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Musing on the M6


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So my M6 arrived:

 

8124512088_bec0480cc5_z.jpg

 

 

Its a lovely camera, and unexpectedly quite weighty, which I like.

I have shown it to some non-photo folk at work and they all think its gorgeous, so not just me!

 

I thought the size would be perfect, it certainly holds beautifully with a basic Luigi half-case, but without a half-case I would prefer the extra 2mm of the M9, perhaps I am just used to this now

 

Observations:

1. Shutter is really quiet, but not as quiet as I thought it would be, perhaps I am unrealistically comparing it with silent shutters. All the quietness I need however

2. Shutter dial could be a tad bigger (my goodness, Ken Rockwell is right)

3, I would prefer finer grained shutter speeds. I often want to underexposure by 1/2 a stop, but mostly I can only eek out a full stop. I know I can use aperture as well, but it would be great to do this with the shutter dial only.

4. I know its slightly non-minimalist, but it would have been great to see the shutter speed in the OVF. I keep taking pictures then realising afterward that the speed was simply too slow.

5. The OVF is not as good as the M9. There can be noticeable flair, and the focus patch is not quite as bright, which makes low light shots a challenge.

6. Its a pity that it won't meter over long periods (e.g. on a tripod).

7. I was worried about the film loading mechanism. Unecessarily as it turns out. Its actually fast and my initial view is that its easier and more precise then backloading arrangements.

8. The film wind and rewind knobs are perfectly balanced, fast and comfortable. I played with a MP and could never use the knarled wheel long term.

9. Does the back ISO wheel do anything ? I think the camera is just set automatically by the film container contacts.

 

Its kind of funny using the latest super-hi-tech 50mm ASPH on a 1986 camera, but it feels right!

Loading film is very relaxing, I had quite forgotten.

 

I was doing some street photography. People were actually smiling at me !!! Is this because its a Friday or they like the camera! I had a pretty girl, on her boyfriend's arm, once tell me she liked my M8 (along time ago)! Only with Leica ......

 

It is a very pretty camera. I have it next to me when I work, so I can keep glancing at it.

 

Perhaps this is a start of something long term!

Edited by colonel
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I have three of these and they are my personal favorite version next to the (black paint!) M4 models. I've been using them since the 1980s. The 'classic' version (which you have) does have the smaller shutter speed dial, but it is the 'correct' one and turns in the 'correct' direction. The only cameras with larger dials and which turn in the 'wrong' direction are the M6 TTL, the M7, and the current M9/M9-P. All the other M cameras (3/2/4/6/MP) have smaller dials and turn in the same direction.

 

Yours is an older Wetzlar version since the red dot says Leitz and not Leica. The later classic M6 bodies were made in Solms and the dot is different (plus yours should be engraved "Wetzlar" on the top deck, unless someone just put a Leitz red dot on it.) The later Solms versions are supposed to be a bit more robust, but that might be nit-picking in real world use.

 

You have to set the ISO dial on the back according to the film you're using. The camera does not electronically read the codes on the 35mm film canister.

 

The flare in the patch can be fixed with non-flare optics (sometimes called the 'MP upgrade') by any good Leica tech for around 200USD. I think it's worth it. I've also had the frame lines masked out for lenses I don't own in order to have a less cluttered viewfinder.

 

If you want to go 'real' minimalist, then take the battery out and use it exactly like the M4 :)

 

Enjoy it. Modern 6 bit coded lenses work extraordinarily great with film, too. :D Try some 100 speed reversal film and you'll be delighted by the color palette and fine grain.

Edited by CalArts 99
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Yours is an older Wetzlar version since the red dot says Leitz and not Leica. The later classic M6 bodies were made in Solms and the dot is different (plus yours should be engraved "Wetzlar" on the top deck, unless someone just put a Leitz red dot on it.)

 

You have to set the ISO dial on the back according to the film you're using. The camera does not electronically read the codes on the 35mm film canister.

 

The flare in the patch can be fixed with non-flare optics (sometimes called the 'MP upgrade') by any good Leica tech for around 200USD. I think it's worth it. I've also had the frame lines masked out for lenses I don't own in order to have a less cluttered viewfinder.

 

Enjoy it. Modern 6 bit coded lenses work extraordinarily great with film, too. :D Try some 100 speed reversal film and you'll be delighted by the color palette and fine grain.

 

interesting, thanks

 

1. It is indeed engraved Wetzlar on the top.

2. thanks for the info on the ISO dial. I did set it. It seems to set in multiple positions, not just on the ISO, which is strange.

3. Non-flare optics - interesting .... I wonder who can do that in the UK ? will research

4. I am trying T-grain Ilford Delta at the moment so will see how that comes out. The whole dimension of choosing and trying film is going to be fun indeed

 

rgds

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What is called an upgrade to the M6 finder is actually putting back something that was taken out. Leicas up to the M5 did not have the flare problem. My M6 was unusable until its finder was fixed. In England, one of the obvious choices is Malcolm Taylor. My guess is that CRR at Luton can also do the job.

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Apparently a condenser lens that brightened the finder was removed sometime during the production of the M4-2. So supposedly the flare began after the original M4 and started with mid production M4-2 bodies on up. The current MP has a reflecting condenser lens back in it, and the 'fix' is to add it (aka the 'MP finder upgrade')

 

It's 'unusable' to the degree that it can flare if your eye is off axis and in certain light conditions. Simply moving your eye can usually correct it. ([Leica] A brief discussion on finder problems) It's more of a nuisance. Plus not everyone experiences it (or at least not that often), and Leica certainly did sell a lot of M6 cameras.

 

fwiw, here's some additional info: Leica FAQ — RF patch flare

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Those who do not know what an M Leica's finder should be, may be able to live with the unmodified M6. I had behind me two decades of experience with an M3 and an M2. In my first roll with the M6 I lost half a dozen shots because I could not focus in time. No trouble at all after the downgrade or restoration.

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Nice camera Harry, congratulations and welcome to the M6 club. Personally I use the TTL though I also have an M4 BP (which, incidentally, is in the classifieds here because I need the cash for the M; so I'd be marching in the opposite direction :) ).

 

About your observations:

 

1. Shutter is really quiet, but not as quiet as I thought it would be, perhaps I am unrealistically comparing it with silent shutters. All the quietness I need however

 

I agree, the shutter is quiet. And there is a great benefit of not having a recocking mechanism. One can wind very quietly.

 

2. Shutter dial could be a tad bigger (my goodness, Ken Rockwell is right)

 

This is one of the reasons I use the TTL. I have also had the M3 before and with it, and the M4, I find that I sometimes have to employ quite a lot of force to turn the wheel with the camera to my eye. The bigger dial of the TTL is magnificently tactile and easy to turn. The other reason I use the TTL is that its dial turns the same way as the aperture on modern M lenses (older screw mounts often (always?) turn the other way). To me, this is the very best and feels extremely intuitive.

 

3, I would prefer finer grained shutter speeds. I often want to underexposure by 1/2 a stop, but mostly I can only eek out a full stop. I know I can use aperture as well, but it would be great to do this with the shutter dial only.

 

Using the ISO dial for this would seem like a bad idea to me. Film - even slide film often - will allow much (and usually 1/2 a stop) to be regained in post. One quickly learns to compensate with the shutter dial and the aperture ring such that it becomes second nature. However, I would agree that it would have been good to have half stops on the shutter dial as well, esp when one wants to shoot wide open.

 

4. I know its slightly non-minimalist, but it would have been great to see the shutter speed in the OVF. I keep taking pictures then realising afterward that the speed was simply too slow.

 

On occasion I will have wandered off to 1/8 or so and realise this when I press the shutter. Usually the image turn out fine anyway. One has to learn within which span one is at any given point in time.

 

5. The OVF is not as good as the M9. There can be noticeable flair, and the focus patch is not quite as bright, which makes low light shots a challenge.

 

Yes there is quite a bit of flare on occasion. I have found it more and more annoying actually but at the same time I have become better at moving the camera slightly to compensate. In any event I will have the MP flare upgrade done to reduce this. The focus patch on mine is very bright, though, like silvery white.

 

About the M3 VF vs every other VF debate - I liked the M3 finder but it wasn't as massive a change as I had been led to believe by online posts. I have the 0.72x in my TTL and find that to be a perfect balance given that I shoot almost equally at 35, 50 and 90.

 

6. Its a pity that it won't meter over long periods (e.g. on a tripod).

 

Do you mean that the meter turns off after a few seconds? Not sure I understand.

 

7. I was worried about the film loading mechanism. Unecessarily as it turns out. Its actually fast and my initial view is that its easier and more precise then backloading arrangements.

 

Yep, agree. So far in just under 100 rolls I have not once had an improperly loaded roll.

 

8. The film wind and rewind knobs are perfectly balanced, fast and comfortable. I played with a MP and could never use the knarled wheel long term.

 

Well here I disagree. I have the M3 rewind on mine and prefer it to the rewind on my M4 which feels flimsy to me (though it does save me a few seconds when rewinding).

 

9. Does the back ISO wheel do anything ? I think the camera is just set automatically by the film container contacts.

 

I see CalArts replied to this. I do find it quite easy to miss the right setting. The push and turn function isn't the very best solution, imho. But as long as I double-check it is ok.

 

Thanks for posting your musings. Looking forward to seeing pictures :)

Cheers

Edited by philipus
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Those who do not know what an M Leica's finder should be, may be able to live with the unmodified M6. I had behind me two decades of experience with an M3 and an M2. In my first roll with the M6 I lost half a dozen shots because I could not focus in time. No trouble at all after the downgrade or restoration.

 

fwiw, I've also had both my M6 bodies modified (plus masking out frame lines for lenses I don't use.) They are like my M4 now.

 

Before having my first M6 modified, I could usually correct it by simply positioning my pupil in the eyepiece correctly. It does take a while if you're used to the M3/2/4 but it's not that difficult after a while. But yes, the real fix is the modification, I agree.

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Welcome to the wonderful world of film Ms. It's where the real fun begins!

 

But perhaps you should have gotten an M7? It checks the items on your list below :D

 

Observations:

2. Shutter dial could be a tad bigger - it is on the M7 - as well as on the M6TTL

3, I would prefer finer grained shutter speeds. you get this on M7 in AE mode

4. I know its slightly non-minimalist, but it would have been great to see the shutter speed in the OVF. you get this on the M7

5. ...the focus patch is not quite as bright, which makes low light shots a challenge. my M7 RF patch is slightly brighter than my M6TTL, but it could just be me

9. Does the back ISO wheel do anything ? I think the camera is just set automatically by the film container contacts. updated M7s autodetect film (older ones won't unless upgraded), AND all M7s have exposure compensation on the ISO wheel

Edited by Ruhayat
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Welcome to the wonderful world of film Ms. It's where the real fun begins!

 

But perhaps you should have gotten an M7? It checks the items on your list below :D

 

I have indeed been thinking about this

There are some nice examples around

TBD

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It's a great camera.I've had my M6ttl now for about 15 years and it's been all over the world with me.It has rode in my bag as a daily carry ever since I bought it and 90% of the problems I've encountered were self inflicted (dropped, knocked etc)

 

I prefer the M6ttl over the regular M6 for the ttl flash support. It's the only mechanical M to offer this feature. I don't use flash that often, but TTL metering goes a long towards making the use of flash less obvious. The difference between the shutter speed dial has never bothered me and I shoot a mix of M2/M4/M4-2/M6ttl and M7, sometimes several bodies at once. You just get used to it and don't even think about it after a while.

 

I prefer the M6ttl over my M7 for long trips, because obviously it's not reliant on batteries for anything but metering.

 

I only have two complaints about the M6 series.

 

For starters you really need to get the flare fix installed. This really does make a huge difference.

 

The other issue that can't be so easily fixed is that ever since the introduction of the M6, the frame lines show what you will get on your negative at .7 meters, instead of 1 meter. A seemingly small difference, but it has a noticeable impact on framing accuracy with lenses that are 50mm or longer, especially in comparison with previous bodies like the M2/M4/M5/M4-P. You can have the frameline mask from the MP3 installed, which apparently is calculated for 1 meter, but that is a very expensive upgrade.

 

So, I shoot the 28/35 on the M6ttl and the 50 goes on the M2/M4.

 

Other then that it's a great, great camera.

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I prefer the M6ttl over my M7 for long trips, because obviously it's not reliant on batteries for anything but metering.

 

I only have two complaints about the M6 series.

 

For starters you really need to get the flare fix installed. This really does make a huge difference..

 

So, I shoot the 28/35 on the M6ttl and the 50 goes on the M2/M4.

 

Other then that it's a great, great camera.

 

thanks

What do you shoot the M7 with ?

Why are the M7 batteries an issue - surely they last quite long ?

 

I have to say I find the flare issue, combined with the notchy small speed dial quite annoying

I am seriously thinking of a M7 now

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Why are the M7 batteries an issue - surely they last quite long ?

 

Without batteries the M7 has only two functioning shutter speeds 1/60 and 1/125.

 

I'm not sure if there's a difference in longevity of the batteries as compared with the M6. The M7 does have an electronically controlled shutter so there might be.

 

But one shouldn't exaggerate the battery dependance of either camera, I think. Batteries are small and easy to take along.

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Why are the M7 batteries an issue - surely they last quite long ?

 

I have to say I find the flare issue, combined with the notchy small speed dial quite annoying

I am seriously thinking of a M7 now

 

As Philip said, the M6 will work at all speeds without batteries and the M7 on only two speeds. I've heard stories of early M7s who needed new batteries after a week, but the first time I changed the batteries in my new M7 was after 7 months and just under 200 rolls.

 

Almost all the issues you have with the M6 would be rectified with a new M7

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thanks

What do you shoot the M7 with ?

Why are the M7 batteries an issue - surely they last quite long ?

 

I have to say I find the flare issue, combined with the notchy small speed dial quite annoying

I am seriously thinking of a M7 now

 

The M6ttl/M7 get the 28/35

The M2/M4/M4-2 get the 28/35/50.

 

Basically I don't shoot the 50 on anything from the M6 up, because of the .7 meter frameline mask (anything pre M6 has a 1 meter mask)

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thanks

What do you shoot the M7 with ?

Why are the M7 batteries an issue - surely they last quite long ?

 

I have to say I find the flare issue, combined with the notchy small speed dial quite annoying

I am seriously thinking of a M7 now

 

The batteries in the M7 last a very long time and I keep a spare set taped to the strap with a strip of black cloth tape. I estimate 50-70 rolls per set of batteries, depending on temperature and how much the meter is used. The battery dependency is not really a big deal. The batteries are tiny. It's a personal thing.

 

The very first M7 batch did not have the flare fix, but we are talking about a very small number of cameras. I purchased my M7 as a display unit from Leica New Jersey through a NY dealer and it was a very early unit without the flare fix, but I simply had it upgraded.

 

The M7 is a great camera.Very sturdy and quieter than most of the mechanical bodies. It also has ttl flash support. My only complaint is the .7 meter frameline mask and I sometimes wish it had an extra AE lock button (aside from the shutter release). Other than that it's brilliant.

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updated M7s autodetect film (older ones won't unless upgraded)

 

All M7 bodies auto-detect film speed (assuming the film canister is DX-coded). The older bodies have contacts located in the film chamber for reading the DX code. The more recent bodies use an optical system. The latter is arguably more reliable and has the benefit that the film canister drops out more easily after being rewound (the older system tends to hold the canister in quite tightly and can be a little awkward to remove). My understanding is that Leica will, on request, upgrade any older M7 to the new optical-DX reader for free.

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  • 2 weeks later...

reading this ...you should trade in for an M7.

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