robsteve Posted November 30, 2012 Share #41 Posted November 30, 2012 Advertisement (gone after registration) Here are the test shots at all 4 permutations. Very little if any difference to be seen in vignetting. All taken with a 135/4 Tele-Elmar at f4 Given that these are in camera JPEG's and all taken within seconds of each other in a north facing room, then all processed identically in CS6 with no alterations made at all, other than re-size, the slight variations in white balance are slightly surprising. Maybe the Maestro processor in the new M-240 will be more consistent. Wilson Wilson: I think when Leica does len corrections, they also do a bit of colour correction in the process. In the other thread when I played with my 400mm f2.8 on the DMR with and without lens corrections, the one with corrections seemed a little less cyan or green. This is even with the colour temp in Lightroom at the same value for both lenses. I also notice that Nikon seems to be doing it on my D800E, ie colour correction specific to the lens as well as vignette correction. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted November 30, 2012 Posted November 30, 2012 Hi robsteve, Take a look here M lens codes. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Erik Gunst Lund Posted December 7, 2012 Share #42 Posted December 7, 2012 Thank you Andy. It is not the latest version though. That of 15.11.2011 adds: Lens Name: Super-Elmar-M 21mm f/3.4 ASPH. Product # Black: 11145 Product # Chrome: - Lens Code: 110011 Value: 51 Picture: - Frames: 28/90 Other Lenses: - Thanks! This code is also more suitable for the cheap and fantastic Voigtlander 21mm 4.0 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted December 7, 2012 Share #43 Posted December 7, 2012 Yes this is my favorite code for this superb little lens as well. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
elvispreasley Posted December 12, 2012 Share #44 Posted December 12, 2012 Hello to everybody! Could you help me to be clear with next question: What do I need to use to put the code stripes on a lens? (some paint or what?) I have M8 and today my Voigtlander Color Heliar 75mm 2.5 gonna arrive, so I probably need to make it coded - to use it in proper way) Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobitybob Posted December 12, 2012 Share #45 Posted December 12, 2012 Hello to everybody! Could you help me to be clear with next question: What do I need to use to put the code stripes on a lens? (some paint or what?) I have M8 and today my Voigtlander Color Heliar 75mm 2.5 gonna arrive, so I probably need to make it coded - to use it in proper way) Elvis, welcome to the Forum. On the assumption you know nothing (forgive me if this is incorrect), you first need to obtain a 50-75 LTM to bayonet adaptor for your lens. Thees are readily available on e-bay and will allow the screw thread lens to be used on the bayonet camera. It will also bring up the correct frame lines in the viewfinder allowing you to accurately compose the image. If possible I would get one that has the coding insets machined into the rim. Otherwise, dots you add will ultimately rub off as you change lenses. Just use a black permanent marker to fill in the appropriate code as per the link above ie. use a Summarit 75 for your Voigtlander 75 lens (don't worry about the white ones just leave these as silver and it should still work). Don't forget to switch on auto lens detection in the M8 menu. If all goes well you should get the correct frame lines and the camera will make some corrections to the image as it is captured and processed. It will also record the lens identification in the Exif date of the image that programs like Lightroom and Aperture can read. Note this will be Summarit 75 not Voigtlander 75 as Leica does not produce 6 bit codes for other manufactures lenses. Having said all of this the only thing you really need is the adaptor and the camera and lens will still produce very acceptable results without 6 bit coding. Hope this is helpful and I look forward to seeing some of the pictures your new camera and lens produces. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
elvispreasley Posted December 12, 2012 Share #46 Posted December 12, 2012 (edited) Elvis, welcome to the Forum. On the assumption you know nothing (forgive me if this is incorrect), you first need to obtain a 50-75 LTM to bayonet adaptor for your lens. Thees are readily available on e-bay and will allow the screw thread lens to be used on the bayonet camera. It will also bring up the correct frame lines in the viewfinder allowing you to accurately compose the image. If possible I would get one that has the coding insets machined into the rim. Otherwise, dots you add will ultimately rub off as you change lenses. Just use a black permanent marker to fill in the appropriate code as per the link above ie. use a Summarit 75 for your Voigtlander 75 lens (don't worry about the white ones just leave these as silver and it should still work). Don't forget to switch on auto lens detection in the M8 menu. If all goes well you should get the correct frame lines and the camera will make some corrections to the image as it is captured and processed. It will also record the lens identification in the Exif date of the image that programs like Lightroom and Aperture can read. Note this will be Summarit 75 not Voigtlander 75 as Leica does not produce 6 bit codes for other manufactures lenses. Having said all of this the only thing you really need is the adaptor and the camera and lens will still produce very acceptable results without 6 bit coding. Hope this is helpful and I look forward to seeing some of the pictures your new camera and lens produces. Wow, Bob! Such an extremely full answer! First of all - thank you for the "Welcom" greeting. Second: honestly you were a little bit wrong about my knowledge according to the Leica) I have it already around month - no to much, but long enough to know already 99% information from your answer. Only one thing, that I was not sure - is the type of the marker, what I need to use for the coding) But really appreciated for you helpful answer! BTW: Just pick up my NEW Color Heliar (probably the last new lens in my country) and found really BIG surprise: internet shop, where I bought a lens add for free original Voigtlander M-adapter and original (!!!) Voigtlander external viewfinder with 75mm frames, that is really strange, cause the price of this set on B&H is more than 1\3 part of price Color Heliar Tomorrow I'm gonna try to make a test of this lens, if the weather gonna be good enough. BTW: as I found from a quick test shots - the Voightlander external viewfinder 75th frames doesn't give exact picture if I'm using it during the shot. Probably need some more practice? Edited December 12, 2012 by elvispreasley Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted January 8, 2013 Share #47 Posted January 8, 2013 Advertisement (gone after registration) ...This code is also more suitable for the cheap and fantastic Voigtlander 21mm 4.0 Code 3 (000011) shows less red shift on my M8.2. M8 codings - lctphot's samples (M8.2, CV 21/4, f/11, UV/IR filter on, lens detection: "On + UV/IR") Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Gunst Lund Posted January 13, 2013 Share #48 Posted January 13, 2013 Our versions of the 21mm 4 Voigtlander must behave very different then, mine has no red shift when I code it as 21mm 3.4 and use a UV/IR filter on M8u with uv/ir code on... at all apertures, also almost takes care of vignetting only +10 amount is required in Adobe raw converter if perfect vignette less images are required... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted January 13, 2013 Share #49 Posted January 13, 2013 Red shift is more or less visible depending on codings but it is always there in my tests (LCD monitor with grey wallpaper shot at ~ 50cm). The 21/3.4 coding gives good results in real life photos though (http://tinyurl.com/b95dw58). Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Gunst Lund Posted January 14, 2013 Share #50 Posted January 14, 2013 (edited) I did a couple of test images of a white door: Leica M8u CV 21mm f/4 shot at f/11 +2 dial in exposure (image info show f/4...?) tripod, coded as 21mm f/3.4 Asph UV/IR on, No edit except WB with click white, all other settings in ACR at 0 First image with indirect light. And this one with additional light from a lamp Exceptional performance IMHO Edited January 14, 2013 by Erik Gunst Lund Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted January 14, 2013 Share #51 Posted January 14, 2013 Red shift is there but would be more visible if you tried my test i guess. Yours is certainly closer to real-life photos under bright light conditions though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Gunst Lund Posted January 14, 2013 Share #52 Posted January 14, 2013 Sorry I fail to see or measure red shift, could you elaborate please? Also I see very low vignetting... nothing even close to your posted images. Full jpg on Flickr Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted January 14, 2013 Share #53 Posted January 14, 2013 I see some red shift on my monitor but i don't mind to look at your jpegs of course (would you have a link?). Now i've got similar results as yours when shooting reflecting surfaces already so i suspect we're comparing apples to oranges here. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Gunst Lund Posted January 14, 2013 Share #54 Posted January 14, 2013 They are here When measuring with PhotoShop the corners are around 220 +/- 3 with lower Reds than Blue and Green in all corners... 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cto4cwh Posted January 30, 2013 Share #55 Posted January 30, 2013 I have recently acquired a Rollei 40mm Sonnar f2.8 HFT, but it seems there is no correspoinding code for it. Has anyone used this lens and what is the most compatible code for it? Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted January 30, 2013 Share #56 Posted January 30, 2013 My best guess would be the 35mm/f2.5 Summarit - see code below. This would however be dependant on the lens bringing up the 35/135 frame lines. If it brings up any other frames, this is an easy alteration, as it involves removing metal rather than adding it. Wilson Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/185433-m-lens-codes/?do=findComment&comment=2228657'>More sharing options...
Robert_M Posted January 30, 2013 Share #57 Posted January 30, 2013 The Rollei 40mm f/2.8 is LTM but was supplied with a LTM-to-M adapter for 50mmm frames. It is an easy matter to put a 35mm adapter on instead. If one is going to code the lens physically (rather than through the camera menu), one will have to change the adapter in any case since the stock one is not the full flange type so it does not cover the coding LED area. The 35mm summarit code can not be done through the menu. Try the 35mm f/2 summicron (non-asph) code if using the menu. Both should work well. I physically coded mine using the summarit code, partly to distinguish it in the exif data and avoid confusion with other lenses I have. I recently acquired one of these lenses also and have been comparing with my 40mm summicron-c. But that discussion belongs in other threads..... RM Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cto4cwh Posted January 31, 2013 Share #58 Posted January 31, 2013 Thanks wlaidlaw and Robert. To Robert, can you please post the link to the discussion on the Rollei? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hifigraz Posted February 1, 2013 Share #59 Posted February 1, 2013 Hi! The Elmarit-M 21mm f/2.8 also works fine for the Voigtlaender 12mm. Maybe this can be added to the list. Best Robert Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted February 1, 2013 Share #60 Posted February 1, 2013 Hi! The Elmarit-M 21mm f/2.8 also works fine for the Voigtlaender 12mm. Maybe this can be added to the list. Best Robert ....and I think for the Voigtlander 15mm as well. However I also use manual setting of the 21 Elmarit for the 28 Summicron when used between f2 and f4, where I don't think the standard correction from the coding is strong enough. The standard coding is just fine from f4 upwards. Wilson Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.