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Two cameras, two lenses, what to do?


jamnew

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New to Leica. A couple months ago, got my Dad's old M3 with a 35/2 (v2, with goggles) and 50/2. Now just got an M9. Going to England with the family for a few weeks this summer and taking both cameras. Hope to get a lot of great pics. So my dilemma. I don't want to be constantly exchanging the lenses, so I need to decide which should get the 35 and which the 50. Both lenses seem to be in excellent working condition. I am planning on mainly shooting B&W with the M3. I was thinking that probably I would be using the M3 more for closer up shots of people and stuff and the M9 more for larger scenes, so the 50 would go on the M3. Are there any other factors to consider? Which way would you do it? Bonus question: I do also have a 90/2.8, that I will also bring. What kind of situations would make you pull out this lens?

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Just take the M9 and your lenses (you don't need a dedicated camera just for B&W), plus a P&S as backup.

 

Steve

 

No doubt, the most reasonable course of action. I guess given the the M9 is so new, I am a bit worried that I would run into some issues with it. But the main reason for wanting to bring the M3 is just nostalgia. I was born in England in 1961 and have a lot of great photos from then than my Dad took with his new camera. So just want to show him it can still contribute I suppose. Looking forward to three days in the Peaks district!

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Welcome to the forum, Jamnew!

 

I'd think there'd be less chance of red-edge with the 50 on the M9 because it's a longer lens so I'd put the 35 on the M3.:)

 

Pete.

 

Red edge with a 35mm lens on the M9? I've never heard of that before, not even a 28mm Summicron produces 'red edge'.

 

Steve

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You basically answered your own question. Take it all, shoot what feels right. Mix it up, switch lenses. If you want to simplify your thinking, them shoot only B&W in the film M. Then look at the world in B&W. Change to colour vision then bring out the M9. You are the artist, these are your tools.

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Steve,

 

For references please note posts 7, 17, 37, and 45 in the Red Edge Enough Already thread.:o

 

Pete.

 

I can't see red edge in any of my photographs with a 35mm or 28mm. Which would mean there must be some sample variation at some point, unless I'm lying. What is your experience of 'red edge' with the M9 with a 35mm and a 28mm?

 

Steve

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'cron 35 with goggles was expressly made for the M3, so it would be more logical that you do accordingly. Besides, there are no restrictions about mixing and matching the lenses and the cameras you have. You're likely to get fine results anyway.

 

Cheers,

Bruno

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I can't see red edge in any of my photographs with a 35mm or 28mm. Which would mean there must be some sample variation at some point, unless I'm lying. What is your experience of 'red edge' with the M9 with a 35mm and a 28mm?

Steve,

 

I'm not suggesting for a moment that you're lying.:confused: You challenged my suggestion that a 35mm could produce red-edge so I've provided you with opinion from others who say they've found it.

 

I suppose there might be some sample variation between M9's or there might be crucial tolerances or not maybe not all 35mm lenses behave the same way. I don't have an M9 so I have to rely on others' opinion.

 

Pete.

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Thanks. I know there is no right answer, I was just fishing to see what kind of factors folks might consider matching two fairly different lenses to two fairly different cameras. No doubt, some interchanging will occur.

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Hello jamnew,

 

Welcome to the Forum.

 

Altho what Steve said above is certainly academically correct & practical there is nothing in Leitz/Leica that compares to photographing w/ a 90 using the range/viewfinder of an M3. The M3 was made for viewing the scene of & the area around a 90 like no Leitz/Leica camera range/viewfinder before or since. None of the others is even close in terms of image size, clarity, ease of use & accuracy. It is what an M3 is for.

 

This poses a problem, or @ least it does for me. You see I am one of the people on this Forum (there are a number like me) who continually suggest simplifiying & minimizing travel kits w/ the perspective that generally if you are willing to give up a little here & there you can often gain a lot in terms of personal & mechanical flexibility by removing both physical & mental clutter.

 

So, some thoughts.

 

Unlike 10 years ago when film was mostly better & 10 years from now when digital or whatever replaces it will most likely be better @ this time the final quality of image you get from good quality film & good quality digital are pretty much the same. Some people will disagree w/ this statement.

 

Keep in mind: Digital or whatever replaces it is the future. Not film.

 

Film is not dead nor will it be for a while.

 

The M9 has a built in light meter the M3's is separate (many types available).

 

The range/viewfinder of the M9 shows an image .68 life size w/ the 90. The M3 .91. Both w/ a visible perimeter in the viewfinder field outside the area covered by the sensor/film when using a 90 which many people find useful in terms of composition in general & for anticipating the actions of moving/upcoming people &/or objects.

 

W/ the 35 w/ goggles the magnifications are .45 M9 & .60 M3. Assuming the goggled 35 mechanically fits the M9. It is optically compatable both lens & viewfinder. The image of the 35 is expanded to fill the viewfinder completely w/ the M3. W/ the M9 there is significant free area around the image field.

 

These image sizes & extraneous fields are significant issues. The unrecorded viewing angle of an M9 using a 90 is significantly larger than what is seen w/ the same 90 on an M3 while @ the same time the M3 will show a 1/3 larger image of what is actually being captured. You should try both lenses in both cameras & see which work how for you. The 35 will be proportionately similar to the 90.

 

There are other significant issues:

 

Using a digital sensor frees you from a large ammount of ephemera that comes along w/ film. It does this @ the cost of increasing the complexity of what needs to be done after capturing a scene to produce a satisfactory image. Digital Post Processing is something you sould ask someone else about. It is not my area of expertise.

 

You may have noticed I have not mentioned the 50. Beginning in the late 1950's w/ the advent of high quality wide angle lenses many photographers would use a 35 & a 90 leaving out other focal legnths when portability & versatility were important. The theory being they were wide apart enough focal lengths to cover many circumstances while still being close enough to cover much of what a 50 in between would. This pair combination continued as a popular choice until the advent of even better high quality & relatively inexpensive wide angle lenses coupled w/ higher resoloution films & sensors in the end of the 20th Century allowed manufacturers to shrink lens focal length & camera image capture area. Similar to conditions which led to the development of the original Leica & 50mm lens in the 1st 1/4 of the 20th Century.

 

As a factor of this 90's which used to be a mainstay esspecially in situations like yours have recently been eclipsed by shorter lenses. The same to a certain degree for 35's.

 

Anyhow here is what I would suggest you consider: Try the 90 & the 35 on both cameras using the lightmeter in the M9 for both cameras regardless of which lens is on which camera. Switch them back & forth & see which you personally like better for what.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael

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That's awesome MIchael. Thanks. I was sure there would be some factors that might be worth considering, and many of these I hadn't. I like the idea of using the 90 as one of my lenses as I walk out the door with in the morning and putting the 35 or 50 on the other camera. It will be fun to switch around and see what what kind of things happen. Having had the M3 for a while, I have a chance to do some stuff with it and have been impressed with what kind of results I've had. Have an Coolscan V, so has been reasonably easy to digitize. See no reason to make it stay at home, especially if I it keeps another lens at the ready. M3, 35/2, Ektar 100, Grand Canyon photo attached (with luck).

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Steve,

 

I'm not suggesting for a moment that you're lying.:confused: .

 

No, I said if I'm lying (like to myself) that although I haven't seen it in any that have got as far as post processing I may not have looked hard enough through all my photographs with a 35mm Summicron (or 28mm Summicron). I am fairly attuned to red edge because its a feature of any exposure I make with my CV 21mm.

 

Steve

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Enjoy. No right - or wrong - photographic answer to your question so fall back on your personal taste and style and put the lens you'll use the most on the digital camera. Much less expensive

to shoot away and show your father you're a chip off the old block. Since neither camera weighs

much an extra body isn't a huge decision factor, they'll whole kit will fit in almost any bag choice,

so don't worrry about it. Happy tripping.

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So, I had neglected to mention the 90mm originally. So it was actually three lenses, And now I've gone and ordered the Zeiss 25mm lens too, figuring it's different enough from the 35mm and that it might be nice to have one lens that is younger than me in the kit. Oh well...looks like it's gonna be musical chairs.

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