albertknappmd Posted January 9, 2011 Share #1 Posted January 9, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) I am intrigued by the technique of "painting with light" but have not been able to ascertain the power (in lumens) needed for such a project. I realize that there are many variables that obviously come into play such as distance, haze etc... but can you give me an idea as to the best sarting point lumen-wise? Many thanks, Albert:):) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 9, 2011 Posted January 9, 2011 Hi albertknappmd, Take a look here Painting with a flashlight. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
jan_brittenson Posted January 9, 2011 Share #2 Posted January 9, 2011 Depends on the distance to the subject... However, it doesn't really need all that much; almost any flashlight will work fine within 15' or so. You'll most likely be stopping down to f/8-f/16 to avoid overexposure. I'd strongly recommend an LED light; they tend to be closer to 4500K with a neutral green, which produces better results than halogen or incandescent. I used the same LED headlamp I used to hike out to some temples in Cambodia pre-dawn recently and it worked great. So I think almost any LED headlamp or flashlight will work just fine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckw Posted January 9, 2011 Share #3 Posted January 9, 2011 I agree with the post immediately above. Basically, lumens do not matter that much. Painting with light is pretty much trial and error with a very narrow beamed low power flashlight taking obviously longer to paint the scene than a very high power flood light. The trial and error approach is certainly much easier when shooting with a digital camera where the results of each attempt can be immediately assessed. If shooting in a very dark area with little or no ambient light the shutter can be left open for very long periods of time while you happily paint away with a low power flashlight. If ambient light is present that has to be considered in determining how much time you have to paint. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted January 9, 2011 Share #4 Posted January 9, 2011 Get a base exposure by using an incident light meter at the subject. Paint over the sensor for one second and read out the f-stop for a one-second exposure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
albertknappmd Posted January 9, 2011 Author Share #5 Posted January 9, 2011 Thank you all! Will start practising in the spring! Albert Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPH1962 Posted January 9, 2011 Share #6 Posted January 9, 2011 that technique has been widely used in professional studio photography some 15 to 20 years ago.... one of the pioneers has been a guy called aaron jones with a selfdevelopped tool called hosemaster... there where some copies around, even one using a stoboscopic flash device (broncolor lightbrush).... haver fun! rgds JPH Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted January 9, 2011 Share #7 Posted January 9, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) that technique has been widely used in professional studio photography some 15 to 20 years ago.... one of the pioneers has been a guy called aaron jones with a selfdevelopped tool called hosemaster... there where some copies around, even one using a stoboscopic flash device (broncolor lightbrush).... Yes! Calumet Photo still sells a version of it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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