Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
koray

Scratched negatives: a quick solution for scanning

Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Here I want to share my experience on scanning scratched negatives. I thought it might be helpful since recently there are many questions posted on this.

 

I've never owned an ICE capable scanner, so I had to find a solution for covering scratches on colour negatives when scanning them with my Konica Minolta film scanner. Post processing is not adequate in some cases. So 6 years back, I purchased a liquid solution called Rexton Scratch-Match from Adorama. It worked great! You just apply liberally over the frame you want to scan, it doesn't evaporate quickly and stays there. You wipe it off later, doesn't leave any residue. You can also clean the film with your favourite cleaner afterwards.

 

6 years fast forward, I am no longer living in the States, and similar products are not available for airmail postage due to harmful/toxic properties. So I had to find a local alternative.

 

TURPENTINE!

 

Yes, it is the same stuff, smells the same, and works the same, and cheaper! I read somewhere that Scratch-Match had some Chloroform (now a regulated substance) added to Turpentine. But apparently, Turpentine by itself works OK, too. I used distilled filtered Turpentine from Daler-Rowney. For better results apply with a flat painter's brush. Note that this solution doesn't help emulsion scratches.

 

Below is the proof. I deliberately scratched (a bit too much actually) a negative strip and tested for you.

 

Cheers,

 

Koray

Edited by koray
Typos and images

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ever so thanks for the tip.

 

But, doesn't the dust get even worse on the wet surface? Though dust is easier to deal with than physical scratches or tram lines.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ever so thanks for the tip.

 

But, doesn't the dust get even worse on the wet surface? Though dust is easier to deal with than physical scratches or tram lines.

 

No, during scanning you try to work at a dust free environment. Any dust left on the negative is brushed away when you apply the turpentine. Some of the dust may get suspended in the liquid, but with consecutive brush strokes they go away.

 

By the way, this technique replaces nose oil, and can be applied in wet darkroom printing, too!

 

Cheers!

 

Koray

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Does this work on the emulsion side too without causing damage?

 

Hi, Rexton Scratch Match was OK for the emulsion side (though, it doesn't recover lost emulsion), so pure turpentine should be fine, too. However, there is no point in using these on the emulsion side since any lost emulsion is lost forever, plus, fine scratches on the emulsion side does not appear on scans as far as I know.

 

Cheers,

 

Koray

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Advertisement (gone after registration)

I always assumed that the scratches I see in my scans were caused by me wiping the negative and scratching the emulsion side? I now do the final wash in distilled water and have eliminated them.

 

Wayne

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I always assumed that the scratches I see in my scans were caused by me wiping the negative and scratching the emulsion side? I now do the final wash in distilled water and have eliminated them.

 

Wayne

 

Scratch problem is most evident when scanning my C41 negatives, which are developed by local labs (and handled carelessly). My own home developed B&W negatives are mostly fine (except for a few odd dust speckles).

 

I assume that those C41 negatives arrive equally scratched on both sides. Applying turpentine only on the film base eliminates them altogether, so that's why I think the film base is the critical side for scratches.

 

Koray

 

PS: Similarly I use Brita filtered water for final wash, works great!

Edited by koray
Typos

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By ashley12234
      Hello everyone!
      I'm new to the leica film cameras but I came up a rather very nice iiif in great condition which comes with a summarit 50mm f1.5 going for about $550. This sounded like a pretty good deal to me, however, upon closer inspection the lens seemed to have a lot of haze (not sure about fungus) as when I performed the light test there were specks everywhere. It seemed to be internal and in the second glass?? Not sure how to fix it or if I even can, also the focus ring was pretty stiff (but that isn't a deal breaker or anything). Like I said, the body of the camera was in very good condition however the lens is my biggest concern. As most of you are owners/experts and such please help me out and let me know if this is a good deal or not. 
      Thanks, Ashley
    • By Andreas_Kreuz
      Immer mehr Flughäfen rüsten ihre Sicherheitsschleusen auf neuartige CT-Scanner um, auch in Deutschland. Sie bringen für Flugpassagiere deutlich mehr Komfort, Filme und Fotopapier werden hingegen bereits bei einem Durchgang durch die Geräte ruiniert – davor warnen jetzt Kodak Alaris und Ilford unabhängig voneinander.
      https://www.photoscala.de/2020/02/02/gefahr-am-airport-neue-ct-scanner-ruinieren-jeden-film/
       
    • By 35mmview
      I'm thinking of going to the Holi festival in Delhi (the coloured dust thrown everywhere one) this year and obviously want to take my M240.
      I can throw on a 15mm lens which means I can pretty much point and shoot but what is the best way to protect the whole thing.
      Is it freezer bags and tape are are there custom options?
      Many thanks in advance, Dave.
    • By frame-it
      Got this new film..images on the lomo site looked quite interesting

      Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. Hallo Gast! Du willst die Bilder sehen? Einfach registrieren oder anmelden!  
       
    • By shirubadanieru
      Hi everyone, I was wondering if anyone has used the Sonnar 50mm f1.5 on a M film body and can tell me if the focus shift is noticeable? 
      I used to have this lens and loved it's small size and bokeh, but the focus shift on my digital M was too much so I decided to sell it.
      Thanks in advance!
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue., Read more about our Privacy Policy