dwrz Posted June 8, 2011 Share #1 Posted June 8, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) I'm going to try to bring my M6TTL to drill this weekend. We are going to do a combat marksmanship shoot (along with some admin, I've heard "rumors" of a march as well). Should be interesting if I get a chance to take some shots. In the mail is some silica gel and a microfiber cloth, which with a ziploc will keep the camera in my cargo pocket (thanks to the advice on this forum). We're expecting ~75% cloud cover throughout the weekend, temperature range from 60F to 90F (16-32C). 30-40% of rain (praying for my Elmar-M). If we aren't outside we are indoors with fluorescent lighting. Example: (ISO 200, 1/200, 20mm @ f/1.8 -- I'll have the Elmar-M at 50mm f/2.8) What film should I take? I was thinking Tri-X, pushed to 800 or 1600. Any advice on ISO? Maybe color would be good to have, though, and I'm not sure what to take in that case. I was thinking of bringing 3 rolls. I'll probably do my first development tomorrow. How difficult is it to push? Is it worth the "risk", or should I stick with C-41 film and have a lab process it for this time around? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 8, 2011 Posted June 8, 2011 Hi dwrz, Take a look here What film to take? What ISO to shoot?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
BobYIL Posted June 8, 2011 Share #2 Posted June 8, 2011 David, Tri-X is easy to push ISO 800, just one stop over the nominal. Whatever developer you have at hand, just extend the time one-third to be on the safe side. (I hope you did not buy Perceptol, Microdol-X type developer though.. I mean just regular developer, at least the cheapest D-76.) Time to develop your own film, eh? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwrz Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share #3 Posted June 8, 2011 I'll be using Xtol. Is ISO 800 what you would recommend pushing to? I want to get usable shots indoors, but at the same time I would like to keep a large aperture for potential shots down outdoors. Unfortunately I'm a bit spoiled by the digital and the main lens used on it, so I really have no clue how to deal with this on film. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
digbyhp Posted June 8, 2011 Share #4 Posted June 8, 2011 David, I don't have any advice for you sorry, but let me say, first, I think that's a cool shot above, and, secondly, to ask - how are you able/why are you allowed to take photographs during military training ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted June 8, 2011 Share #5 Posted June 8, 2011 Just be sure to try something new without a trial first. Then you can start another thread on how to salvage. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwrz Posted June 8, 2011 Author Share #6 Posted June 8, 2011 If I'm working, the camera goes down, and it's never on my neck with a strap or something of the sort. No different than working a civilian job-- I try to be professional about it and understand it is a privilege offered to me by my superiors. The shot above was taken during my platoon's lunch break. I ate fast, came back to the drill deck, sat down, pulled the camera out, took the shot quickly, then stowed it back into my pocket. The last time I did an advanced combat marksmanship shoot (not beginner or intermediate) was more than a year ago at the School of Infantry/Infantry Training Battalion, so I'm not really sure how this weekend will work, or if they'll have us doing anything else. There's a few wildcards this time around. Generally speaking, though, ranges are a 1+99 dilution (1 excitement, 99 boredom/waiting). For the last range we did, a medium machine gun shoot, we had to cycle the entire battalion's machinegunners (plus our anti-armor platoon) on something like 6 guns. While the others shot we kicked a few classes and did some other exercises, but we were there from about 0800 to 1800, so I managed to take quite a few photographs. In general, that's how I've had to do it. Tobey: How to salvage? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted June 8, 2011 Share #7 Posted June 8, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) . Tobey: How to salvage? Think he means how to salvage an acceptable print in photoshop. Think this is cynical, of him. I'd not push film the gain is illusary, you can try a speed increase dev http://www.darkroom.ru/info/manuals/ilford_powder_developers_manual_eng.pdf but the shadows are not much different. For first time it is best to try XP2 or other mono C41, but that will need photoshop if you underexpose. Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted June 8, 2011 Share #8 Posted June 8, 2011 I would rate Tri-X at 400. But keep in mind you can still vary the development when you get home and with greater hindsight on the matter should you find yourself underexposing to maintain a faster speed. Get home and think if you need a bit more development to pull more out of anything regularly underexposed, or even do the whole roll for one image you think may be the killer one! You may well find 400 is enough, but if you plan and shoot at 800 there is less leeway, things start to get more critical and there is no fudge factor, all you images have to be boosted in development even if you later decide your nightime sequenced was a waste of time, but your daytime shots were great. So after you expose a roll make a note on the cassette of your initial thoughts, like 'push' or 'pull' or 'normal', and note the subject. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobYIL Posted June 8, 2011 Share #9 Posted June 8, 2011 David... Xtol is fine for ISO800, just try 8 minutes at 68F. Keep in mind but try it rather on a test film to learn: You can push Tri-X even ISO1600 if you develop for 10-10.5 minutes however it will look harsh, too contrasty, shadow detail all black.. I do not think that you'd like the tones if you are aiming to scan but not wet print it on grade #1 paper for example.. Just try and learn it but don't use it unless absolutely required. (Film latitude is not like digital high ISO DR.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacarape Posted June 8, 2011 Share #10 Posted June 8, 2011 Without knowing how much light there is, rec'ing a film/ISO speed is odd. For outside, 100 ISO, maybe Reala, or Kodak 160, if the lighting is mixed, Ektar to pop the shadows out a tad. For interior shots, how much DoF are you going to need? Also, why take only 3 rolls? Take 6, 100 Reala, Kodak 160, Plus-X, Tri-X, P3200, you don't have to shoot them all so it's nice to have what you may need instead of wishing you have something you left at home. You'll figure out what film/ISO you'll need after you meter a scene, no? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheewai_m6 Posted June 8, 2011 Share #11 Posted June 8, 2011 Nice photo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwrz Posted June 9, 2011 Author Share #12 Posted June 9, 2011 Thank you for your replies. It's great to see that there are so many options. I've just loaded some Tri-X and will probably shoot it at 1600 over the next day or so. I'd like to have an idea of what it looks like, for future reference. I think all things considered I will probably shoot at 400. Hopefully I will have so decent shots to post back next week. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdozier Posted June 9, 2011 Share #13 Posted June 9, 2011 Of course I don't know how fast your lens is but if it's a 'cron or 'lux you might could get by at 800 w/ no prob. Pushed to 1600 can be a bit stretched for outside daylight. JMHO. Be safe. M Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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