75mm Summicron owners.

[farnz]

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... Mandler designed the 75/1.4 and it has his signature. I do not know who designed the 75/2.0 ...

Peter Karbe, who also designed the 50/1.4 Summilux-M ASPH and 50/2 APO-Summicron-M ASPH amongst others.

 

Pete.

[hoppyman]

Peter Karbe, who also designed the 50/1.4 Summilux-M ASPH and 50/2 APO-Summicron-M ASPH amongst others.

 

Pete.

For which we True Believers regularly give praise to the optical Gods

[mirekti]

Can one shoot with this lens wide open at noon or one has to have an ND filter?

[erl]

Can one shoot with this lens wide open at noon or one has to have an ND filter?

Short answer, yes!

Long answer, depends on your ISO and max shutter speed available.

[mirekti]

I plan on buying one 3 stop for 35 lux and just wondered will I need one for 75 once the M arrives.

I guess it will be iso 200 and 1/4000.

Is there an easy way to calculate shutter speed needed based on focal lenght, aperture, iso and average ev in the daylight or some table online?

[erl]

Mirekti, I don't know what your level of experience is, but May I suggest you don't try to decide your exposure until you are about to shoot. Too many variables can upset your choice at any moment. Trust the exposure meter in the camera and don't fret if you have to stop down. The 75 Cron does real magic, even stopped down.

[hoppyman]

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Maybe of interest.

I have been trying to push myself more with my APO Summicron recently and find that I can deliberately induce flare if I work at it. Probbly some contribution by noise though, these being at 1000 ISO. I still don't have my M to try it on

Meow! photo - Geoff Hopkinson photos at pbase.com

Crystal shines in flare photo - Geoff Hopkinson photos at pbase.com

Hayley photo - Geoff Hopkinson photos at pbase.com

[robert_parker]

I've owned both the APO and the Summarit and have held onto the Summarit. This is because I fund the APO devastatingly hard to focus accurately on my M8.2 and also quite contrasty. I fund the Summarit much easier to focus and that gradations in tone were much smoother and for me more subtle - I could add contrast in PS if I wanted. The Summarit is also very compact (it could pass for a 50 with no hood on, which is how I use it).

 

That being said, if you like the 50 'Lux APO then you might easily like the 75 'cron, as it is in essence the same computation but 'stretched'.

 

I suspect that most will buy the 'cron and either love it or hate it and then move to one of the other two based on how strong that reaction is.

[MarkP]

Well I love it!

The 75 Summicron can indeed paint a fine photograph...

 

Clearing Rain. Off Bondi, Sydney

M9, 2.0/75 Summicron ASPH

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[billo101]

Bokeh test, M9 w/75AA:

 

 

 

b

[Richardgb]

I've owned both the APO and the Summarit and have held onto the Summarit. This is because I fund the APO devastatingly hard to focus ...

 

Having had the 75/2 for rather more than a couple of years, I've devised a couple of tips for helping the hit-rate for accurate focus. Both points also apply to other focal-lengths, of course.

 

First, assuming the subject allows the time, is to focus with the focus-ring and then to slightly rock backwards and forwards watching the rangefinder image. This is more useful with closer subjects.

 

Second, do not focus too far into the subject. This applies to oblique views or where the subject is in several planes over some distance. In general, at large subject distances, there is more depth-of-field behind the focus point than in front; if you focus too far back, the nearest point won't be 'sharp' enough. This is certainly more noticeable in the digital age where (as others have said), it's easy to look at big enlargements on the computer screen from an inappropriately-close distance.

 

I also use the 1.4x viewfinder magnifier - Forum opinion varies on this!

[thighslapper]

Didn't use my 75/2 asph much on the m9 but it produces superb images on my m240 and is my default choice if it's a single lens day.......

[billo101]

Please post some example...

 

b

[Leicakillen]

This is because I fund the APO devastatingly hard to focus accurately on my M8.2 and also quite contrasty.

 

Quite contrary, I find my 75 Summicron very easy to focus, actually easier than focusing my Summilux 50. The Summicron 75 is now my absolute favourite for close-up images at f 2,0 with very narrow DOF. I really highly recommend this lens. I have not used the Summarit.

 

/Anders

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[40mm f/2]

on which of these flowers you actually focused?

[henning]

I feel my Summicron 75 is possibly the best Leica M lens I have, optically, but I just LOVE my Summilux. The latter would be one of the last lenses I would ever part with.

 

I don't have problems focussing either of them.

 

Henning

[Leicakillen]

on which of these flowers you actually focused?

I focused on the the biggest one, the one slightly on the right side. In the image there are two of the flowers that are perfectly in focus.

Another example, see below. Focus on the flower in the middle. Both images @ 2,0.

I really like the 0,7 m close range limit of this lens.

/Anders

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[erl]

Because I know how good this lens is, I am sure the jpeg presentation on the internet is degrading it. The subject matter is more critical and suffers from the repro here.

[hoppyman]

I wonder whether some of the very different experiences reported are affected by several variables?

Are people testing carefully on a good tripod in controlled conditions or just recalling from general experience in use?

 

Have the lenses where people have experienced difficulty been tested on other cameras?

 

Are the camera range finders calibrated precisely? any error may be more obvious with critical focus scenarios, for example if the lens is wide open and/or the focus distance is close. You may not even see small errors in many situations.

 

Does the camera focus accurately with other lenses and scenarios that also have little room for error?

 

Are people's individual eyesight states allowing for the sharpest, highest contrast range finder image in the viewfinder?

 

In critical scenarios are people focussing exactly on where they want the sharpest plane to be or trying to use a different plane to have more in front/behind in acceptable focus?

 

This specific lens for me was calibrated by Solms in 2009 and has remained accurate on my M8 and then my M9 (for last three and a half years) since.

 

For comparison my others lenses are all in agreement so I am confident that the camera as a baseline is adjusted properly.

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Hallo,

Look here: Leica M

[jaapv]

I plan on buying one 3 stop for 35 lux and just wondered will I need one for 75 once the M arrives.

I guess it will be iso 200 and 1/4000.

Is there an easy way to calculate shutter speed needed based on focal lenght, aperture, iso and average ev in the daylight or some table online?

 

Sunny f16 since time immemorial

 

Set the shutter to the reciprocal of the ISO value and:

 

 

 

Aperture......................Lighting Conditions

 

f/22 Snow/Sand...........High contrast.

f/16 Sunny..................Distinct shadows and highlights

f/11 Slight Overcast.....Soft medium contrast

f/8 Overcast................Low contrast

f/5.6 Heavy Overcast ..No shadows

f/4 Open Shade

 

Add one stop for backlight

 

For the 75 ISO/speed 200(250) should be fine.

However, I would recalculate for the apertures 11 to 22 to avoid diffraction.

 

Leica does provide a nice meter in the camera which takes the guesswork out of exposure.