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Leica Binos


jimleicam3

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Agree 100%. What's more, really good binoculars last decades - so even if you don't wear glasses now, you may well need them later so it's best to buy binoculars designed to work well with them.

 

 

This is only practical if your distance vision is reasonably good without glasses. Otherwise, the distraction of removing glasses and raising binoculars means you lose track of whatever it was you wanted to look at!

Leica binoculars have a simple but effective system ; Slide the eyecups in for use with glasses, out for use without glasses. Eye relief is more than sufficient.

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I know that this is an odd question to ask on a camera site, but I am looking to add a pair of binos to my Leica stable (M3, M8, X-2). Does anyone have any info on the Leica Bino's? We are big bird watchers, and I need a new pair of bino's. Thanks, Jim

 

8x40/42 I think is the most useful.

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I have a pair of 8x30BAs (I think that's what they are) bought secondhand many years ago. When I bought them my wife said "How much?!" and then tried them. She still thinks that they are superb and would sanction another pair if required. Despite their age and use they remain fabulous binoculars. I am at something of a loss to understand how they could be improved substantially but perhaps lighter weight might make a difference when carrying them around. You really cannot go far wrong with Leica binoculars - most serious birders I know use them. If I were in a position to buy new I might well try a pair of 10x, but the 8x are really useful all rounders.

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Leica binos have always been excellent. If you compare older models with current ones side by side, you will find that the new ones are noticeably brighter. Today, a new 8x32 is as bright as a 20 or 25 year old 8x40 or 8x42. Optical quality has also improved, although that is not as readily apparent as the improved brightness.

 

Andy

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I have gone through several generations of binoculars. So I have made a couple of observations:

 

As magnificcation increases, so does 'bino shake' until it really makes accurate viewing impossible. I understand that there may be individual variation between users, but for me, 10x in a reasonably sized package is the useful maximum. Strap support can be a useful aid the steady holding, as with cameras.

 

Mini-binos are great for carrying in a jacket pocket, and I do carry a Ultravid 8X20, but the specs make for exit pupils with a diamerter of 2.5mm. The reason why you have trouble seeing through a pair of binos is usually that one of your own pupils misses one of the bino's exit pupils. Really small exit pupils like these call for very exact alignment of the pupils. You have to set the pupil distance just right and develop a way of bringing the instrument up to the eyes in a very precise way. This will often slow you down.

 

Here comes the heresy. I needed a pair of full size binos, 10x42 or thereabouts, which I could use with my varifocals on, like I do with the Ultravid. A specialised shop in Stockholm has a good assortment. I tried out offerings from Leica, Zeiss and Nikon – and a 'No Great Name' brand, Magni-Pro, carried by the shop. I found to my surprise that these were clearly better then the best Nikon could offer, about equal to the best of Zeiss, and marginally inferior to Leica – but at a fraction of the price. They were nitrogen-filled, watertight, rubber-covered and with specs-compatible eyepieces. The sensible choice was to buy them, and that I did. Will I languish eternally in a non-Leica hell? No.

 

The old man who saw the crescent of Venus with his bare eyes once

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In 1985 I purchased some 7x42 Trinovids in green rubber. They were magnificent binoculars, and came into their own in low light, but their size and weight meant that I often left them behind when carrying my R6 and five R-series lenses.

 

After being on a trek with my R-system (sans 7x42s) and seeing others using their compact 10x25s, I sold the 7x42s and bought a pair of 10x25 Ultravids. Although I prefer the brightness of the 7x42s, I find that the compactness and lightness of the 10x25s means that I am using them a lot more. They are superb binoculars and, if greater usage means a wiser choice, then I made a wise choice in buying the 10x25s. Alas, the R-system has also gone, but perhaps I may - one day - get a M10 system.

 

Ian

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I have a Trinovid 8x40 BA for home and garden, which I bought off priced in about 1990.

A friend of mine machined a pair of sunglasses for it. I wanted to see sunspots, that works fine.

I also made a tripod connection.

For trips I have no bino, the Trinovid is somewhat too heavy.

 

Interesting is a WW2 6x30 (Wehrmacht) I inheritated from my father in law. The quality is very good, but one sees the development of the optics over 50 years.

Jan

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I bought a pair of Trinovid 8x32B back in the 1970s, and they have been outstanding. A good combination of power, brightness, and size. This was before all the model proliferation since. Today I'd be too confused to select one. I was able to get new eyecups from Leica NJ a while back.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ultravid HD's if you have the deep pockets or are very sensitive to weight.

Used Trinovids if you want to save some money, the actually light transmissions are not that much nor the optical differences.

I've had a pair of 8x20 Trin for 30 years for the Opera etc. I recently purchased 8x50 Trin BN for hunting and birding.

I also just got the 85mm Televid Spotting Scope if you want the ultimate in Leica birding equipment.-Dick

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've had a pair of 8X25 Trinovid BCA for about 15 years. They seem to be a pretty good optic for the size and price. The size is nice and small so they often get taken along where a larger, heavier, brighter, nicer pair would be left at home.

Edited by RickLeica
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  • 7 months later...

I am a professional mariner, so my bino needs are a bit different than most people's. I don't want too much magnification as they are difficult to hold steady in sea way and cause eye fatigue after a few hours of scanning.

 

Most ships carry 7x or 8x binoculars, typically 35 or 40mm front element diameter. The toughest time to observe contacts is at dusk where the running lights aren't bright enough to see clearly, but the light isn't good enough to clearly see the hull either. Typical subject distance on large ships vary from about 0.5 nm to 18 nm. Given these circumstances, I generally prefer lower magnification with large diameter elements over weight concerns.

 

My personal set is a 8 x 56 HD Geovid. This set gives me good magnification coupled with excellent light gathering capability along with a rangefinder which assists with docking.

 

JCA

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