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threeputt

Old shutter speed vs current shutter speeds - M3

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I shoot an EARLY M3 with a LeicaMeter MR-4. Normally, anyway. Lately my LeicaMeter has been acting like it's on drugs, so it's on it's way back to Gus Lazzari for a sick call. In the mean time, I've been metering with a Gossen Digisix from my pocket. The problem is that my M3, being early, has the old shutter speeds (1-2-5-10 etc) and I don't think there is a light meter currently being made that can be used with these without some brain acrobatics. It's really been slowing me down trying to approximate the readings for use on my M3. With B&W it's no big deal, but I love shooting Velvia 50 as well, and I don't think I'm being spot on with my application of readings to the camera. With a LeicaMeter it's no problem, but I foresee the day when I might not have one to use. Is it possible to convert my camera to the contemporary speeds? Sourcing the dial wouldn't be a problem, but calibrating the camera itself - can it be done?

 

As a side question, if anyone knows of a current light meter upon which one can throw a switch back and forth to either speed standard, I'd love to know about it!

 

V/R,

 

jeff

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Your M3 shutter is most probably not 100% accurate anyway. My advice is to shoot a roll of Velvia, metering how you usually do, and just use the nearest speed each time. See how the results look.

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Thanks James. It is quite accurate as it was recently CLA'd by Gus (fine work indeed), along with the meter (and calibrated with my one and only M lens). It's just that with the cost of sending Velvia out for processing, I've been hesitant to possibly "waste" the money just to see. I guess I will have to do just that in order to eliminate doubt. It really is a cherry M3, albeit an old one. Looks to have been mostly unused these past 57 years...

 

 

 

Jeff

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Even CLA'd your shutter speeds won't be spot on, there's always some variance with a mechanical shutter, but they should be running within an acceptable margin.

 

Slide film is generally best slightly underexposed. I think you do need to 'waste' a roll. Try standard ISO and nearest speed for half, and then set the ISO on your meter 1/3 stop faster and shoot the second half.

 

It's a lot cheaper than having a new shutter fitted, and you want to keep that M3 original.

 

I have a lllf and using that with the old f stop range lenses gets doubly confusing. Kodachrome shot at nearest settings always came out fine though.

Edited by earleygallery

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All you need do is remember that the "odd" shutter speeds in the old sequence are one third of a stop - one click on the Digisix dial - away from the nearest speed in the modern sequence.

 

1 => 1

2 => '2

5 => one click to the right of '4

10 => one click to the right of '8

25 => one click to the left of '30

...

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My M3 is one of the last so its no 'problem', but I use a Weston Master IV, which has all the intermediate speeds marked, handy for the III, which has 20,30,40 etc. And the 50/3.5 has German f stops, 3.5/4.5,6.3 etc

Its all good mental excercise, possibly some of the digital readout meters might be able to read in the old sequence.

 

Gerry

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even with slide film, i had never worried about this. I always was using the shutter time next to te indications of the light meter. You should not forget that the tolerances of film speed shutter time and light meter are 1/2 EV each.

Therefore differences of 1/3 EV are very theoretical.

yours sincerely

Thomas

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I shot a roll of Kodak BW400CN this weekend, using my Gossen Digisix. Mixed results, some correctly exposed, a few under and a few over. Trying to get them close is giving me fits. I sure hope Gus can get my LeicaMeter back in working order, that is so much easier! In the meantime, I just need more practice with approximating my Digisix readings. The ones that came out correct were when I used a sort of "shutter priority" mentality. A few of the readings coincide with my M3: 125, 250, 500, 1000. It is a bit limiting, but it works when I try to stick to those speeds. Thanks to all for your help!

 

Jeff

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