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SteveLaverty

Which lens? 35mm or 40mm

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Hi all

 

I just got an M8 and I'm not amazing with technical stuff so was hoping you would be able to advise. I want to get my first lens.

 

Right, should I get the:

Voigtlander Nokton 40mm 1.4 (Voigtlander 40mm f1.4 VM Nokton lens - alternative standard VM bayonet | Robert White Photographic Ltd)

Or

Voigtlander Nokton 35mm 1.4 (Voigtlander 35mm f1.4 VM Nokton Classic | Robert White Photographic Ltd)

 

I'm a little confused about framelines, does the 35mm fit to the inner or outer lines on this example? - M8 Framelines from the M8 instruction manual | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Where would the 40mm fit, inside the inner lines but with no real guide?

 

How big a difference will there be in terms of how zoomed in the lens is (I don't know the right terminology, but understand)

 

I understand the crop factor is 1.33? I am used to using a digilux 3 with 30mm sigma 1.4, on which I think the crop factor is 2.

 

Any other opinions I would be interested to hear.

I care about size, weight, ease of use and of course quality of picture.

 

Cheers

Steve.

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Hi Steve,

 

Well the 35mm is indicated by the inner set of frame lines.

 

I have the 40mm Voigtlander 1.4 and to be honest the difference between 35mm and 40mm field of view is really not that much at all.

 

I purchased the 40mm due to the fact I saw a copy of the lens dirt cheap. If I had a choice I would have gone with the 35mm version as the camera brings up 35mm frame lines. The 40mm brings up the 50mm frame lines and you basically have to use guess work to frame the shot, which after a while becomes second nature.

 

I would go for the 35mm version if I were you

 

Jei

Edited by Megadust

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Any other opinions I would be interested to hear.

I care about size, weight, ease of use and of course quality of picture.

 

 

I'd like to suggest you a Leica lux (Summilux) 35mm Asph or non-Asph if this is going to be your-one-lens-for-life on M8.

I saw many people started with Voigtlander or Zeiss (both have great reviews and very tempting price tag) and soon wanted Leica glass, so I skipped first step and bought Leica lens.

 

Here is some useful reviews and images (they're mainly on M9 FF though) of 35mm lux f/1.4.

 

35 mm Summilux ASPH: Which one should you have in your kit, version I OR version II? By Ashwin Rao

 

A Leica 35 Summilux Classic Lens Review

 

Leica 35mm Summilux-M ASPH f/1.4 and

Leica 35mm Summilux-M f/1.4 (non-ASPH) By: Thorsten Overgaard

 

--

Regards,

Joe

Edited by framestor

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...I'm a little confused about framelines, does the 35mm fit to the inner or outer lines on this example? - M8 Framelines from the M8 instruction manual | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Where would the 40mm fit, inside the inner lines but with no real guide?

 

 

The system of framelines for the M8 is indeed confusing.

 

The original M8 had framelines calibrated for nearest distance, i.e. 0.7m. On bigger distances the framelines are smaller than the actual photo.

 

As many complained about this the framelines were changed with the M8.2 (and as an upgrade for the M8) with calibration for 2m. So you still have more on the photo with bigger distances, but less so than with the "old" M8.

 

For 40mm that means: your photo will show less than the inner lines of the frame; somewhere between the frames for 35 and for 50mm (you can check with the lever for frame selection). If you use an original M8 with no upgrade, the framelines will be nearer to the angle of view on your photos, with upgraded framelines or the M8.2 the difference will be bigger.

 

The easier answer is: forget about 40mm and take 35mm.

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You cannot really go wrong with either lens. Either will serve you quite well. The M8 provides you with a fun challenge called 'guess what will be in frame'

You will get used to framing accurately with either lens with practice.

 

Personally I like the 35 and the loose-normal field of view on the M8 and how it translates to a film Leica.

 

I would take the advice that you ought to purchase a $2,500+ lens with a grain of salt. If you are looking at Voigtlander glass, value likely matters to you.

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The 28mm Elmarit ASPH is a great lens too. Not super fast but a good price and solid performer. It also comes out as a 35mm on the M8 with added crop factor.

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I have the Nokton 40 which is amazing.

The frameline is not an issue, because, really, after some use you get acquainted with the correct frame and composition is not a problem.

If you need to have on the viewfinder the exact frame...the rangefinder system is not for you.

 

So my advice is: don't choose the 35 because composition is difficult with 40...

 

Just my 2 cents

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35mm on M8.2 and 40mm with 35mm frame lines on M8. You will hardly get more accurate framing with other combos.

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A very fine alternative is the 40mm Leica Summicron f2. It is an amazing lens & can be purchased for between $300 - $400. An almost identical design as the 50 Cron. Amazing bokeh, a very small size, light & compact. I own both the 40 Summicron & 40 Rokkor. Identical lenses, with the Rokkor having the advantage of advanced coatings. Either of these lens blow away any Nokton, of any focal length and are less expensive.

 

The 40 Summicron/Rokkor effectively becomes a 50 mm lens on an M8. Check out the work of Virgil DiBiasi (user vdb) on this forum. His work is among the best of the forum members & his frames with the 40 are simply amazing. Don't be fooled into thinking you need to empty your bank account to use the best tools. Enjoy your new kit & post often. Ben

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The lens's serial number is, 2392839. According to kenrockwell's info page, manufactured in 1970, Version II pre-Asph - Full Reviews at KenRockwell.com

 

"...The biggest defect of this little lens is trying to use filters with it. No version of this classic takes normal filters, while the current LEICA SUMMILUX 35mm f/1.4 ASPH takes normal 46mm filters."

 

 

The used price would be $1,550~$2,150 depends on conditions (sourced from antiquecameras.net)

 

Many people advised me to buy old glass from a retailer with at least of 6 months of warranty. last week, I spare all my free time to searching one through UK dealer's, but so far, I could not find one in decent condition, in this case 50mm lux type 2 or 3.

 

So good luck!

Edited by framestor

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I have both 35 and 40. Both works brilliant on m8. Not hugh difference. Its more personal preference than real technical or performance issue honestly.

 

For cv40, those who don't mind little DIY filing work, you can easily shave slightly from the mount and will bring up 35-frameline on m8. Of course, no turning back. But it works perfectly and 35 line is very usable for 40 view. It's an easy DIY with right tools, just do it carefully and don't mess the glass.

 

Afterall, cv is fun to use with reasonable cost.

 

Cheers

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Oh btw, although 35 always sounds magic number and feel logical, I personally find 40 on M8 resemble better 50-standard view than 35 in practice.

 

But perhaps just me.

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A very fine alternative is the 40mm Leica Summicron f2. It is an amazing lens & can be purchased for between $300 - $400. An almost identical design as the 50 Cron. Amazing bokeh, a very small size, light & compact. I own both the 40 Summicron & 40 Rokkor. Identical lenses, with the Rokkor having the advantage of advanced coatings. Either of these lens blow away any Nokton, of any focal length and are less expensive.

 

The 40 Summicron/Rokkor effectively becomes a 50 mm lens on an M8. Check out the work of Virgil DiBiasi (user vdb) on this forum. His work is among the best of the forum members & his frames with the 40 are simply amazing. Don't be fooled into thinking you need to empty your bank account to use the best tools. Enjoy your new kit & post often. Ben

Same idea , posted the same minute...

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35mm on M8.2 and 40mm with 35mm frame lines on M8. You will hardly get more accurate framing with other combos.

The 40mm triggers the 50mm frame lines though.

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Yes, but an easy do-it-yourself modification solves the issue.

 

+1

Since you have a M8 and not a M8.2 or M8u, Steve.

Ulli's to the point as far as frames are concerned.

 

Voigtländer brought out their 40mm also because of this, but really: forget both lenses you initially mentioned, compared to the Summicron/Rokkor, that you test on your digital camera and laptop before buying

Please look for smooth functions of the distance and aperture rings, too and make sure all glass surfaces still are as they should be.

 

If you think this is the thing for you, please ask here about recoding and you'll get links or the answer directly.

 

Have fun!

 

PS. lct is right: better not file next to glass surfaces if you never did it before.

Edited by tri
PS

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