speed. Exposing 400 film at 320 will give you better depth in the shadows without burning out the highlights. You may already have a scanner. Start by reading the threads pertaining to both developing and scanning film. You're on the right path and you'll always find both plenty of advice (and opinions) right here.

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It really gives me a good feeling guys, to have all your support.

 

Without this forum, I would have never know what lenses to buy, and how visoflex works, what adapters I need for my lenses... etc. etc.

 

I probably neither would have dared to buy a analogue Leica camera, simply because I wouldn't know how to use it at first. But this forum gives me the courage to go and buy new leica things and learn about them here on this forum.

 

Thanks again for all the help! Of course I still got 1001 questions, which I'll ask here! haha

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A great book for learning about film photography is "Black and White Photography - a basic manual" by Henry Horenstein.

 

 

Jip, Horenstein's book can be downloaded from the internet: http://lit.lzicka.eu/Black.and.White.Photography.(2005),.3Ed.(036373052).LotB.pdf. Unless you prefer to own a real life copy of course ....

Best regards,

Norbert

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Okay I bought my first roll of film! Kodak BW400CN

 

The guy at the store told me it had to be processed like color film?! C-41 what does this mean to how I shoot the film? Do I still need to NOT worry about the highlights but take care of the shadows?

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Jip, Horenstein's book can be downloaded from the internet: http://lit.lzicka.eu/Black.and.White.Photography.(2005),.3Ed.(036373052).LotB.pdf. Unless you prefer to own a real life copy of course ....

Best regards,

Norbert

 

Thanks for this, I'm used to reading on a screen so I'll take a look! thanks for the URL.

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Okay I bought my first roll of film! Kodak BW400CN

 

The guy at the store told me it had to be processed like color film?! C-41 what does this mean to how I shoot the film? Do I still need to NOT worry about the highlights but take care of the shadows?

 

I think people generally try to expose at exposure index 200 instead of 400. Some say it gets a bit muddy and grainy if exposed at 800. Set the dial on the back of the M6 to 200 and take it from there. Better to use an incident meter set at 200 though, you'll learn more as it will demystify the mystique of exposure and light levels. Don't worry about the highlights, just expose for your subject.

A little information here:

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-103918.html

Pete

Edited by Stealth3kpl
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