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Bmorena

To modify a 40 summicron

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Your solution for the 35mm frames when using the 40 Cron C isn't needed. The 40 on the CL was the standard lens and the viewfinder for that camera didn't go below that and the 40mm lines are fixed, always showing, just like the 50mm lines on the M3. So no matter what you do to the mount lug if you used that lens on a CL the 40mm lines are still there. On all other M's, that have 35mm frames, if you leave the mount lug alone it brings up the 50mm lines which is farther away from the focal length of the lens then 35 frames are. And with your solution there is a possibility of bending the frame lever.

 

Quit foolish IMHO.

 

That is exactly what the solution is for, to bring up 35 mm frames iso 50 frames on M2 or M8. On the CL I do not need it.

 

Concerning the possibility of bending the lever, this is non-existent if you do it right. Will van Manen confirmed it is a harmless solution, and I trust him completely on these technical matters. Of course you need to choose the thickness of the lock so that it is just thick enough to hold the lever.

 

@jaap

Maybe I am too new to rangefinders to appreciate the frame choice levers function for now. At the moment I rarely use it. One reason might be that my choice of lenses is limited: 40 or 90, that's it

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Yes, but only with original M8 frames, with updated frames it will be like 110% on closeup, until 1,2m.

Thank you so do you think 50mm frame lines would be more accurate for close-ups on the M8.2?

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I finally got my hands on a mint Leitz 40mm 2.0 Summicron-C at 300€

I ´Dremel` coded the 40/2 like a pre-asph 35/2 IV and cut the mount to bring up the 35mm framelines.

 

Took out the glass of a 39mm Leica UVIR filter, sanded the diameter of the filter glass down a bit and superglued it to the inside of the original rubber hood.

Took about 20 min.

 

Works beautiful on my full upgraded M8, framing is slightly tight, not an issue at all, even close up is ok IMHO

 

The pictures are very good, sharp, nice color transitions and very nice Bokeh indeed, Capture One processing and full control is established over moire and vignetting which are the only small nitpicks with this very light and compact setup

 

Current to go kit also includes: CV 90/3.5 APO Lanthar and ZM 28/2.8 Biogon all three go nicely hand in hand, very similar drawing/footprint from these lenses.

Other lenses, CV 15/4.5, 24/2.8 Asph, 35/1.4 Asph I, 50/2.0, 70/2.0 Asph

 

Thanks for all the good useful tips here on the site!

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BTW My copy is definitely not sharp in the corners not even at 5.6, only the central area is sharp, so it's mostly for 'portrait' type shooting.

Edited by Erik Gunst Lund

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I've been using a 40mm summicron almost exclusively for years now on my M8. I did the filing modification which takes 5 minutes. The framelines are near perfect at 35mm - A real 'fit and forget' high quality compact and cheap lens for the M8. Never had any vignetting.

 

Now, just go shoot!

 

Graeme

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BTW My copy is definitely not sharp in the corners not even at 5.6, only the central area is sharp, so it's mostly for 'portrait' type shooting.

 

If Summicron-C is not sharp corner to corner even at f2.0, there is a problem with the lens.

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If Summicron-C is not sharp corner to corner even at f2.0, there is a problem with the lens.

 

The lens picks up sharpness as it is stopped down like all lenses, peak center sharpness is at 4.0 to 5.6 further at 8.0 up to 11 the corners picks up.

Both samples I have used are identical in performance.

Sure it's a wonderfull and most usefull lens even at 2.0 but looking critical the corners,,, not as sharp as the centre IMHO

I will state; if your centre is as unsharp as the corners, then there is a problem with the lens ;-)

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BTW My copy is definitely not sharp in the corners not even at 5.6, only the central area is sharp, so it's mostly for 'portrait' type shooting.

You mean on the M8?

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How did you code your lens? I use the 40/2 with my R-D1s the microlenses of which are not as good as Leica's and i've never seen significant smoothness in the angles so far.

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Coded the 40/2 like a pre-asph 35/2 IV and cut the mount to bring up the 35mm framelines.

I'm not saying it's soft, it's just not sharp like the 35mm 1.4 Asph or the 28mm 2.8 ZM in the corners at 5.6

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Well, mine does - obviously the M8 is less affected than the M9, but still... The Summilux pre-asph coding solves the problem, though.

I have been unable to find this code? seems to me from posts above that you refer to 35mm pre-asph Summilux?

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It can only be selected manually on the M9. For mount coding we are stuck with the old Summicron 35 code, which is not bad either.

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...I'm not saying it's soft, it's just not sharp like the 35mm 1.4 Asph or the 28mm 2.8 ZM in the corners at 5.6

It is not as sharp as some asph lenses of course but contrary to your experience i don't see significant difference between the center and the corners.

Here at f/5.6 or f/8 (garden) and f/2.8 (clock).

Just shot the latter for you.

http://tinyurl.com/6kmje43

http://tinyurl.com/6zwltwe

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The garden seems to have the softer corners, upper left seems to me to be the case, a 100% crop would tell.

The clock, impossible to tell since the plane of the target is not parallel to the plane of sharpness, so no detail in the corners are sharp at all,,,

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