c.d.ewen Posted May 23, 2011 Share #1  Posted May 23, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Well, maybe it's me that takes the crappy pix, but I can't figure out how to stop.  I am really dissatisfied with the people pictures my new D-LUX 5 takes - they always seem to be out of focus. This weekend, I decided to experiment, before exchanging the camera (I figured the one I got was a lemon). I took some pictures indoors, first using available light, then with a flash. I put the camera in Moron Mode, i.e., Snapshot, and blasted away. Below is a typical result - sharp with flash, blurry without. I made sure the green focus dot was lit solid. The example was shot with a slow shutter speed, but camera shake isn't the problem, as outdoor pictures show the same result.  Now, I'm not new at this. I got my first Leica in 1962, and have taken 10k's of digital photos for more than a decade. I have read Alexander White's fine D-LUX 5 book and still don't understand what's going wrong. I'm open to suggestions.  Charley Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/152420-my-d-lux-5-takes-crappy-pictures/?do=findComment&comment=1680335'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted May 23, 2011 Posted May 23, 2011 Hi c.d.ewen, Take a look here My D-LUX 5 takes crappy pictures. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
bill Posted May 23, 2011 Share #2 Â Posted May 23, 2011 Welcome, Â Can you share with us your focus settings? Â Regards. Â Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted May 23, 2011 Share #3 Â Posted May 23, 2011 Looks to me like the first shot is focussed on the background, and there is likely some degree of camera shake involved. There's lots of noise too which suggests a very high ISO has been selected, which means less detail. Â The flash shot is fine. Â I doubt the camera is at fault, you need to learn to use the camera to its best abilities and within its limitations. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ho_co Posted May 23, 2011 Share #4 Â Posted May 23, 2011 IMO, it's definitely camera shake. Nothing wrong with the camera. It's very difficult to hand-hold the little thing at arms' length. Remember, press the shutter gently so that you're surprised when it goes off. Â Rule of thumb: If nothing is sharp, it's camera shake; and nothing is sharp in #1. Â The camera focused properly for #2, so there's nothing wrong with it. Â The problem with full Auto mode is that it locks the ISO to 100. At least, that's what I think I recall from the D-Lux 4. Â Go to Program Mode and set the ISO to Auto, and set the Auto to range up to 400 or 800, and your problem will be solved. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
c.d.ewen Posted May 23, 2011 Author Share #5  Posted May 23, 2011 Thanks for the quick observations. Yes, the first photo was high ISO - 800.  I really don't want to beleive the problem is camera shake, as I was careful about holding the camera steady and watching for the green focus light. I wasn't using the EVF, but will this weekend, just to see if having the thing plastered to my nose has an effect.  Please keep in mind that I chose the D-LUX 5 so that I could use the sophisticated settings, but my wife (typical point-and-shoot grandmother) could also produce good results when using the simplest settings. The trouble I'm having is evident in the automated SNAPSHOT mode.  I've attached another pair of photos, taking in a brighter setting. I've also attached enlargements from the photos. I would have expected better detail in the child's hair, for instance.  Charley   The EXIF info for #1:  Make - LEICA Model - D-LUX 5 Orientation - Top left XResolution - 180 YResolution - 180 ResolutionUnit - Inch Software - Adobe Photoshop CS Windows DateTime - 2011:05:23 14:34:41 YCbCrPositioning - Co-Sited ExifOffset - 648 ExposureTime - 1/25 seconds FNumber - 2.60 ExposureProgram - Portrait mode ISOSpeedRatings - 400 ExifVersion - 0230 DateTimeOriginal - 2010:05:21 13:41:12 DateTimeDigitized - 2010:05:21 13:41:12 ComponentsConfiguration - YCbCr CompressedBitsPerPixel - 4 (bits/pixel) ExposureBiasValue - 0.00 MaxApertureValue - F 2.00 MeteringMode - Multi-segment LightSource - Auto Flash - Flash not fired, compulsory flash mode FocalLength - 10.00 mm FlashPixVersion - 0100 ColorSpace - sRGB ExifImageWidth - 960 ExifImageHeight - 540 InteroperabilityOffset - 1160 SensingMethod - One-chip color area sensor FileSource - DSC - Digital still camera SceneType - A directly photographed image CustomRendered - Normal process ExposureMode - Auto White Balance - Auto DigitalZoomRatio - 0.00 x FocalLengthIn35mmFilm - 47 mm SceneCaptureType - Standard GainControl - High gain up Contrast - Normal Saturation - Normal Sharpness - Normal Thumbnail: - Compression - 6 (JPG) XResolution - 72 YResolution - 72 ResolutionUnit - Inch JpegIFOffset - 1286 JpegIFByteCount - 6338   And for #2:  Make - LEICA Model - D-LUX 5 Orientation - Top left XResolution - 180 YResolution - 180 ResolutionUnit - Inch Software - Adobe Photoshop CS Windows DateTime - 2011:05:23 14:37:52 YCbCrPositioning - Co-Sited ExifOffset - 648 ExposureTime - 1/60 seconds FNumber - 2.60 ExposureProgram - Portrait mode ISOSpeedRatings - 400 ExifVersion - 0230 DateTimeOriginal - 2010:05:21 13:41:18 DateTimeDigitized - 2010:05:21 13:41:18 ComponentsConfiguration - YCbCr CompressedBitsPerPixel - 4 (bits/pixel) ExposureBiasValue - 0.00 MaxApertureValue - F 2.00 MeteringMode - Multi-segment LightSource - Flash Flash - Flash fired, auto mode, red-eye reduction mode FocalLength - 10.00 mm FlashPixVersion - 0100 ColorSpace - sRGB ExifImageWidth - 960 ExifImageHeight - 540 InteroperabilityOffset - 1160 SensingMethod - One-chip color area sensor FileSource - DSC - Digital still camera SceneType - A directly photographed image CustomRendered - Normal process ExposureMode - Auto White Balance - Auto DigitalZoomRatio - 0.00 x FocalLengthIn35mmFilm - 47 mm SceneCaptureType - Standard GainControl - High gain up Contrast - Normal Saturation - Normal Sharpness - Normal Thumbnail: - Compression - 6 (JPG) XResolution - 72 YResolution - 72 ResolutionUnit - Inch JpegIFOffset - 1286 JpegIFByteCount - 6263 Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/152420-my-d-lux-5-takes-crappy-pictures/?do=findComment&comment=1680567'>More sharing options...
pop Posted May 23, 2011 Share #6 Â Posted May 23, 2011 I do not think it's camera shake. You won't equally shake in all directions, and therefore the blur would not be perfectly symmetrical. I can not discern any direction to the blur. Good places to look for those would be the necklace or the colour pattern of her dress. Â OTOH, the paneling on the wall looks sharper than the couple. There's some structure reflected in the picture frame, perhaps a window frame or a fireplace which looks quite sharp. That would indicate that the focus was set at something like 6 meters. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
c.d.ewen Posted May 23, 2011 Author Share #7 Â Posted May 23, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hmmm, I just took a fast look at the EXIF info I posted above, and noticed that it shows ExposureProgram - Portrait mode. Another program I use, PIE, shows Exposure Mode - Auto along with ExposureProgram - Portrait mode. The camera was certainly set in Auto/Snapshot. Â Charley Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
c.d.ewen Posted May 23, 2011 Author Share #8 Â Posted May 23, 2011 OTOH, the paneling on the wall looks sharper than the couple. There's some structure reflected in the picture frame, perhaps a window frame or a fireplace which looks quite sharp. That would indicate that the focus was set at something like 6 meters. Â Yes, it was a fireplace, and 6m is a good approximation. Â EXIF doesn't show actual focusing distance, does it? It shows focal length as 8.5mm, 40mm equivalent. Â Charley Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
macjim Posted May 23, 2011 Share #9 Â Posted May 23, 2011 Have you got the image stabilisation switched on? Looks Luke the second photo is taken with too slow a speed. Â Â Cheers, Macjim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pop Posted May 23, 2011 Share #10  Posted May 23, 2011 Yes, it was a fireplace, and 6m is a good approximation. EXIF doesn't show actual focusing distance, does it?  EXIF does not show the focus setting. I even had a look at the EXIF of one of my own pictures (taken with an D-Lux 3).  I don't know the autofocus settings of your camera.  I set all my digital cameras to take just the center point of the image to set the focus. I then aim it at a part of my subject which has a nice vertical edge. I then gently press the release, wait untli the focus confirmation light is lit, keep the release gently pressed, then reframe, then depress the release all the way. That way I manage quite a few sharp shots. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted May 23, 2011 Share #11 Â Posted May 23, 2011 1/25th on an LCD camera - no way can you avoid motion blur. Check if you switched on the stabiliser Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pop Posted May 23, 2011 Share #12 Â Posted May 23, 2011 1/25th on an LCD camera - no way can you avoid motion blur. Â Not so. I have used a similar camera not only with 1/30th but even with 1/10th and a bit of luck for images which turned out sharper than those shown here. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
c.d.ewen Posted May 23, 2011 Author Share #13  Posted May 23, 2011 1/25th on an LCD camera - no way can you avoid motion blur. Check if you switched on the stabiliser  As was mentioned above, the blur evident in these photos is not typical of motion blur.  The Stabilizer is always set to Auto when the camera is in Snapshot Mode, so it was on for all of these photos..  In the Recording Menu in Manual Mode, I have AF Mode set to 1-Area rather than Face Detection, not that it should matter.  In Auto/Snapshot Mode, Face Recognition is set to Off, but I noticed that the camera still detected faces (open rectangles), and would have, I presume, used at least one of them as a focus point.  Charley Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ho_co Posted May 23, 2011 Share #14 Â Posted May 23, 2011 Charley, I'll beg out of the discussion on the basis that I don't have a D-Lux 5. Â For me, 1/25 is way too slow with the D-Lux 4; I almost always shoot three pictures of a scene to be sure one is good enough to use. Others are more stable than I; I was also formerly more stable than now. You're using a 47mm lens equivalent at 1/25 sec. That's half the minimum rule-of-thumb speed of 1/50 that would be sometimes inadequate for most people. Â I think the D-Lux 5 will automatically go into any one of about 5 "scene types" when in Auto Mode (explaining why the EXIF shows 'Portrait Mode'). Â There are too many cross-assumptions on the camera for me to try to dissect its pictures. With the D-Lux 4, it took me at least three months to figure out how all the pieces fit together. Â You're right, the camera does go into Auto ISO when set to "iAuto" or whatever it's called; my error above. Â I would try a pair like these two pairs using a tripod to eliminate the possibility of motion. Â Be sure you're aware of how your focus is set. You can have a central spot focus (probably not to recommend in general situations) or a central area focus or a set of various areas, where the camera will show you which it chose or a face-priority mode etc. There are also high- and normal-speed focus modes for some of the combinations. Â With a couple as in the first pair of pictures, the focus area is likely centered between the two people, on the gentleman's shoulder rather than on either face. The way to work with a scene like that is to read and lock the (exposure and) focus with either the AE/AF lock button or by half-pressing the release button or by using manual focus and the AF button atop the camera (if the D-Lux 5 is like the D-Lux 4 in that regard) and then recomposing before shooting. Â It could be that there's something wrong with the camera, but I think it's just learning to work with how it works. Â Good luck to you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZDavid Posted May 24, 2011 Share #15 Â Posted May 24, 2011 The D-Lux is a lovely compact camera so I am sorry you have had poor results. It's hard to tell just looking at the pictures, so I hope this helps. Â Shutter speed: Holding steady at below 1/25 is very hard with a P/S camera because they are so light. Using the LCD to frame the shot, as most people do, also makes the camera less stable. That's one reason why manufacturers introduced image stabilization. I find it much easier to get steady shots with a heavier M camera and optical viewfinder, but even so I wouldn't go below 1/15. Â With the D-Lux 5 it is very easy to just set auto, point and shoot, and hope for the best. But it is still a good idea to check shutter speed on the LCD before pressing the shutter. 1/25 should be OK, but only just. And if you are zooming in to 90-equiv, then it needs to be faster. Hold still! I would make sure to use at least 1/60 if possible. Also consider getting an optical viewfinder, but bear in mind you can only use it at the widest 24-equiv setting. There is also an EVF (electronic viewfinder) available but I have no idea what it's like. Â Modes: I have to admit I haven't used all those modes; I just choose P. Â ISO: I set ISO manually. 800-1600 is fine for gritty street markets and the like, but I wouldn't go over 400 for portraits if at all possible, or the image will be too noisy. I much prefer available light to on-camera flash. Â Focal length and aperture: The wider DOF of the small sensor should cover minor focus errors. If you had selected f/2 with a 90mm lens only one face would likely to be in focus and the rest blurry (it's hard having lots of faces in the frame), but that doesn't appear to be the case here. However, the wider sitting will mean more is in focus. Â Focus: It is very hard to know precisely where the point of focus is with any AF system. I tried face recognition on the X1 but it didn't work. Â Conclusion: I would experiment some more with various settings to find which works for you, then write them down for next time, or before handing the camera over to someone else. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walt Calahan Posted May 24, 2011 Share #16  Posted May 24, 2011 This never happens with my Panasonic LX5. Ha ha ha ha ha ha  Get back to basics by turning off all the "engineered" shooting modes.  Make sure you use the focus display "squares" so you know exactly where the camera is locking its auto-focus. The wall behind the couple is perfectly sharp with no camera shake.  Make sure you shoot Camera RAW format so you can remove noise in post-production. I never trust the post-production built into the camera when shooting Jpeg. How do those Japanese programmers know how I want my Jpegs to look? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
macjim Posted May 24, 2011 Share #17 Â Posted May 24, 2011 I'm now thinking it could be this; because it's in low light and flash off, the camera is using F2 or thereabouts and, with the combination of the focus being out, that is why the faces are blurred. Try switching from spot metering and use larger area metering. Remember, it may be a comparatively large sensor for a camera of this size nut it is still a small sensor when compared to a DSLR. Â Â Cheers, Macjim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
macjim Posted May 24, 2011 Share #18 Â Posted May 24, 2011 One question: when you took the photos, pressing the shutter release, did you depress fully or first half way then fully depress? If you rush the camera, it will give these kind of results as I have experienced myself. That could be the problem with these photos. One is sharp and the other appears overall blurred. Â Â Cheers, Macjim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
macjim Posted May 24, 2011 Share #19 Â Posted May 24, 2011 Just had a look throughout alexander s white's book, the photographers guide to the D-Lux 5, and he mentions 'face detection'. In the menu, you will find 'face detection', switch it on and that should make it focus on the faced of the people your photographing. You can also use the top mode dial and set it to the faces mode: see if that helps. Â Â Cheers, Macjim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted May 24, 2011 Share #20 Â Posted May 24, 2011 Try taking shots of a subject handheld (at 1/25 second), and on a tripod at the same speed. Make sure you have focussed on the subject correctly, and see if there is any difference. That will tell you if you are holding the camera steady enough. Â Personally I find that I cannot hold a digicam steady at low speeds - I can get sharp results with a film camera at 1/15 however! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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