dhoelscher Posted January 30, 2007 Share #21  Posted January 30, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) One thing about this lens that I'd like to point out for potential M8 purchasers ...   I have been unsuccessful after several attempts to code this lens ... there's a screw in the bayonet field where the dots should be.  I've attempted to code it as a WATE ... but this is difficult as there's no feedback in the display (no focal length displayed) even if a real WATE is attached.  This is a big deal to me, as the Sean Reid Cyan Drift (trademark Tm) is very stubborn with the 486 filter on this lens.    See the attached shot ... by the way, this is obviously with a 486 filter ... check out the stubborn remaining magenta in the gentleman's jacket (absolutely black all round to my eyes) even though this is in daylight and with raw developer's new IR 486 profile.  DH Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/14796-anyone-familiar-with-zeiss-15mm-zm/?do=findComment&comment=157425'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 30, 2007 Posted January 30, 2007 Hi dhoelscher, Take a look here Anyone Familiar with Zeiss 15mm ZM?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
dhoelscher Posted January 30, 2007 Share #22 Â Posted January 30, 2007 And I ask the Forum's Experts - so with the 486 filter blocking as much of the IR light as we're ever going to get ... what's left? A better profile for the M8 with 486? Â It's a bit disappointing to me that I've still got magentas in my black synthetic fabrics even with a 486 filter (and Brian's IR profile). Â DH Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guy_mancuso Posted January 30, 2007 Share #23  Posted January 30, 2007 Speaking generally, I wouldn't let anyone keep you from posting here. Just do your thing and don't worry about it. Most of us here are able to put things (and individual posts) in their proper context so if you post and someone else insults you, just keep rolling. I speak, unfortunately, from vast experience, having been insulted on forums, in PMs, by e-mail, carrier pigeon, etc. If one can muster it, it's best to just ignore and keep rolling (my third cliche in just one post!) <G> Cheers,  Sean   LOL even get banned which i just did on FM yesterday. My banning fortunetly was of sound principles that should apply everywhere in the world and that is respect, behaviour and politeness to forum members and a Mod at FM broke his own rules and I won't stand for absusive behavior and let them know that , so i am gone and just as well. Rather put energy into a forum that is more to my principles like here. like Sean lot's of egg's get tossed my way just ignore it and move on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guy_mancuso Posted January 30, 2007 Share #24 Â Posted January 30, 2007 David would you send me that raw file if you don't mind. i would like to process it and see if i can easily get the blacks better there. just use YouSendIt: The Leader in File Delivery. and you know my e-mail. Â Hope you don't mind me asking. This cyan cast we have to solve until 1.10 comes out . Need a easy fix today until it comes out Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guy_mancuso Posted January 30, 2007 Share #25 Â Posted January 30, 2007 A good friend of mine has the zeiss 15mm and he is sending his M8 to get fixed i may borrow it and run some tests with it. BTW there IS another option here that i forgot . Get a Novaflex R to M adapter and use a R 15mm 2.8 or 3.5. of course it is guess work but DMR users rejoice you can use it. I use my converted R mount Olympus 24mm shift on the M8 but let's not forget that there are R lenses out there that we can use also. Okay the R 15mm 2.8 is 7 k . LOL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drjon Posted January 30, 2007 Share #26  Posted January 30, 2007 If one can muster it, it's best to just ignore and keep rolling (my third cliche in just one post!) <G> Cheers,  Sean  Thanks Sean and Guy; I will try to muster and muster. Guy, more time to take photos now you got banned from FM. Moderator...heal thyself. Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhoelscher Posted January 30, 2007 Share #27  Posted January 30, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) David would you send me that raw file if you don't mind. i would like to process it and see if i can easily get the blacks better there. just use YouSendIt: The Leader in File Delivery. and you know my e-mail. Hope you don't mind me asking. This cyan cast we have to solve until 1.10 comes out . Need a easy fix today until it comes out  I don't mind, thanks for your help. The file's on its way!  See if you're better at the SRCD (how's that for a new acronym for Sean Reid Cyan Drift!) than I have been.  I haven't had a chance to look for PTGui yet.  DH Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guy_mancuso Posted January 30, 2007 Share #28  Posted January 30, 2007 Thanks Sean and Guy; I will try to muster and muster. Guy, more time to take photos now you got banned from FM. Moderator...heal thyself. Jon  Exactly and i have a big schedule starting tommorow , one place for all my information dump is plenty for me. Frankly this IS the best M8 information dump there is. We have great folks here Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guy_mancuso Posted January 30, 2007 Share #29  Posted January 30, 2007 David this was a little tough in any profile i tried it was still there so i processed it than in PS went into curves and went to the red channel and played with the bottom end dark side and lowered the red. So that went away.  okay the cyan i used a airbrush at very low percentage than used color dodge and picked a pantone magenta color and airbrushed a little to take out some cyan from the cast. Not perfect and the PTgui is supposed to work better but for some reason i had trouble loading it on my Mac Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/14796-anyone-familiar-with-zeiss-15mm-zm/?do=findComment&comment=157517'>More sharing options...
sean_reid Posted January 30, 2007 Share #30  Posted January 30, 2007 One thing about this lens that I'd like to point out for potential M8 purchasers ...  I have been unsuccessful after several attempts to code this lens ... there's a screw in the bayonet field where the dots should be.  I've attempted to code it as a WATE ... but this is difficult as there's no feedback in the display (no focal length displayed) even if a real WATE is attached.  This is a big deal to me, as the Sean Reid Cyan Drift (trademark Tm) is very stubborn with the 486 filter on this lens.    See the attached shot ... by the way, this is obviously with a 486 filter ... check out the stubborn remaining magenta in the gentleman's jacket (absolutely black all round to my eyes) even though this is in daylight and with raw developer's new IR 486 profile.  DH  I'd narrow things down by controlling some variables so that you can see what's going on. First I'd shoot the tests with a WhiBal card so that you can be sure the WB is dead on. Next, I'd process the file in RAW Developer, C1 and perhaps something else. That will give you a better idea of what is going on.  Not until firmware 1.10 are we going to see aggressive correction for cyan drift in ultra-wides, like a 15, so for that part we have to be patient for.  Cheers,  Sean Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhoelscher Posted January 30, 2007 Share #31  Posted January 30, 2007 David this was a little tough in any profile i tried it was still there so i processed it than in PS went into curves and went to the red channel and played with the bottom end dark side and lowered the red. So that went away. okay the cyan i used a airbrush at very low percentage than used color dodge and picked a pantone magenta color and airbrushed a little to take out some cyan from the cast. Not perfect and the PTgui is supposed to work better but for some reason i had trouble loading it on my Mac  Hey thanks, Guy!  You did a much better job at the SRCD than I did, for sure.  Maybe I could have sponged his jacket as well.   I'll try to find PTGui and see how my G5 likes it.  DH Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guy_mancuso Posted January 30, 2007 Share #32 Â Posted January 30, 2007 I agree with Sean here until 1.10 comes out this cyan correction in PS is really a PITA and not very accurate like i just did becuase i can't repeat it. Plus it is extra steps. Hopefully 1.10 will cover down to the 15mm and if made for the WATE than that would be a huge plus if you can use it on the Zeiss 15mm. This is what we are all hoping for maybe not get all the extra functions but this one is the biggy. The profiles from Edmund are also very nice and encourage folks to try them, really this is the only major hurdle left is the cyan cast Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhoelscher Posted January 30, 2007 Share #33 Â Posted January 30, 2007 Also, not that it hasn't been said a million times already, but because of self-coding issues like with this Zeiss 15mm's bayonet screws, we sure need Leica to put in a menu for us to pick lens/focal length for the corrections .... Â Maybe ... just maybe they'll allow it for the WATE at least so that you can pick the aperture - although the blue dot estimation may be good enough ... Â DH Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhoelscher Posted January 31, 2007 Share #34 Â Posted January 31, 2007 I'd narrow things down by controlling some variables so that you can see what's going on. First I'd shoot the tests with a WhiBal card so that you can be sure the WB is dead on. ... Â Hi Sean! Â This shot was manual-white balanced with an expodisc with the 486 filter on .. But since you mention the WhiBal card, I have a question for you .... Â Wouldn't you have to be extra, extra careful to have the WhiBal card ONLY in the EXACT center of the frame to correctly white balance? If you were off even a little, then the white of the card would be contaminated by the famous Sean Reid Cyan Drift would it not? Â And then your WhiBal effort would be corrupted, as it were? Do I need to change lenses to say, the 75mm to take the WhiBal picture so that there would be no SRCD ?????? Â Yikes, Â DH Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodyspedden Posted January 31, 2007 Share #35  Posted January 31, 2007 Michael just reviewed the ZM15 on Luminous-Landscape. It's a gorgeous lens, but ridiculously large and spectacularly expensive. Zeiss M-Mount Lenses  Do you *really* need that extra 5-10% of quality over the CV? My suggestion is to buy the CV and see if it falls short of your needs. I doubt it will.  The WA Tri-Elmar is a lot more lens for the money than the ZM15. It's also a lot smaller than the ZM15 which really is big.  I would add that the 15 f2.8 will not give you anything like the shallow DOF effect of the 50mm Noctilux, so don't let that influence you. Moreover, the ZM15 is not rangefinder coupled (unforgiveable at the price) so it's a big hit-and-miss wide-open on an M8.  - N.  Now you want to talk about big. Just for giggles I used the R 15 3.5 on the M8 using the Novoflex adapter. So for all intents and purposes it is very much like the Zeiss 2,8 albeit even larger. Of course this also required zone focusing but I just wanted to see what could be done with a very high quality wide on the M8.  The results were very good indeed. It was good wide open and extremely good at 5.6 and 8.0. The DOF is spectacular so I found that to be a non issue. Frankly, if I needed to shoot this wide a large percentage of the time I would probably use the WATE just because of physical size. But if you don't mind the size and weight the R 15 does a wonderful job and I am sure the new Zeiss 15 is even better. Lots of dough though for what usually is a seldom used focal length IMO  Woody Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean_reid Posted January 31, 2007 Share #36  Posted January 31, 2007 Hi Sean! This shot was manual-white balanced with an expodisc with the 486 filter on .. But since you mention the WhiBal card, I have a question for you ....  Wouldn't you have to be extra, extra careful to have the WhiBal card ONLY in the EXACT center of the frame to correctly white balance? If you were off even a little, then the white of the card would be contaminated by the famous Sean Reid Cyan Drift would it not?  And then your WhiBal effort would be corrupted, as it were? Do I need to change lenses to say, the 75mm to take the WhiBal picture so that there would be no SRCD ??????  Yikes,  DH  Hi David,  It doesn't have to be perfectly on center but it does need to be in the central area of the frame. The thrust of your point is correct, though. I've never used the Expodisc, is it color-neutral? For critical color work, I shoot a new WhiBal frame with every lens change even if the lighting itself has not changed.  Cheers,  Sean Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvaubel Posted January 31, 2007 Share #37 Â Posted January 31, 2007 Hey, it seems to me that the VC 15mm does not have nearly the problem with "cyan drift" that the Zeiss does. In fact, most of the 15mm Heliar pictures that I have seen looked OK without any filter. Â Rex Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhoelscher Posted January 31, 2007 Share #38 Â Posted January 31, 2007 ... I've never used the Expodisc, is it color-neutral? For critical color work, I shoot a new WhiBal frame with every lens change even if the lighting itself has not changed. Â I think it's meant to be color neutral. Looks just like a piece of white translucent plexiglas to me. Â I guess it wouldn't help to shoot a 75mm cron WhiBal shot to WB a Zeiss 15mm distagon shot, 'cause these two lenses probably have different color transmission characteristics (fingerprint?), huh? Â DH Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhoelscher Posted January 31, 2007 Share #39 Â Posted January 31, 2007 Hey, it seems to me that the VC 15mm does not have nearly the problem with "cyan drift" that the Zeiss does. Â Hi Rex! Â Have you had a chance to use this lens with a 486 filter? It'd be very interesting to compare the levels of SRCD ... Â DH Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grantray Posted January 31, 2007 Share #40 Â Posted January 31, 2007 okay the cyan i used a airbrush at very low percentage than used color dodge and picked a pantone magenta color and airbrushed a little to take out some cyan from the cast. Â Also, make corner selections, create a new layer(s) via copy, use Selective Color to counter the cyan, tweak opacity of the new layer, feather the edges. Â Here's the best part: write everything down. And when you get what you want, do it again and record as an automated action. Label the action according to the lens used, and the problem goes away with the click of a button for all future shots. Â Time intensive? Unacceptable, you say? No more so than creating a print process is a traditional darkroom. Â -grant Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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