Keith (M) Posted November 2, 2011 Share #1 Posted November 2, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) I put a roll of Kentmere 100 through my newly-acquired M4 (a companion to my M7) and developed it this morning. Lifting the spiral out of the tank, I was amazed to find a complete lack of images - the whole film is clear. Before loading this first film into the camera, I of course checked the shutter curtain and time operations (as best one can) by holding open the camera back and clicking the button. The curtain moved, I could glimpse the lens and the timings at various shutter-speed settings seemed to be in the right ball-park. This is where my logic fails me - does a completely clear negative (developed, stopped and fixed in my usually successful process) mean the film has been completely over-exposed or has not been exposed at all? I should add that the lens-cap was most definitely not on the lens. Also, the film-rewind knob rotated as the film was wound on and when re-winding this morning, holding the body to my ear could hear the film (as well as feel it). At the risk of appearing to be a complete dumbo, it would be good to have some pointers as to the likely cause before I load another film and repeat the process! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted November 2, 2011 Posted November 2, 2011 Hi Keith (M), Take a look here Clear Negs: Camera or Dev Problem?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
stunsworth Posted November 2, 2011 Share #2 Posted November 2, 2011 Are the frame numbers missing from the roll? If so you probably put fixer in the tank before developer or the developer was exhausted. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewittehd Posted November 2, 2011 Share #3 Posted November 2, 2011 I put a roll of Kentmere 100 through my newly-acquired M4 (a companion to my M7) and developed it this morning. Lifting the spiral out of the tank, I was amazed to find a complete lack of images - the whole film is clear. Before loading this first film into the camera, I of course checked the shutter curtain and time operations (as best one can) by holding open the camera back and clicking the button. The curtain moved, I could glimpse the lens and the timings at various shutter-speed settings seemed to be in the right ball-park. This is where my logic fails me - does a completely clear negative (developed, stopped and fixed in my usually successful process) mean the film has been completely over-exposed or has not been exposed at all? I should add that the lens-cap was most definitely not on the lens. Also, the film-rewind knob rotated as the film was wound on and when re-winding this morning, holding the body to my ear could hear the film (as well as feel it). At the risk of appearing to be a complete dumbo, it would be good to have some pointers as to the likely cause before I load another film and repeat the process! old developer, wrong developer, low concentration or no developer come to my mind. Why don't you cut a piece of film and develop it in full light in a small amount of your chemicals. This should absolutely turn it black and take one variable away. Good luck, Jean Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith (M) Posted November 2, 2011 Author Share #4 Posted November 2, 2011 Are the frame numbers missing from the roll? If so you probably put fixer in the tank before developer or the developer was exhausted. No frame numbers (or anything else for that matter). I used the last 20mL from a 500mL bottle of Ilfosol 3 that I opened in February. It did, I admit, look very oxidised but I went ahead thing it would be OK (1+14 for 7mins 30secs). Ah well, looks like yet another lesson learned! Will now go and load another film for a repeat test. Luckily there is an unopened bottle of Ilfosol 3 in the cupboard... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewittehd Posted November 2, 2011 Share #5 Posted November 2, 2011 No frame numbers (or anything else for that matter). I used the last 20mL from a 500mL bottle of Ilfosol 3 that I opened in February. It did, I admit, look very oxidised but I went ahead thing it would be OK (1+14 for 7mins 30secs). Ah well, looks like yet another lesson learned! Will now go and load another film for a repeat test. Luckily there is an unopened bottle of Ilfosol 3 in the cupboard... The label says the shelf life is 4 months once opened (1/2 full bottle). Take care, Jean Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Henry Posted November 2, 2011 Share #6 Posted November 2, 2011 Keith, I also use the Ilfosol 3 (a new bottle) and I just developed yesterday a Fuji Acros 100 and it works See second to last photo here : http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/landscape-travel/207175-autumn-color.html I think it comes from the developer. I missed the development of my latest film because of the developer, a (rest) developer is oxidized ! Best Henry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanG Posted November 2, 2011 Share #7 Posted November 2, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Before processing a roll of film, you can clip off a bit of the leader and place it in the developer and see if it turns dark. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
too old to care Posted November 2, 2011 Share #8 Posted November 2, 2011 I just developed a roll using Ilfosol 3 that I opened about 6 months ago. I got tired of D76 going bad before I used it up. It was starting to turn brown, but I still had images. I think they are somewhat light though. I guess when they say 4 months, they mean it. I am going to try some Rodinal next that I have on order. Hopefully that stuff will last for ever. Wayne Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted November 2, 2011 Share #9 Posted November 2, 2011 Even old knackered developer will do something. So you put the fix in first. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanG Posted November 3, 2011 Share #10 Posted November 3, 2011 Even old knackered developer will do something. So you put the fix in first. Steve That sounds reasonable although the way I worked I can't see making that mistake. If you have a sensitive scale, you can measure out the amount of powdered developer you need and just mix that amount. (Giving it enough time to dissolve thoroughly of course.) I always used D76 1:1 for single shot processing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith (M) Posted November 3, 2011 Author Share #11 Posted November 3, 2011 Even old knackered developer will do something. So you put the fix in first. Steve Absolutely not! The bottle of Ilfosol 3 was opened in February and was almost empty when I left the country at the end of August. Returning late last month and wanting to develop a test film put through my newly arrived M4, I found that there was just enough in the bottle and despite being dark brown, I used it (foolishly, in retrospect and completely forgetting Ilford's statement re a life of four months from opening). This morning I went through exactly the same sequence, except for using Ilfosol 3 from a fresh bottle. Pulling the film off the spiral ten minutes ago, I have the expected images. Once dry I'll check the results against my notes on shutter speed etc to check that the M4's speeds are accurate. As written in an earlier post - "lesson learnt"! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrism Posted November 3, 2011 Share #12 Posted November 3, 2011 Are you sure the film wound on when it was in the camera? Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted November 3, 2011 Share #13 Posted November 3, 2011 Are you sure the film wound on when it was in the camera? If that had happened the frame numbers would still be visible even though the frames themselves would be blank. The developer had oxidised, that's the cause of the problem. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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