Scratched negatives: a quick solution for scanning

[koray]

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Here I want to share my experience on scanning scratched negatives. I thought it might be helpful since recently there are many questions posted on this.

 

I've never owned an ICE capable scanner, so I had to find a solution for covering scratches on colour negatives when scanning them with my Konica Minolta film scanner. Post processing is not adequate in some cases. So 6 years back, I purchased a liquid solution called Rexton Scratch-Match from Adorama. It worked great! You just apply liberally over the frame you want to scan, it doesn't evaporate quickly and stays there. You wipe it off later, doesn't leave any residue. You can also clean the film with your favourite cleaner afterwards.

 

6 years fast forward, I am no longer living in the States, and similar products are not available for airmail postage due to harmful/toxic properties. So I had to find a local alternative.

 

TURPENTINE!

 

Yes, it is the same stuff, smells the same, and works the same, and cheaper! I read somewhere that Scratch-Match had some Chloroform (now a regulated substance) added to Turpentine. But apparently, Turpentine by itself works OK, too. I used distilled filtered Turpentine from Daler-Rowney. For better results apply with a flat painter's brush. Note that this solution doesn't help emulsion scratches.

 

Below is the proof. I deliberately scratched (a bit too much actually) a negative strip and tested for you.

 

Cheers,

 

Koray

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Edited May 13, 2011 by koray
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[dachs]

Ever so thanks for the tip.

 

But, doesn't the dust get even worse on the wet surface? Though dust is easier to deal with than physical scratches or tram lines.

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[koray]

Ever so thanks for the tip.

 

But, doesn't the dust get even worse on the wet surface? Though dust is easier to deal with than physical scratches or tram lines.

 

No, during scanning you try to work at a dust free environment. Any dust left on the negative is brushed away when you apply the turpentine. Some of the dust may get suspended in the liquid, but with consecutive brush strokes they go away.

 

By the way, this technique replaces nose oil, and can be applied in wet darkroom printing, too!

 

Cheers!

 

Koray

[DES]

That is fantastic. Thanks for a great tip.

[Guido]

Does this work on the emulsion side too without causing damage?

[koray]

Does this work on the emulsion side too without causing damage?

 

Hi, Rexton Scratch Match was OK for the emulsion side (though, it doesn't recover lost emulsion), so pure turpentine should be fine, too. However, there is no point in using these on the emulsion side since any lost emulsion is lost forever, plus, fine scratches on the emulsion side does not appear on scans as far as I know.

 

Cheers,

 

Koray

[too old to care]

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I always assumed that the scratches I see in my scans were caused by me wiping the negative and scratching the emulsion side? I now do the final wash in distilled water and have eliminated them.

 

Wayne

[koray]

I always assumed that the scratches I see in my scans were caused by me wiping the negative and scratching the emulsion side? I now do the final wash in distilled water and have eliminated them.

 

Wayne

 

Scratch problem is most evident when scanning my C41 negatives, which are developed by local labs (and handled carelessly). My own home developed B&W negatives are mostly fine (except for a few odd dust speckles).

 

I assume that those C41 negatives arrive equally scratched on both sides. Applying turpentine only on the film base eliminates them altogether, so that's why I think the film base is the critical side for scratches.

 

Koray

 

PS: Similarly I use Brita filtered water for final wash, works great!

Edited May 16, 2011 by koray
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