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disappointed by Summilux 35 FLE


frogfish

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I am surprised that you did not comment on the horizontal bar across the sun in your "test" picture. This bar appears because you overexposed the sun to the point where the electrons start to wildly move across the sensor. At these levels of overexposure, you are close to the point where physical damage to the camera or your eye is possible. So this shot would have been unusable in any case. It would be interesting to see a comparison shot between the Leica and the Nikon 35 under the same and especially more reasonable conditions.

 

The effect you were observing is spherochromatism, which happens with many fast lenses. It probably becomes only so visible, as the Leica lens is contrasty enough to show the purple fringes. Without shooting directly into the sun, they are no issue at all. Yet, you might also try the Summarit, if you don't need the 1.4 aperture.

 

Peter

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Yeh, would loved to use the original 35 Summilux, but I don´t like 1 meter minimum focus distance.

And I need the 1.4 dreamy background/ subject isolation.

 

Here another picture where the highlights in the background is not so strong but still blown out. Much better as you see. It is not sharp, I know :)

 

Heiko

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1.4/35 Summilux ASPH/FLE = razor sharp

1.4/35 Summilux ASPH FLE ≠ dreamy

 

Methinks it is the wrong lens for your task, not an inferior lens (I love mine)

Methinks the advice about pre-ASPH/FLE 35mm lenses is good advice.

Methinks you should sell the lens to CalArts99 and buy an old 35mm Summilux or Summicron.

 

Mark:)

 

 

ps: purple fringing at strong contrast interfaces occurs with all high quality fast lenses on digital (backlit foliage shot wide open is particularly challenging for all fast lenses).

You are up against the laws of physics, not an inferior lens.

Edited by MarkP
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I like shooting against the sun, makes the pictures dreamy and interesting. Playing with extreme light.

When overexposing you get the peoples faces visible.

 

I shoot Leica not because of the lenses but because I like rangefinders.

 

Heiko

 

Except nothing you're posting so far from your Nikon is anything like the first shot, sorry. And that last one you posted is anything but dreamy, really.

 

Look, I totally understand the "dreamy" look you're after.

 

If you want that look as the Japanese do it, and using a rangefinder, sell your 35 FLE and get a CV 35 1.2 and shoot it wide open.

 

If you want that look as Leica does it, and using a rangefinder, sell your 35 FLE, save some more money and get a Noctilux 1.0 and shoot between f1 and f2. It's still sharp, but also unique and lower contrast.

 

But your 35 FLE--high contrast and sharp though it is--is perfectly capable of impressionistic results--that are still sharp. And in good light will reward you in ways a Nikon can't. Like anything, the more you use it the more you'll "get' it...

 

For example, there is no way on earth you could get this shot with a Nikon 35 f2--and this is straight out of the camera (the finished file is in monochrome, and was always meant to be, but I wanted to show the lack of colour aberrations):

 

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Zero CA / Purple fringing / blooming, but enough contrast and flare rejection to see their faces :) Heck, I can't get those results with any Nikon or Canon L wides...let alone that 35 f2 :)

 

If you want more background isolation, I'd suggest a 50mm or 75, btw... most 35s are *sharp*--I'm not sure how Nikon made that f2 :)

Edited by Jamie Roberts
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I am surprised that you did not comment on the horizontal bar across the sun in your "test" picture. This bar appears because you overexposed the sun to the point where the electrons start to wildly move across the sensor.

We rarely see blooming with an M9 and the horizontal bar is indeed a severe case of blooming. As the anti-blooming gates of the sensor should be able to cope with about 10 f-stops of overexposure, the contrast must have been greater than the dynamic range plus 10 f-stops, i.e. it must have been well above 20 f-stops. Don’t try this at home, kids!

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I just have the FLE now for a week, so not so many "dreamy" pictures yet, just from my backyard.

 

Here some more...

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I think Jamie's suggestion about the 1.0/50 Noctilux is also excellent advice. It will give you that look you want without that razor sharpness of the FLE lenses, is also very usable at smaller apertures as a standard 50, albeit a bit heavy, and has glorious bokeh.

 

Your photos contain a lot of backlit foliage which in my experience is a problem with the 1.4/35 ASPH FLE as the bokeh is quite harsh.

 

Again, this is probably not the lens for you...I sense Calarts99 salivating already at the thought of buying your lens:D).

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The 1.0 Noctilux sure would be a nice lens. I tried it once in a shop but found it awful slow to focus.

 

A lot of my pictures are candits, the 35 is in my opinion much easier in these situations.

I combine it with a Nikon 85/1.4, so a 50 wouldn´t be wide enough either.

 

Heiko

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Then as Jamie also suggested perhaps you might consider a Voigtlander 35/1.2 Nokton aspherical that will satisfy most of your needs and has a nice dreamy look all of its own wide open.

 

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Pete.

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Well then, if 35mm it is then I really think you should sell the 1.4/35 Summilux FLE and buy an older 35 Summilux (or perhaps a 2.0 Summicron,) or as suggested above the 1.2/35 Nocton. The 35FLE is not the lens for you.

 

Perhaps you should try before buying again. At least you should have no problems getting most if not all of your money back selling the hard-to-come-by 1.4/35 Summilux FLE.

 

 

 

I assume you are aware of the problems of focus shift with the older fast lenses shot wide open on a digital sensor. One of the main advantages of the FLE was to correct for focus shift which occurred when shooting wide open at closer distances with these fast lenses on digital. If you are moving and shooting fast for candids, maintaining sharp focus at 1.0-1.4 is very hard, nigh-if impossible.

 

If you are mainly shooting wide open you will need to watch for focus shift at these closer distances and learn to compensate for it. Mind you, a bit of defocus enhances that dreamy look. So perhaps an f2 may do the job - cheaper and more compact, and gives that look you're after.

 

Every lens is a compromise!

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Guest malland

Interesting discussion on how the "best lens" is not necessarily the best for all conditions and people. For example, I have always preferred the Summilux-50 pre-ASPH to the latest, ASPH version of the lens, particularly for shooting at f/1.4.

 

—Mitch/Bangkok

Scratching the Surface

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We're discussing about 35mm lenses here. No asph (or aspherical) Summilux has a smoother bokeh than the FLE here IMHO so the best option for the OP could well be the CV 35/1.2 as suggested above. Big lens though.

Edited by lct
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.

Methinks you should sell the lens to CalArts99 and buy an old 35mm Summilux or Summicron.

 

Yes! This is by far the best solution. :)

 

Again, this is probably not the lens for you...I sense Calarts99 salivating already at the thought of buying your lens:D).

 

I'm drooling to the point of needing a bib. I'm here for you, Mr. FrogFish and can resolve your conundrum immediately.

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I though long about it (at least 6 month) and researched quite a bit before purchasing the FLE.

I had the CV 35/1.4, nice lens, but absolutely unusable with any form of sun from behind. Heavy ghosts.

 

I considered the CV 35/1.2. I have the 50/1.1, and I don´t like it because of the size.

The M with a small lens ( I consider the FLE small) is for me an ergonomically perfect tool. That changes in my opinion with a big lens.

 

Of course, every lens is a compromise. The shot of the tree with the sun in the picture was only for test purposes, knowing that this would be the absolute toughest thing my lens would ever have to do.

 

Other than that I think the lens is a very well performer, I like to have no focus shift (I sometimes shoot at 2.8 or so) and I think the bokeh is not that bad.

 

The treat title is a bit provocative, sorry for that.

 

About the other suggestions for 35 lenses (beside the 35/1.2 maybe) aren´t there more problems with blooming than with the FLE? I would like to have a more dreamy look (little bit of glowing and so) but if the blooming gets worse, or you have heavy ghosts against the sun then it would be a less wise trade.

 

Heiko

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