ray*j*gun Posted October 25, 2012 Share #1 Â Posted October 25, 2012 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi, I'm new to the world of M8's. I recently purchased an upgraded M8, ie M8.2. As I am getting used to this whole new world, I did notice after I updated the firmware to 2.014 that the red light blinks lots more than it did with the previous iteration which was 2.000 (I think). Â I read that the white balance on the 2.014 was much more complicated and that is causing the longer write time. Can someone confirm that or discuss? I am using an 8GB class 10 card shooting fine JPEG for now at 10GB. I will be shooting RAW as soon as I get up to speed with Lightroom. Â Thank you for your help!! Â Raymond Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 25, 2012 Posted October 25, 2012 Hi ray*j*gun, Take a look here M8.2 write times with updtaed firmware. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
phototektour Posted October 25, 2012 Share #2 Â Posted October 25, 2012 So, I only ever had firmware 2.014, I can't realy help you. But btw. also a fully upgraded M8 will never be a M8.2. There are still differences i.e. exposure correction by thumb wheel. Â Â :-) Rainer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray*j*gun Posted October 25, 2012 Author Share #3 Â Posted October 25, 2012 Oh.....Ok then a fully upgraded M8 is an M8u? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted October 25, 2012 Share #4 Â Posted October 25, 2012 An M8 can be upgraded in 3 ways: shutter, frame lines and/or sapphire screen. Any or all constitute an upgraded camera, which many refer to as an M8u. Â The M8.2 is a stand-alone camera, which doesn't start life as an M8. It differs from a fully upgraded M8 in various ways, e.g., black paint instead of black chrome, black logo on black camera, snapshot mode, exposure comp. via thumbwheel, body covering, etc. Â Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted October 26, 2012 Share #5 Â Posted October 26, 2012 BTW, 2.014 is actually intended to do the opposite, i.e., optimize and speed up internal processes as described in a different forum post. Â Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray*j*gun Posted October 26, 2012 Author Share #6 Â Posted October 26, 2012 Thanks Jeff, Â I'm familiar with that RFF post. Â But, on the Leica web site under FAQ there is a response (from Leica) that indicated that the WB algorithm for the updated firmware will add write time. This is one reason I am asking the question here. I did experience this issue and was hoping to get some help. Â Did anyone else notice this when the firmware was updated? Â Thanks! Â Raymond. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iedei Posted October 26, 2012 Share #7 Â Posted October 26, 2012 Advertisement (gone after registration) Oh.....Ok then a fully upgraded M8 is an M8u? Â i use the term M8.1....as it is much nicer on the eyes 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray*j*gun Posted October 26, 2012 Author Share #8 Â Posted October 26, 2012 I don't mind calling it an M8, I was just trying to be as accurate as possible in the process of asking for some feedback. Â Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerren Posted October 26, 2012 Share #9 Â Posted October 26, 2012 Ray, did you always shoot Jpeg fine + RAW? if not, it takes much longer to write these files vs, just Jpeg, or just RAW alone. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted October 26, 2012 Share #10  Posted October 26, 2012 Not to be sarcastic, but write time is a dog on my M8 & 9 and a family members M8. If it is slower, it is not so much as to be noticed assuming the M9 is the same as M8.2 which I do not have. The Nikons seen much faster.  Buy SDHC with fast write speeds, 30 mb/sec to minimize write times, but beware it is probably more of a processing time than write time problem. Cards are cheap anyway  I use Sandisk or Lexar and Lexar has a sale until 10/31 at B&H. 16 GB will hold 400+ raw uncompressed M9 files. M8 is smaller size and compressed. 8 GB should be sufficient for M8. Buy a pair of either. Stay away from bargain cards. Do not delete images, only reformat in camera. Format in camera before the first pic.  Do not push the play button until the red light stops blinking. The electronics seem not robust enough to read and write at the same time. This seems to be the root cause of card failures and lost images. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted October 27, 2012 Share #11 Â Posted October 27, 2012 (edited) Card failures are pretty rare on the M8 and M8.2. Even the M9 seems to be reliable now, judging by the quiet in the SD card forums. I cannot judge whether the reason is that Sandisk have gotten their act together, or Leica, or both. At any rate I do delete to hearts content and switch off whilst blinking and yet have to suffer one lost shot. But I have always formatted my cards in the camera instead of using delete all or the computer. Edited October 27, 2012 by jaapv Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
k-hawinkler Posted October 27, 2012 Share #12 Â Posted October 27, 2012 :D Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted October 27, 2012 Share #13 Â Posted October 27, 2012 But I am paranoid enough to use Panasonic Gold cards for shoots that matter to me... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
k-hawinkler Posted October 27, 2012 Share #14 Â Posted October 27, 2012 But I am paranoid enough to use Panasonic Gold cards for shoots that matter to me... Â Â :) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray*j*gun Posted October 27, 2012 Author Share #15 Â Posted October 27, 2012 Thank you all for the tips! As a reminder this is my first digital RF and I am as such a newbie that I didn't realize that an M8.2 was different than an M8 fully upgraded. Â I use a class 10 8GB card. I'm told that is as fast as there is. Â I was making the comparison shooting jpeg vs jpeg. Â I have been using the delete all command on the camera which I will cease doing. Â My only other digital experience was with a Nikon D90 which did seem to process faster but my concern with the M8 was only in relation to the change in times after the firmware download that I performed. Â So far I have not lost any pics and now that I have Lightroom loaded up I will only be shooting RAW. Â Again thank you all for your suggestions. Â Raymond Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JMF Posted October 27, 2012 Share #16 Â Posted October 27, 2012 Enjoy ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted November 1, 2012 Share #17 Â Posted November 1, 2012 The best way to handle WB on any Digital M is to Whi Bal Card or Expo Disk for sun and save as a preset profile. Make a profile for your studio also. Just pull the auto function out of the calculation. Â Save auto for mixed lighting situations. Â Whi Bal alters the green magenta bal + blue yellow where as the camera settings is restricted to blue yellow only. One up for Nikon, as I can adjust both. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray*j*gun Posted November 2, 2012 Author Share #18 Â Posted November 2, 2012 Thanks good tip....! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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