flash SF24 during the day

[cirke]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Do you know how to use the flash SF24 during the day ? in full sun ?

 

thank you

[Dannybuoy]

Nope, but with most challenging scenes a bit of trial and error will give you answers :-)

[lars_bergquist]

In order to prevent the shutter from overstepping the 1/180 speed limit, you have to lower the effective ISO. If 'pull ISO' 80 does not do the trick, you will have to use a ND filter. Sometimes in fact a polariser just lets you scrape by.

 

The old man from the Kodachrome Age

[cirke]

In order to prevent the shutter from overstepping the 1/180 speed limit, you have to lower the effective ISO. If 'pull ISO' 80 does not do the trick, you will have to use a ND filter. Sometimes in fact a polariser just lets you scrape by.

 

thank you

[darylgo]

Assuming portrait/people are subject and you want to fill shadows:

 

Set camera to Auto shutter, set flash to ttl, set flash to -1 2/3 stops exp. compensation. For each individual shot set aperture so shutter speed is 1/180s or slower. If more fill is desired move the flash exp compensation toward zero and vice versa.

 

Using Auto on the flash rather than ttl: -2 stop exp. compensation on flash, set aperture for shutter speed of 1/180s or less.

[cirke]

thanks a lot darylgo I shall try it

[lars_bergquist]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

I find that advice strange. The flash/camera combo on TTL ('GNC') will mix ambient and flash light to your taste. Just specify a minus compensation on the flash. The classical fill flash value of –1 and 2/3 of an f-stop will usually work fine, as long as you keep the shutter speed at 1/180 or lower (with a ND filter if necessary).

 

Why mess things up when they can be simple?

 

The old man from the Age of Flashpowder

[jaapv]

That is exactly the way I use it, Lars - the only problem is indeed keeping under 1/180th. The exposure compensation on the flash depends on the subject. Sometimes one wants substantial fill ( dark room with bright windows) which requires little, if any, compensation, sometimes, in a back portrait you may want to keep the contrejour effect and just add a sparkle to the eye. Then maybe even -3 will do.

[lars_bergquist]

Yes Jaap – I just wanted to give the OP a point of entry, so to speak. In practice, we have to learn by doing, which is fortunately easier now than in the Kodachrome Age!

 

The old man from That Age

[darylgo]

Indeed, flash can get rather complex quickly in these circumstances. Leica ttl is not as convenient nor as adept as Canikon, the Auto method is one that has been around for ages, once learned we can always revert to it when ttl results are not as desired.

[jaapv]

The variations in compensation level are exactly the same for Canikon as they are for Leica - even on a DSLR you will have to switch on your brain in fillflash situations.

[bpalme]

Every scene will have a little different lighting. I found pointing the camera at a darker or lighter spot (if necessary) to lock in exposure works. But I was in a spot where the lighting was changing a lot.

[lars_bergquist]

Every scene will have a little different lighting. I found pointing the camera at a darker or lighter spot (if necessary) to lock in exposure works. But I was in a spot where the lighting was changing a lot.

 

This however locks only the ambient exposure, not the one for flash. Remember that you are dealing with two kinds of light and hence with two different exposures.

 

The old man from the Age of Flashpowder