ChiILX1 Posted March 18, 2011 Share #1 Â Posted March 18, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) I just bought a Leicameter M and it only goes up to 200 ASA film speed. I usually shoot 400. How do I adjust this? I noticed a functional screw on the bottom that is likely for this purpose. Â Sorry if this has already been answered. Trying to search on this forum isn't the easiest thing. Â Thanks! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted March 18, 2011 Posted March 18, 2011 Hi ChiILX1, Take a look here Leicameter M ASA adjust?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
pico Posted March 18, 2011 Share #2 Â Posted March 18, 2011 The screw at the bottom is for zeroing the needle at zero. You adjust that with something blocking the cell. Â Are you sure there is no 400? No DIN 28? Anyway, you can mark your own 400 speed. Turn to 200. Take any position on the read-out and choose the next higher (numerical) F-stop or one shutter speed faster. There is where 400 should be. Mark it with a scratch filled in with a Sharpie. Below is one that has 400, but shows where it would be with the 200 scale. Â Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChiILX1 Posted March 25, 2011 Author Share #3  Posted March 25, 2011 Thanks-- but mine doesn't work like that. It won't actually turn past 200 so marking past it won't do anything. Whatever adjustment I make, 200 will have to actually become 400.  It's a Leicameter M (with the flip up door) Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/146590-leicameter-m-asa-adjust/?do=findComment&comment=1625143'>More sharing options...
thomasw_ Posted March 25, 2011 Share #4 Â Posted March 25, 2011 i'd recommend a small handheld meter over any meter that adds bulk to a M. Just take a few meter readings before you start, then put it away. no added bulk to the M that can distract you into thinking that every shot requires a new reading. the newer meters are smaller, use more convenient batteries and tend to be more sensitive in lower light. my favourite is the sekonic l-308s, but the l208 or gossen digisix are both reliable, compact light meters, too. the key here is that you can pocket them easily to keep them out of your way once they have done their work. ymmv Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
giordano Posted March 25, 2011 Share #5 Â Posted March 25, 2011 Just take a few meter readings before you start, then put it away. Â I guess you never use reversal film in difficult light. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
giordano Posted March 25, 2011 Share #6 Â Posted March 25, 2011 Thanks-- but mine doesn't work like that. It won't actually turn past 200 so marking past it won't do anything. Whatever adjustment I make, 200 will have to actually become 400. Â To do that you'd somehow have to make the meter one stop more sensitive, which basically means doubling the size of the photocell - not very practical. Otherwise you can in principle adjust the galvanometer so it moves "one stop" further for any given level of light, at the cost of at least one stop of usable sensitivity at the low-light end of the scale. Â But that won't be easy. The adjustment screw you mention is probably to adjust the zero position of the galvanometer; but as you can see, the meter needle doesn't move by a constant angle for each one-stop change in the light, so you can't simply adjust that by "one stop". You'd also need to adjust the tension of the coil spring in the galvanometer, testing at various light levels against a reference meter until you got it right. Â The simplest approach would be to dismantle the calculator dial and see if it's possible to lengthen the groove that limits the travel of the film speed scale by enough to get to 400 or even 800. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChiILX1 Posted March 25, 2011 Author Share #7 Â Posted March 25, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Thanks everyone. Â I don't understand one thing- there was apparently no film above ISO 200 in the year 195x? I thought this would be simple... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted March 25, 2011 Share #8 Â Posted March 25, 2011 Just set it to 200, and any reading you get you can either close down one stop or increase the shutter speed by one stop. Â It is unlikely the meter is accurate anyway. Selenium cells don't age well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubice Posted March 25, 2011 Share #9  Posted March 25, 2011 Pico beat me to it.... That is the simplest cure.  The original Leicameter M only went up to 200 ASA since there were no films more sensitive than that in the early - mid 1950's. Kodachrome was 12 ASA! Tri-X did not exist yet and the fastest film IIRC was a Super XX-Pan, at 200 ASA.  Better and more accurate choice would have been a Leicameter MR but, even that has issues - battery availability. The MR can be re-calibrated for a different non-Mercury battery but that adds cost and you still have a meter that is at least 30 years old.  I would recommend a small hand-held meter or, the latest Voigtländer VC II meter, which will also slide into the accessory shoe. Not cheap, but small and accurate: Voigtlander VC II  Best,  Jan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChiILX1 Posted March 25, 2011 Author Share #10 Â Posted March 25, 2011 Thanks guys! I will adjust 1 stop. Â It is unlikely the meter is accurate anyway. Selenium cells don't age well. Better and more accurate choice would have been a Leicameter MR but, even that has issues - battery availability. The MR can be re-calibrated for a different non-Mercury battery but that adds cost and you still have a meter that is at least 30 years old. Â I will eventually be taking the lightmeter, and an M2 I have yet to find/buy, into an extremely rural area for over a year's worth of ethnographic fieldwork. I wanted to completely eliminate batteries from the equation due to concerns over replacing or recharging them, and humidity erosion. That's why I needed to get an M2 (which is cheaper than an M3) and this particular lightmeter was the best, that didn't have a battery, that I could find. Â I've actually checked it's accuracy with my X1 and it's dead-on accurate! I feel privileged now knowing they age poorly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotone Posted March 26, 2011 Share #11  Posted March 26, 2011  I've actually checked it's accuracy with my X1 and it's dead-on accurate! I feel privileged now knowing they age poorly.  I've recently bought a Leicameter MS and it too is pretty accurate according to my Nikon digital camera however you should really take a copy of this with you  Ultimate Exposure Computer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOUG66 Posted March 27, 2011 Share #12 Â Posted March 27, 2011 Hi, I have a Leica MR meter which I have canabilised for parts to keep another MR meter working. I can give you the two scales from it if they will fit your meter. Send me a PM with your postal address if you are interested. Doug. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChiILX1 Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share #13 Â Posted March 29, 2011 Thanks! If you were talking to me though I don't think I need it. I will just adjust one stop. Thanks again! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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