Self Coding

[sprice]

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I've seen a couple of threads about self-coding of lenses. Is there a "how-to" manual out there?

[Shootist]

I've seen a couple of threads about self-coding of lenses. Is there a "how-to" manual out there?

There is no manual persay. If you do a search for forum member carstenw (I think that's his forum name) there is a link in his signature to a webpage that has a reference to the coding and a link on that pape for a template. But the template is off.

What I have done is marked the side of a lens that does have coding then taken a rear leens cap and marked the cap as to where the coding marks are and the lens mount reccess. I then place that rear lens cap on my uncoded lenses and follow the pictures in the link for which spots get blackened. mark the side of the uncoded lens then take the cap off and transfer the marks to the mount base.

For me it has only worked on one lens, the tele-elmarit 90mm f/2.8. I tried it on my 50mm f/2 and it doesn't work (I tried both code placements as they are different (or so it seems) from a version 2-3 and 4-5). I also tried it on a 135 tele-Elmarit f/2.8 with bug eyes using the code for a 135 f/2.8 without eye. but that didn't work either. I really don't think the camera knows I have version 1-2-3-4-5 of the 50 or that I have attached a 135 with eye and am using a code for one without eye. I think the hand coding it a hit or miss deal. On both of the lenses that didn't work there is a screw right where a whit mark should be so that may be why they don't work. I'mm going to try some white out in those spots tonight and see if the camera will detect them properly.

Other then that I am going to have my 50 and 90 coded by Leica as soon as I get the vouchers for the one lens I just bought.

[Artichoke]

for my 75 lux

no luck, but I was not all that careful with the effort ...for a telephoto, I don't know that coding makes all that much of a difference anyway

the codes that were posted here may not be all that accurate ...I have a coded 21 Elmarit & the code given in the chart is different from that on my lens

[Shootist]

for my 75 lux

no luck, but I was not all that careful with the effort ...for a telephoto, I don't know that coding makes all that much of a difference anyway

the codes that were posted here may not be all that accurate ...I have a coded 21 Elmarit & the code given in the chart is different from that on my lens

Yeah I suspect that also.

I'll know when I finally do sent the 50 in for the code upgrade. I believe my 50 is a version 3 and when I call Leica USA back in October to check on IF my 50 and 90 could be coded they said yes. They also said the 135 with eyes couldn't be. I think because the eye mount is part of the lens to camera mount.

[steve_l]

Arthur-

What is the code on your elmarit? I need to hand code mine for now and want to be sure to get the right code. Is it an ASPH? Mine is.. (might be different code?)

[Guest WPalank]

I know nothing about coding lenses or the engineering science that goes along with it, but here is my experience with sending four of my lenses to Leica NJ for coding.

 

My 28/2 cron and 35/1.4 (both about two years old) were returned to me fairly quickly. When I called to ask about the status of my 21/2.8 Elmarit, they told me they were replacing the bayonets. With my 50/1.4 Lux they stated it was sent to another department for milling. Now since I had sent all lenses in for the cleaning and certification, I naively thought the "milling" had to do with the lenses. After calling NJ they stated that on this lens the bayonets needed to be milled to work properly with the coding.

Now I don't know what all this means but my two cents says that to get the full benefit of the coding, additional work is being done to the hardware as well.

[the 50 is on it's way and the 21 is still waiting for the bayonet after 6 or 7 weeks.]

[marknorton]

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I think it's down to whether the lens is in current production in which case they will simply swap the bayonet ring to the part used in new production. For older lenses, there is no new production so they may be milling the code onto the existing bayonet ring which will increase the time it takes.

 

For some lenses, such as the pre-ASPH 35/2, there's a screw hole where the code goes, so this lens will get a new bayonet ring with the screw hole missing.

 

For self-coding, there's a list of the codes in a link at the bottom of Carsten's posts; Most users of codeable lenses - especially wide angles - may well want to get their lenses coded if they plan to use IR filters.

[Guest WPalank]

Mark,

The lens I hold in my hand, as it just arrived moments ago, is a 50mm Summilux-M 1:1.4 ASPH and as I stated, bought 2-3 years ago. Here is the link at B&H:

Leica 50mm f/1.4 Summilux M Aspherical Manual Focus Lens (6-Bit)

 

So it IS a lens that is in current production. This is the lens that took longer by almost 3 weeks to get back to me and I was told by the staff in repair at Leica NJ that it needed to be milled. Is there another definition that I'm missing for "current production"?

[barjohn]

Here is my method:

 

I used the black fine point Sharpie brand. It worked on both lens I tried. Here is the trick I used (I tried template first but it wasn't working very well for me).

 

1. On the camera, with the lens removed create a fine line mark where each sensor is located on the rim of the flange.

2. Put the lens on and lock it.

3. Mark corresponding marks on the lens for the bit positions that the particluar lens calls for in line with the marks on the camera flange.

4. Remove the lens and now create the code marks about the width of the sensors where you marked on the lens flange edge.

5. Use a small amount of nail poslish remover to revoce the marks from the camera and the lens flange edge (the latter only if it bothers you because it saves you doing this again when you need to remark as it wears off).

Be careful and don't get gobs of acetone everywhere. It only takes a little bit on the tip of a cuetip to remove it. You don't want any in your lens or camera body.

 

Put on the lens and snap a frame. Review the picture and press info. You should see the lens focal length just below the right top part of the frame count.

 

Good luck and have fun.

 

P.S. Others that have now tried this method confirm that it works for them too.

[marknorton]

Mark,

The lens I hold in my hand, as it just arrived moments ago, is a 50mm Summilux-M 1:1.4 ASPH and as I stated, bought 2-3 years ago. Here is the link at B&H:

Leica 50mm f/1.4 Summilux M Aspherical Manual Focus Lens (6-Bit)

 

So it IS a lens that is in current production. This is the lens that took longer by almost 3 weeks to get back to me and I was told by the staff in repair at Leica NJ that it needed to be milled. Is there another definition that I'm missing for "current production"?

 

Actually, you just said 50/1.4 Lux which could mean a current lens or it could mean a lens 30 years old.

[Guest WPalank]

Sorry Mark, it was brand-spankin' new. I thought you knew that!

[carstenw]

Just adding my sig to the thread, in case it is helpful. Keep in mind that the template is apparently slightly off in one direction. I am still looking for someone who can fix it and re-send it to me.

[Artichoke]

...I have a coded 21 Elmarit & the code given in the chart is different from that on my lens

the code is accurate

I looked at the code for the non-ASPH Elmarit

the code for the ASPH 21 mm Emarit f2.8 (which is the one I have) is accurate

many sorries for any concerns I caused