Washington Posted June 11, 2011 Share #21 Posted June 11, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Village Idiot, The II & IIa work on the M2,3 and 4. Admitted, the prices have gone up but I still see some Viso III prisms on eBay that are ‘’reasonable’’. I saw a Viso III arm the other day for $30….good deal! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 11, 2011 Posted June 11, 2011 Hi Washington, Take a look here Finally got a Visoflex for my M9; now, what...?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
elgenper Posted June 11, 2011 Author Share #22 Posted June 11, 2011 Per, Don’t worry any over adjustments and shims…. of the five Visos I have have Viso II,IIa,&III three all were fine. Glad to hear that, indeed! While I think I could do it if necessary, following the instructions posted here, I much prefer to spend that time and effort on shooting instead.... I only got into the shims when trying new‘’ground-glass’ in the body: a total waste of time as the real glass original is just fine! On that issue, I just couldn´t agree more! Whatever people say about new bright screens, there is, and always will be, a tradeoff between brightness and ease of focus - and the Viso screen is already right on my personal sweet spot in this respect. And, for closeup or for real long, slowish lenses, nothing beats a plain screen without any split image or microprism fields smack in the middle. So the original screen stays right where it is! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Washington Posted June 11, 2011 Share #23 Posted June 11, 2011 Yeah, and split focus spots black-out with long lenses. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anguish Posted June 12, 2011 Share #24 Posted June 12, 2011 "In order to be able to focus to infinity, all you need is the M9, Visoflex III, Universal Focus Mount OTZFO = 16464 K, and the TE 135/4 lens head." What's the difference between the TE 135/4 lens and the TE 135/4 lens head? Do you have to take the lens apart to use it with the 16464/Viso III? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
k-hawinkler Posted June 12, 2011 Share #25 Posted June 12, 2011 "In order to be able to focus to infinity, all you need is the M9, Visoflex III, Universal Focus Mount OTZFO = 16464 K, and the TE 135/4 lens head." What's the difference between the TE 135/4 lens and the TE 135/4 lens head? Do you have to take the lens apart to use it with the 16464/Viso III? Excellent question! Some of the older lenses, both M-bayonet and Telyts were designed in such a way that the lens head can be simply unscrewed. That way the lens heads can be attached to a shorter focusing mount or a Bellows II ( for macros) and used with the mirror box, called Visoflex I, II, or III. These lens heads or complete Telyts as well can then also be used on DSLR cameras, such as Canons, Nikons, etc. with an appropriate adapter of course. Available focal lengths cover 65, 90, 125, 135, 200, 280, 400, 560, and I believe 800 mm. Used in this fashion the lenses focus all the way to infinity. Best, K-H. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anguish Posted June 12, 2011 Share #26 Posted June 12, 2011 KH, Thanks Presumably, if the TE 135 does not unscrew easily, one shouldn't try harder. In other words, do later models come apart for use on the viso, or is this adaptability a feature that Leica eventually dropped in later model lenses? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
elgenper Posted June 12, 2011 Author Share #27 Posted June 12, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) KH, Thanks Presumably, if the TE 135 does not unscrew easily, one shouldn't try harder. In other words, do later models come apart for use on the viso, or is this adaptability a feature that Leica eventually dropped in later model lenses? Mine (depicted in post #18 in this thread) does indeed come apart. If you look at that image, the division is right behind the knurled aperture ring. Grasp the aperture ring with one hand, and the lens barrel in front of the focussing ring with the other, and turn the front counterclockwise. Some force is indeed needed, but not excessively so. The optical head that you´ll get exposed is far longer than the part you see at the start, but that´s as it should be. There are two sets of threads on it; the front (larger) one is what mounts it in the lens barrel, while the narrower one close to the rear end is the one that mounts to the universal focusing mount that is used on the Visoflex. Don´t know if the newer model with built-in lens hood (Ken Rockwell has images of the two) does come apart; doesn´t look so... BTW, there´s a nice review of this lens on Steve Huff´s site. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anguish Posted June 12, 2011 Share #28 Posted June 12, 2011 Thanks, Per, for advice and links. Helps to know which part to grip and turn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
k-hawinkler Posted June 12, 2011 Share #29 Posted June 12, 2011 AFAIK the newer model with built-in hood cannot be unscrewed. K-H. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Washington Posted June 12, 2011 Share #30 Posted June 12, 2011 I’m in the middle of a too tightly threaded part just now. It’s time for the old hose clamp trick. Wrap the part with a rubber strip and use multiple short hose clamps to surround the rubber. Tighten very well and use big water pump pliers to grip on the raised screw sections of the multiply clamps. WD 40 overnight helps a lot. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
elgenper Posted June 12, 2011 Author Share #31 Posted June 12, 2011 I’m in the middle of a too tightly threaded part just now. It’s time for the old hose clamptrick. Wrap the part with a rubber strip and use multiple short hose clamps to surround the rubber. Tighten very well and use big water pump pliers to grip on the raised screw sections of the multiply clamps. WD 40 overnight helps a lot. While an excellent method for real jams, it sounds a bit drastic for this situation. Remember, you´re working on the aperture ring turned to f/4, where it´s stopped by a rather small pin that takes all the force. And even a liberal amount of WD 40 won´t reach the stuck threads rather far down inside the barrel.. But then, if someone *tightened* it using a similar method.... When adequately tightened so it won´t come loose with everyday handling, the feel and force to unscrew it is about similar to opening the screw lid of a big Coke bottle first time... The value of the contents released, however, is very different.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Washington Posted June 12, 2011 Share #32 Posted June 12, 2011 Per I just removed the ring…. no fuss, no muss, no problem. Do you know how many times I’ve done this? (and, never a problem other that getting the part off) Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/153879-finally-got-a-visoflex-for-my-m9-now-what/?do=findComment&comment=1700212'>More sharing options...
elgenper Posted June 13, 2011 Author Share #33 Posted June 13, 2011 PerI just removed the ring…. no fuss, no muss, no problem. Do you know how many times I’ve done this? (and, never a problem other that getting the part off) Oops... see now my post was a bit unclear (must have applied a liberal amount of whisky last night...). Rip, in no way did I feel any need to ´teach´ or correct you personally about this kind of work; your posts about complicated mechanical projects you´ve succesfully undertaken speak for themselves.... Only, I felt that if some other reader came across this thread and tried to apply the method to a stuck TE lens head, they might benefit from a warning that there are weak points. That was my only reason for writing that post last night. And... it really hurts seeing your Novoflex gear; each time I want to kick my own arrears for selling mine.... only, with my beer barrel belly, it would be quite a long walk around to get into position for that.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Washington Posted June 13, 2011 Share #34 Posted June 13, 2011 Per, Heck no buddy I didn’t take it that way at all. I just was really just providing a photo of the set up to make it clear what I mean. All doubts are helpful because one thinks over the situation and may find a better way or a flaw in my solution. I welcome doubt!! Actually you are quite correct to point out the bottle-cap problem where-by ring compression adds to the tightness…. you also are REALLY right about not using the little limit pins in aperture rings for turning force: you sure will break the pin! I have been successful with this method but there were times where it didn’t unscrew at first try… and times when I had to wait awhile and try alternatives… I am very careful NOT to be a cave-man and try to force it after a certain point. Usually more penetrating oil left for a long time and reapplied to creep into the assembly. On tough ones I sometimes have to use two of these clamps…. one on the male&female part so the torque isn’t taken up by a too delicate part on the assembly. Cheers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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