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Guest guy_mancuso

Testing the New WATE

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that's right Guy

restoring the verticals is part of it

after that, you sometimes need to examine the height too,

as images can tend to look wider, or squatter

 

i dont see any barrelling at all, looks good

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Guest guy_mancuso

Just a little barrel but not to bad , this need the prespective corrected but the first post has a slght barrel to it but overall very good lens in this area. Hope this is not boring anyone but nice to check out a lens before you buy one.Hopefully this thread helps some folks

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Guest guy_mancuso

Little fix . i could probably use a little program that fixes barrel here a little. The real trick for shots like these is to be on a ladder so you can keep the camera level without pointing up or down. Here is were a shift lens comes into play

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I think Guy's done well to keep the camera level - you don't see the convering verticals when shooting as you do when looking through the lens, which is where that spirit level comes in useful with the Leica finder.

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in the office, while we have both PS CS8 and PSP9&10, i use paint shop pro all the time for barrel distortion correction, and realigning the verticals. All those tools together with pincushion removal etc are built right in, and it accepts PS pluggins for noise ninja etc.

 

Its an absolute snap to use and can be written into macros just like PS to automate the process. It has a much lower cpu overhead, but of course wont run on the macs.

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Mark -

 

Sign me up for one of your modified hood connectors, if you do go into production!

 

And think about how the filter glass is secured...glue isn't the best way perhaps - it could flow onto the filter and destroy it, or if it doesn't hold the filter might bang into the front element?

 

Steve, yes, I can imagine you have images in mind of gloopy drops of superglue or epoxy smeared across the filter... I plan to shape the recess where the filter sits to facilitate using a low viscosity cyanoacrylate adhesive - Loctite 4062 - to wet the surface around the rim which should allow the filter glass to be pressed into position.

 

I'll obviously be doing some testing and I'm expecting to do as least two design iterations, including testing just how strong the bond is.

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Guest guy_mancuso

Trying LR for B&W. All off these have been in lightroom. This was at the 21mm setting

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Guest guy_mancuso

I just found something in LR that is pretty cool. Try this take a image and hit the greyscale tab. Than there is a Grayscale mixer below that like 8 different colors as you adjust red say that color is the only color adjusted by the slider . So say there is a blue sign in the image in the B&W you can make that stand out more or darken it to hide it. Okay it's late and looking at this stuff to long

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Mark -

Sorry I even bothered to question your approach - it sounds grand and I'm sure you'll get it "Leica-right".

-S

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I just found something in LR that is pretty cool. Try this take a image and hit the greyscale tab. Than there is a Grayscale mixer below that like 8 different colors as you adjust red say that color is the only color adjusted by the slider . So say there is a blue sign in the image in the B&W you can make that stand out more or darken it to hide it. Okay it's late and looking at this stuff to long

 

Guy

 

I don't know if you are aware of it but Jeff Schewe and Michael Reichmann did a great set of tutorials on Lightroom. What triggered me on this is your comments on B&W conversions. They spent quite a bit of time on this and it was really helpful to me.

 

You may want to check it out. I think it is $14.95 and is available as a set of video downloads.

 

Woody

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Guest guy_mancuso

Hell Woody I taught them everything they know. ROTFLMAO

 

Just kidding. I have not seen any tutorials yet. You know that old saying that us men never do "Read the _________ Manual"

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Guest sirvine

People tend to think of Lightroom as a dumbed-down photoshop, but the develop module in Lightroom is revolutionary for RAW processing. It's far and away the best interface for curves and channel mixing. The recovery and fill light sliders are basically tone mapping tools for the rest of us. And now that there's cloning/healing, photoshop seems like a step backward.

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Wilson-

I do not as of yet have the WATE. In my comments about the O ring debacle, I was referrring to the recent Antarctic trip described on the Luminous Landscape website.

 

Mark-

Your idea is an excellent one but i would caution you against glueing the filter to the adaptor. Could you just screw it in? This would alllow the eventual placement of other filters if needed.

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Needless to say, if the adaptor does come into production, COUNT ME IN !

BTW, are you using SK Grimes? They have alot of good ideas and may even refine your design.

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Guest guy_mancuso

Sol from what previews I saw from C1 Version 4 this is also in there new software coming and right now the biggest reason for me to use Lightroom is the recovery, highlight and fill sliders which does make this program very powerfull .I agree completely on this . These kinds of controls for a shooter that deals with high contrast like all these test images I have shot here is essential for us. i live in one of the brightest places in the world and it is very hard to shoot in this kind of light without the excellent latitude of the DMR and M8 but having these tools is such a help too me. Honestly this is one of the main reasons i shoot leica is because of the range these sensors have, of course the glass also but the range get's so ignored by folks buying digital camera's this is so very important and folks overlook this aspect.

 

BTW i did recieve a note from Stefan Daniels he has been a little under the weather and back in the office now but is better now and working on the laundry lists we have talked about and i also pointed him to this thread to look at what the results of the WATE are and to look at Marks filter holder idea.

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Guest guy_mancuso
Wilson-

I do not as of yet have the WATE. In my comments about the O ring debacle, I was referrring to the recent Antarctic trip described on the Luminous Landscape website.

 

Mark-

Your idea is an excellent one but i would caution you against glueing the filter to the adaptor. Could you just screw it in? This would alllow the eventual placement of other filters if needed.

 

 

Albert I was thinking the same thing , if the filter gets damaged than it would need to be replaced. i did say earlier a slot that the filter just sits on and held in place when you screw the hood back on. This gives you the option to use it or not very easy . Just a thought

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Albert, I'm using a company which is 10 minutes away from me, it's much better that I can go over and show them the WATE and the existing solution rather than try to describe it. If I lived in Boston, I'm quite sure SK Grimes would be a good choice.

 

I have looked at using a screw-in filter but my starting position is to be able to use the lens hood and cap which comes with the WATE and the most important thing is to avoid vignetting on the M8. That requires the filter glass to be as large as possible and as close as possible to the front lens element, without actually touching it.

 

There's no doubt that Leica could make this filter holder - they already have the CNC programming to cut the male and female threads and they could source a filter glass without having to cut it out of the ring which is what I have to do. Nothing would please me more than to see them do it... it's hardly going to put me out of business... LOL.

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Guest guy_mancuso

Mark sorry I assumed you were using SK Grimes all along, my bad there. I think this is Marks whole point is to get a working filter holder for him to use with the WATE . Now I am sure he would much rather have leica do this in the first place and it is great idea's like this that can be passed to leica to look at and make the product better. My hat is off to Mark for taking the time and effort in this that could benefit all of us.

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Guest guy_mancuso

This first one was at 21mm but I messed up at shot it at ISO 640. It held the distortion very well here and nice straight lines. i just found in CS3 a setting called warp that could fix the barrel distortion for the 16mm setting. BTW barrel is very normal at this focal length on any lens the WATE is actually pretty darn good

 

This image the noise holds up very well for ISO 640 which no one would use this setting in this type of light, I just messed up

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Thanks Guy, I was in touch with SK Grimes, but decided that it would be better to work with someone local. Much easier to sit around a workbench and thrash out the detail!

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