M2 & M3 Comprehensive differences

[ChiILX1]

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I don't think there is a single post or link with a comprehensive list of differences between these cameras anywhere on the internet, with listed significances, despite so many people asking. Additionally, each thread that attempts to address the differences starts out with "there aren't many differences" but end up having a LOT of differences by the time you get to the end of the thread. Often too, the differences people list aren't explained for someone who may be unfamiliar. So I'll give it a shot just to have everything listed in one list for someone searching. I'll list only differences here and follow with their significance.

 

This list could be useful to someone looking to buy or for someone who wants to be able to tell the difference.

 

I'm sure I missed something- don't crucify me please.

 

The format is:

 

Feature

M2] | [M3

1) Significance

2) Significance (etc.)

 

-------------------------------------

 

Viewfinder Magnification:

M2] .72x | .91x [M3

 

1) .72x allows space for 35/50/90mm frame lines to fit in the viewfinder, while .91x allows for 50/90/135. Depending on the lenses you want to use now or in the future this is important (goggles can be purchased to use 35mm lenses on the M3 making the magnification .64x, but they are expensive. There is also a 2.8 135mm lens which comes with goggles making the magnification 1.36x)

 

2) .91x allows for more accurate focusing since the image being overlaid is a closer magnification of your subject

 

3) .91x allows for shooting comfortably with both eyes open since it's almost a life size image (note: Leica's 1.4x viewfinder magnifier makes the .72x viewfinder essentially a perfect life-size image, but adds a little bulk to the back of the camera, plus it's over $320)

 

4) If you wear glasses you want everything as big as possible since your eye will be further back. However, I comfortably shoot with an M2 with glasses on that sit close to my eyes, while my other pair of glasses that sit farther don't shoot so well, so glasses are a variable too. Even with my close glasses, the corners of the 50mm frame lines are cut out on the M2, and I can barely see any part of the 35mm lines. The M3 50mm lines are similar to the M2's 35mm lines in this regard.

 

Rangefinder Patches:

M2] Smaller with DOF notches always | Larger with DOF notches rarely [M3

 

1) Because of the increased magnification, the rangefinder patch is a bit larger on the M3 when compared to the M2. This gives the user a larger area to focus inside of, facilitating accuracy. Again, viewfinder magnifiers can be added to the M2 to achieve this.

 

2) All M2's I am aware of (and if not all, nearly all) have small teeth or notches above and below the rangefinder patch. Think of a group shot- the idea is that if you focus on the person in the center of the front row, you also want the person on the right or left end of the second row to be in focus too. If the double images of their face fits within the bottom tooth of the rangefinder patch without refocusing, then they will also be in focus at F/5.6. The top tooth is the same but for f/16. You then adjust your aperture and shutter speed accordingly. This is harder to find on an M3 and apparently was only included in the later models. No other Leica has this feature.

 

Framelines:

M2] Only one frame at a time, each line on a side without corners (not touching) | Thicker 50mm frame lines always showing with rounded corners (four lines separated in the middle of each side of the finder) with 90 or 135 lines appearing simultaneously within them if that respective lens is mounted- these are modeled as four lines without corners to bring them together (like the M2's) [M3

 

1) The lines of the 50mm on the M3 are much better to frame with using a 50mm lens because they are thick and show corners. The M2 leaves you matching the lines together with your imagination to calculate a corner

 

2) The M2's viewfinder is more uncluttered- only one frame line appears which is appropriate for the mounted lens. By contrast, the M3 always shows the 50mm lines so you have two frames, so you just have to remember not to use the 50mm lines to frame if there are lines within them.

 

Front Face:

M2] Versions include with and without frame line preview lever, with and without self timer, with button rewind or lever rewind- and all combinations therein | Versions include with and without frame line preview lever but all models are with a self timer and a lever rewind [M3

 

1) If you don't want a self-timer under your right fingers, you have to find an M2 without it

 

2) If you want a self-timer you can find it on either camera

 

3) If you prefer the look of button rewind you need to find it on an M2 (some report that button rewind can stick and/or fall out)

 

4) If you want or don't want a preview lever you can find that on either one

 

Frame Counter:

M2] This is a manual frame counter you must reset with each new roll | This is an automatic counter that resets itself [M3

 

1) If buying an M3 making sure the glass of the counter is clear is another element you'll need to check.

 

2) On an M2, sometimes you forget to reset the film counter and you are left guessing that you are off by 2-4 frames from what it says on the camera.

 

3) If ever disassembled by an amateur, the M2 counter could have been replaced on the wrong side of a washer and stick for a bit on each roll

 

Shutter Speed Dial:

M2] Matte silver metal only, Scientific Speeds of B, 1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30, 1/50 (flash), 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500, 1/1000 | Shiny silver metal only, later M3's also have the M2 speed arrangement but early M3's may come in Geometric Speeds of B, 1, 1/2, 1/5, 1/10, 1/25, 1/50, 1/100, 1/250, 1/500, 1/1000 [M3

 

1) If you have some particular need to shoot at certain shutter speeds, this could be an issue. I always was told "if your shutter speed is less than your focal length you need a tripod," but I'm not sure if that was meant for SLR's with mirror shake and if a soft release affects that.

 

Advance Lever:

M2] Only comes in single stroke | Comes in single and double stroke [M3

 

1) If speed is your thing you'll want only one advance to be on the next frame

 

2) Many report that the double stroke is smoother, quieter, and a neat unique feature to the Leica M3

 

3) Single stroke can be used like a double stroke

 

Lens Release Button:

M2] The M2 does not have a metal protective lip around this button to prevent "accidental" depression | The M3 does [M3

 

1) This is not so significant- the button on the M2 isn't "easy" to accidentally press due to built-in mechanical resistance and its location

 

Frameline Window:

M2] Fresnel-type plastic lens (vertically-lined window looks like vertical blinds) | Ground glass foggy window (looks like someone's taking a hot shower inside- AKA no lines) [M3

 

1) Some people swear by each individually as better. Both work.

 

2) The M2's is cheaper to replace

 

All Windows:

M2] No embossed beveling around the windows | embossed beveling around the windows [M3

 

1) Gives M3 a more gothic appearance and the M2 a more sleek, simplified look

 

2) I don't notice any, but some people suggest the beveling dims the finders and lines a bit. Really doubtful.

 

3) Beveling acts as a mini lens hood for your windows, preventing flare.

 

Available finishes:

M2] Chrome or Black (Black is crazy rare and expensive) | Chrome unless painted by someone [M3

 

1) If you want all black you have to go M2

 

Loading:

M2] Same, but rare M2-R's have the quicker load system found in M4s | Same as normal M2's [M3

 

1) You can purchase the quick load kit for either, if you desire it, and if you can find one.

 

Film Pressure Plate:

M2] Metal only | Glass in early models, Metal later [M3

 

1) Some report problems with the glass pressure plate and have to replace it with a metal one when it goes bad. If buying an M3 you would want to check this.

 

Other Really Insignificant Variables:

Film speed format indicator on rear door, strap lug type, and the asthetic look of the top of the film rewind knob.

 

Some of these are illustrated on Ken Rockwell's page about the M3: LEICA M3 (1954-1967)

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[ChiILX1]

I forgot to mention that if you have glasses and shoot 50mm a lot, you want the M2 not the M3 because you won't be able to see the framelines in the M3. On the M2 you wont be able to see the 35's. That's my two cents.

[Michael Hiles]

Pretty comprehensive as far as I can tell.

 

I use my M2 more than my M3 - the one niggle as I get older, is that resetting the fame counter on my M2 now requires my glasses. When I travel, I take my M2 with a 35, 50, and 90. Light and convenient. But with a 50, the M3's viewfinder is unequalled, in my view.

[gyoung]

Ref comments above about glasses, depends on the glasses and certainly I bought m3 originally because I could see the 50 frame with my glasses, but not the 35 frame on the m2.

 

Gerry

[giordano]

The difference between the M3 and M2 range-viewfinders is far deeper than the list suggests. The optical and mechanical layout of the two is strikingly different: see e.g. rangefinder issues.

 

Also, there were various changes to the M3 shutter over the years to increase reliability. All M2s benefitted from the early years of Leitz's experience with the M3.